- Necessary material
- A backsplash and a facade
- Perfect support required
- Fixing backsplashes
- Info for DIYers
- Electrical connections
- Adding light strips
- Info for DIYers
- DIY tips
- Turning on the baseboards
Powered by centralized control, these new generation electric baseboard heaters adapt their power to the needs of each room and in real time. And they can enlighten!
- Wire stripper
- Electrician's screwdriver
- Material detector
- Perforator and drills
- Soldering iron
- Thermal cleaner
- Baseboard heaters
- 3 x 2.5 mm single strand cable2
- 1.5 mm single conductors2
- 1 mm stranded conductors2
- Heat Shrink Tubing
- Shims of various thickness (if necessary)
- Ø 6 mm dowels and bolts TF Ø 4 x 50 mm
- EMS 60 adhesive sealant
- Tin solder
Cost: from € 220 per meter (excluding regulation)
Time: 10 to 20 m of laying per day (depending on the configuration of the room, the condition of the walls and the floor)
A heating baseboard distributes heat along the entire length of the wall at its lowest point, creating a rising wall along the wall. Depending on the manufacturer of the model installed here (Écomatic), this slow convection allows the wall to accumulate heat and radiate it back.
A backsplash and a facade
Made to measure, baseboards are pre-cut at the factory and delivered numbered with an installation plan. Several skirting boards can be butted up to a maximum of 8 m from a power supply (flush-mounting box 10 cm from the finished floor).
The baseboards are composed of two elements: a backsplash and a facade. The splashback supports the heating element, the connection terminals and, if necessary, the control elements.
The laying can be done by gluing as here, but also by embedding.
Finally, the manufacturer offers LED lighting (optional).
Perfect support required
Although ready to install, these skirting boards can only be put in place on a prepared base: old skirting boards placed, holes covered and, if we consider a pose glued to the bottom of a wall upholstered, wallpaper removed on a height 14 cm.
The skirting boards must be supported on the ground over their entire length. Limited irregularities can be compensated with wedges.
On the other hand, marked slopes over long lengths or a non-rectilinear wall must be specified to the manufacturer to adapt the length of the baseboard segments accordingly.
- Made to measure at the factory, the skirting boards are delivered ready to install.
- Only the backsplashes are drilled (one Ø 8 mm hole at each end) for their fixing at the bottom of the walls.
- Finish by lightly milling the holes on the back of the backsplash.
- Unwrap the power cable (here led through the wall) about 20 cm with a cutter.
- Then pass the conductors through the grommet of the back splash.
- Present the backsplash in its place and ensure that it rests on the ground over its entire length.
- If this is not the case, add shims to non-contact locations.
- The backsplash always in its place, postpone the locations of the holes of the fixings on the wall.
- Remove the backrest to drill on the marks (Ø 6 mm) and push in the dowels.
- Apply glue dots every 30 cm or so on the back of the backsplash near the bottom edge.
- Then press the backrest firmly against the wall and engage the fixing screws in the dowels without blocking them.
- The baseboards expand on heating, those connected are to be separated by intervals of 3 to 5 mm.
- This expansion joint will be masked by covers.
Info for DIYers
Attention, also think of the expansion in the case of wall-to-wall installation.
Provide a vacuum of 3 to 5 mm at each end, just like the expansion joints made at the junction between two skirting boards.
- Cut 3 lengths of 10 to 12 cm into 1.5 mm² single conductors.
- Strip them and then engage them in the holes of the connection terminal blocks of the skirting boards.
- The neutral terminal is on the right, the earth in the center and the phase on the left.
- The connection to the ground must be connected to the facade.
- All elements of the plinth are pre-wired at the factory.
- On the supply side, the conductors arriving from the top are attached to their respective terminals.
Adding light strips
- Three transformers necessary for the operation of the LEDs are added to the original components.
- Their power supply is different from that of heating.
- Connect the transformers (red and white multi-strand) to the pending arrivals in a flush-mounted box.
- No dominoes, but fast connectors equipped with small levers.
- Attach the splashback, then bring the power supply leads to the transformers.
- Stripping them to engage them in the connectors connected to the terminal blocks of the transformers.
- Unroll the garland of leds from the opposite end to its power supply.
- Lay it out on the floor in front of the skirting boards.
- Once the garland is unwound to the desired length, strip the ends of the conductors.
- Etam the conductors to solder them to the ends of the wires (here red and black) coming from the power connectors of the LEDs.
- Before soldering the wires, insert 2 sections of heat shrink tubing.
- After welding, bring these sheaths to the parts to be insulated and heat them with a heat gun.
Info for DIYers
The establishment by gluing the backsplash is final, and if you want to integrate LED lighting, it can only intervene after the completion of all connections to the power cables.
It is important that baseboards be perfectly vertical to obtain perfect angles.
Compensate wall defects if it is not perfectly straight, with a corresponding glue thickness (EMS 60), at the top or bottom of the plate.
Screw in by checking the verticality and allow to dry 3/4 of an hour before putting up the facades.
Turning on the baseboards
- To glue the LEDs, remove them from their power supply by removing the adhesive pads on the back of the plates and apply them on the lower wing of the backsplash.
- Before installing the baseboard facades, test the lighting function.
- If everything works without problems, it's time to close the baseboards.
- Operate by nesting the facades at the bottom and striking small strokes along their entire length.
- The gap between the baseboards allows their expansion without deformation.
- It is masked by the connecting pieces that fit together, from below and from above.
- Place the FR3 probe at 1.50 m from the ground on a tempered wall, opposite the skirting boards. It measures the room temperature and the setting of the setpoint.