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Laying a bathtub, a bidet and a sink

If the installation of the sanitary elements poses in general few technical problems, the entourage of a bath implies some additional work of masonry. Be careful not to damage the walls of the walls by making the necessary solders for the connections.

Necessary material

  • Bubble level
  • Screwdriver
  • Knife to coat
  • Plaster trough
  • Cellular concrete saw
  • Plasterer's trowel
  • Metal saw
  • Electric drill
  • Oxybutane blowtorch
  • Plaster
  • Folding Meter
  • Teflon
  • Special glue for PVC
  • Pickling paste
  • Steel wool
  • Insulating square

Steps

  1. Bathtub: preparation of the installation
  2. Bathtub: connection and evacuation
  3. Bathtub: installation and taps
  4. Bathtub: dressing
  5. Bidet: connection and evacuation
  6. Bidet: fixing
  7. Washbasin: installation and connection

Bathtub: preparation of the installation

A threaded rod allows the proper installation of the feet

A threaded rod allows the proper installation of the feet

1. Secure the feet of the bath by tightening the nut with a wrench. The feet of this bathtub are regulated by means of a threaded rod. This sanitary element, like the others, is installed before laying the tiles. The traditional bathtubs, cast iron, are quite heavy. Filled (100 or 150 I of water), they represent a fairly significant weight. We must therefore ensure that the support can support them: beware of old floors, for example.

A flexible metal hose connects the bung to the overflow

A flexible metal hose connects the bung to the overflow

2. The drain, which is screwed onto the drain hole of the bath, is connected to the overflow by a flexible metal hose. The black conduit contains the valve control cable of the plug. Screw the plug tightly. A piece of Teflon glued to the thread (or bead) seals. Interconnect, before screwing, a fiber joint.

The bathtub is placed on cleats to prevent damage

The bathtub is placed on cleats to prevent damage

3. Install the overflow by connecting the flexible hose that opens into the drain. Place the tub on wooden battens to avoid bumping during assembly. Work carefully and be careful not to damage the enamel with an unfortunate shock.

The siphon is fixed with a nut

The siphon is fixed with a nut

4. Put the siphon in the bathtub; it is fixed by screwing a nut (beaten collar). A fiber joint, inserted, ensures the seal. Place Teflon on the thread to reinforce it.

Bathtub: connection and evacuation

The handles are fixed with a simple screw

The handles are fixed with a simple screw

5. Fit the handles: they are fixed with a screw. These chrome handles, very useful (especially for the elderly), can get up more easily, without slipping (the statistics indicate that accidents, quite numerous, sometimes prove serious).

The proper functioning of the flap is essential

The proper functioning of the flap is essential

6. Install the bung cover and make sure it is working properly. The automatically controlled valve is more practical than the simple rubber valve held by a chain. The valve assembly, plug and siphon, must be kept in good condition. The gate of the bung serves to retain the detritus (hair in particular) that may block the evacuation. The siphon model used here in S is very simple.

The overflow cover is also fixed by screwing

The overflow cover is also fixed by screwing

7. Fit the lid of the overflow hole by screwing it in place. This prevents the bath from overflowing, but if the flow of the faucets is too strong, the overflow can not provide sufficient drainage and the bath overflows.

PVC pipes are connected to the evacuation by gluing

PVC pipes are connected to the evacuation by gluing

8. The connection to the exhaust duct is via a PVC tube of the same diameter. The PVC pipes and the elbow fittings used are glued together (special glue for PVC). Degrease and clean the parts to be assembled first, to prepare them.

Bathtub: installation and taps

Check horizontality when adjusting feet

Check horizontality when adjusting feet

9. Adjust the height of the tub feet so that it is perfectly level. Place a bubble level on the rim of the tub and turn the adjusting bolts with a wrench. Adjusting the feet also changes the height of a bathtub.

Fiber seals strengthen the tightness

Fiber seals strengthen the tightness

10. Temporarily put the faucets in place after removing the flanges. The mixer installed here provides water at the desired temperature by adjusting the hot and cold water faucets. To seal, glue a piece of Teflon to the threads before screwing. Interconnect fiber joints to reinforce the tightness. The models of bath mixers offered by the manufacturers, very numerous, are suitable for different bathroom decorations (modern or style). The most commonly used mixer has two outlets (faucets and shower) and an inverter. Mixers, more sophisticated devices, allow to produce a constant temperature water by presetting. If you are installing a hand shower on the tub, consider a support system: a wall light, fixed or mobile (on a vertical rail), allows you to use the tub as a shower tray.

A thick plaster allows to fill the hole

A thick plaster allows to fill the hole

11. Fill plaster with the cut-out hole in the wall liner plate for the outlet of the hot and cold water supply lines. Prepare a thick plaster and apply it with a plaster knife.

Bathtub: dressing

Delimit the inspection hatch on the plaster tiles

Delimit the inspection hatch on the plaster tiles

12. The bath surround is done here with plaster tiles. A trap door must be provided to access the siphon of the bathtub after installation. Mark the location of this inspection hatch on the plaster tiles, on the side of the bathtub where the siphon is located.

Plaster tiles are fixed with a special glue

Plaster tiles are fixed with a special glue

13. Place the gypsum tiles on the floor after cutting them to size using a cellular concrete saw or a regular high-pitched saw. Apply special gypsum tile adhesive to the edges to make the connection between the tiles. Check the horizontality of the installation with the help of the bubble level. The ground layout of the tile placement facilitates installation. When the recess is finished, place the inspection door in the hole cut in the tiles.

The hatch is put in position before being covered with tiles

The hatch is put in position before being covered with tiles

14. This hatch can be simply embedded in the opening, or screwed on a wooden frame, or fixed with a magnet system. The hatch is then covered with tiles like plaster tiles.

Bidet: connection and evacuation

A silicone seal ensures the tightness

A silicone seal ensures the tightness

15. Secure the faucet (mixer) of the bidet. Tighten the large nut with a wrench. A silicone seal ensures the seal. The bidet must be connected to the hot and cold water pipes coming out of the wall and to the PVC exhaust duct.

The evacuation bung is then placed

The evacuation bung is then placed

16. Secure the bidet drain valve by screwing, after placing the gasket and Teflon onto the threads.

A plastic siphon will facilitate the draining

A plastic siphon will facilitate the draining

17. Screw the siphon off the bidet. The ring siphon used here, made of plastic, has the advantage of simply draining.

The flapper control is easily connected

The flapper control is easily connected

18. Then connect the valve plug to the bung valve.

Simple assembly ensures evacuation

Simple assembly ensures evacuation

19. The connection to the exhaust duct is through a PVC pipe and an elbow fitting. Cut out a piece of PVC, put it in place and check the fitting correction.

Bidet: fixing

Anchoring requires precise marking

Anchoring requires precise marking

20. The bidet attaches to the floor after anchoring. Drill holes with the power drill, after locating their location on the screed by drawing the shape of the bidet foot.

Laying a bathtub, a bidet and a sink: bathtub

21. Permanently attach the bidet to the floor after pegging the holes. Use chrome-plated screws, and tighten securely with a screwdriver. Assemble the PVC elbow fitting and vent pipe with special PVC glue.

Chrome screws secure

Supply tubes are connected by stirring

Supply tubes are connected by stirring

22. Connect the copper supply tubes to the brazed fitting. Use an oxybutane torch to solder to silver. Protect the wall lining so it does not burn by placing an insulating flame shield against the wall. Copper tubes of the same diameter are connected using a connection sleeve. Abrasez the parts to assemble, coat them with a layer of stripping paste, then push the sleeve and heat the torch. Remember to protect your eyes with special glasses and beware of the direction of the torch flame: you may burn the plastic siphon of the bidet or damage the PVC pipe. Approach the solder bar as soon as the metal is hot enough. The supply hoses are connected to the taps with flanged collar or bicone connection.

The Coxynel torch facilitates the operation

The Coxynel torch facilitates the operation

23. Brazing copper tubes is easy with a newer device, the oxybutane Coxynel torch. It lights up very easily, with oxygen and butane flow rates preset at the factory. Simply flip the handle, after unlocking the safety catch, and present a lighter or a match.

The Coxynel torch is for brazing or welding

The Coxynel torch is for brazing or welding

24. The Coxynel torch heats a pipe for annealing, brazing or welding. Its essential qualities are the reduced weight (5 kg) and the presetting of the flow (a button makes it possible to modify the flow of butane to lengthen or to narrow the stinger). The flame of this device reaches more than 2800°; it is therefore a torch for brazing or soldering (if you only do tin welding, a soldering lamp is more than enough). It is suitable for work of average size (3/4 hours of autonomy in oxygen and 2 hours 30 in butane).

Washbasin: installation and connection

It is advisable to delimit the contours of the sink before drawing the points of attachment

It is advisable to delimit the contours of the sink before drawing the points of attachment

25. Drill the holes needed to hook the sink. Find their location precisely: place the sink in position against the wall and draw its outline with a felt pen. Draw a cross to mark the points of attachment and drill the plasterboard with a crankshaft.

The sink connects identically to the bidet

The sink connects identically to the bidet

26. The connection to the exhaust duct is made using PVC elements (elbow fittings), which are assembled by gluing. The sink has a siphon ring, like the bidet. A metal rod controls the valve of the bung. The connection to the cold water supply pipes is made by silver brazing, as for the other elements of this bathroom. At the end of the assembly, set up the column concealing the piping.

On the same topic

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    • The renovation of a bathtub in 5 questions
    • Large vertical pipe in the toilet: can it be removed?
    • Bathroom in a convertible attic
  • DIY tips
    • The rules to follow to design your bathroom
    • Choosing the bathroom fixtures of your bathroom
    • Single shower column
    • Bathtub taps
    • How do thermostatic valves work?
    • Washbasin taps
    • The tap and the shut-off valves
    • The types of shower head
    • Moldy joints around a sink or bathtub
    • How to install a bathtub?
    • Tips and steps to renovate a bathtub
    • PER fittings: make a seamless plumbing installation
    • PVC-C: Plumbing without a torch
    • How to install a sink block?
    • Installation of a towel radiator
    • Using a blowtorch
    • How to create a bathroom in a closet?
    • How to fix a bath screen?
    • Tile of a bathroom
    • Installation of buried PVC pipes
    • PVC evacuation assembly
    • How to install and connect a sink?
    • Use of dual connectors for a plumbing installation
    • Make his fittings by flanged collar
    • How to fix accessories on tiles?
    • Dressing a bathtub

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