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Exterior Thermal Insulation (new) with mineral coating

External Thermal Insulation (ITE) is a thermal insulation process for homes and buildings that presents various embodiments with the use of various materials (insulation being most often in these systems, polystyrene in plates). This technique without cladding, can be integrated in new constructions or renovation of facades, with finishes of mineral coating. These types of implementation by building professionals, then have many similarities, the differences are most often on the specificity of materials (here, a mineral coating) used in making finishes.

Necessary material

  • Rope
  • Miter saw
  • 6 mm drill bit
  • Drill
  • Electric mixer
  • Tool for making rebates in polystyrene
  • Rule
  • Martea
  • Scratch ruler
  • Gratton
  • Abrasive trowel
  • Notched trowel
  • Smooth float
  • Builder's broom
  • Plastic putty in tube
  • Trowel

Steps

  1. Laying of support profiles
  2. Laying polystyrene plates
  3. Adjustments and cuts of polystyrene plates
  4. Reinforcement of the lower parts
  5. Application of the facade coating
  6. Façade finishes

Laying of support profiles

Draw a horizontal line on the base of the facades 15 cm from the highest point of the ground

Draw a horizontal line on the base of the facades 15 cm from the highest point of the ground

1. Draw a chalk line or a laser level, a horizontal line on the base of the facades 15 cm from the highest point of the ground. For balconies, terraces, stairs, this level of departure is reduced to 2 cm above ground level.

Make the miter cuts of the profiles to have more discreet connections

Make the miter cuts of the profiles to have more discreet connections

2. Make the miter cuts of the insulating material (polystyrene) support profiles for more discreet connections.

Press the dowels and leave a space of 2 to 3 mm between each profile

Press the dowels and leave a space of 2 to 3 mm between each profile

3. Position the profiles and drill with a Ø 6 mm drill bit to allow the pegs to pass through. The fastener must not be more than 5 cm apart from the end of each element. The space between each attachment must be 30 cm maximum. Push in the appropriate expansive plastic dowels and leave a 2 to 3 mm gap between each profile.

Laying polystyrene plates

Spread 8 sticks of glue on the polystyrene plates

Spread 8 sticks of glue on the polystyrene plates

1. Strike the adhesive plaster with 5 or 6 liters of water per 25 kg bag using a slow electric mixer (500 rpm).
• let stand 5 minutes. The bonding of the polystyrene sheets of 1 m x 0.50 m is made by 8 pads of this coating, evenly distributed on the insulating plate.
• the glue should not touch the edges to prevent backflow into the joints
• the panels are placed end to end in successive rows "way cut of stone", starting from the low level established by the starting section.

Continue laying the plates by squeezing them tightly

Continue laying the plates by squeezing them tightly

2. Install the following plates tightly together. Seams should be kept to a minimum to avoid thermal bridging and plate spectra.

Caulk with polystyrene boards or polyurethane foam in open joints

Caulk with polystyrene boards or polyurethane foam in open joints

3. In the case of open joints, caulk with polystyrene boards or polyurethane foam, never with underlay mortar or bonding mortar.

Ensure the flatness of the plates with a ruler

Ensure the flatness of the plates with a ruler

4. As you lay the plates, make sure you are flat by beating the plates with a shield or a ruler. Install the bottom and top plates with offset joints.

Adjustments and cuts of polystyrene plates

For berry angles cut the

For berry angles cut the "L" plates

1. For berry angles, prefer to cut the "L" plates, rather than making a joint to limit "mustache" cracks. In outbound or inbound corners, harp the plates. The plate joints must never coincide with the junctions of the profiles.

Make rabbets with an appropriate tool

Make rabbets with an appropriate tool

2. At the right angles of the hard points (window sill, wall return, balcony...), provide a reserve rebate on the plates for the realization of a caulking joint. Make rabbets with a suitable tool.

Sand the differences of flush of the plates with an abrasive trowel

Sand the differences of flush of the plates with an abrasive trowel

3. After the setting mortar dries and before peening, squeeze the differences in the outcropping of the plates with an abrasive trowel. Sanding is essential to reduce the risk of shaving light spectra and ensure regular consumption and distribution of the underlayment.

Reinforcement of the lower parts

Reinforce the lower parts by applying reinforced trellis

Reinforce the lower parts by applying reinforced trellis

1. To carry out the reinforcement of the low parts (according to the destination of the building):
Polystyrene is a fragile material without protection:
• apply the reinforced trellis 2 m high from the ground, embedded in a layer of undercoat, without overlapping between the layers, or turning on the corners
• In the case of façade basement that is not exposed to shocks and that is partly private, the reinforced mesh can be replaced by the standard glass fabric.

Protect raised edges with pre-interlocked corner strips

Protect raised edges with pre-interlocked corner strips

2. For the salient angles and the berries:
• all protruding edges must be protected with pre-interlocking corner strips inserted directly into the dough
• to reduce over-thickness, smooth glue by pressing on the edge of the wand

Marble strips of glass fabric in a layer of undercoat to reinforce the angles

Marble strips of glass fabric in a layer of undercoat to reinforce the angles

3. Reinforce all the corners of the racks by embedding oblique strips of glass fabric (30 x 30 cm minimum) in a layer of underlayment. Reinforce each junction of profiles (starting rails, corner profiles) by embedding reinforcing mesh strips (30 x 30 cm minimum) in a layer of underlayment.

Position the pre-stressed clipping profile on the outer flange of the starting rail

Position the pre-stressed clipping profile on the outer flange of the starting rail

4. Position the pre-tensioned clip-on profile on the outer flange of the starting rail, being careful not to make the starting rail junctions coincide with the clip-on profile junctions. Slip the glass lattice into a layer of undercoat.

Make miter cuts at 45° for the junctions of 2 chopsticks

Make miter cuts at 45° for the junctions of 2 chopsticks

5. A splitting of the plaster can be realized with special rods to limit the surfaces of application or to realize modenatures (change of color or finish):
• mark blue the retained pattern (lower edge of the splitter strips)
• attach staples (or nails) along the completed path leaving them over 20 cm
• Make miter cuts at 45° for the joints of 2 rods.

Walnuts chopsticks in a bead of plaster

Walnuts chopsticks in a bead of plaster

6. Make a bead of plaster along the path and then drown the chopsticks using the staples as a guide, as soon as the plaster has pulled, remove the staples.

Application of the facade coating

Apply the coating manually or using a spraying machine

Apply the coating manually or using a spraying machine

1. Preparation of the coating:
• this coating can be applied manually or using a spraying machine
• spoil the plaster with 4.5 to 5 liters of water per 20 kg bag for 1 to 2 minutes
• the mixing rate and mixing time must always be constant to avoid differences in hue.
Application of the coating:
• Cut the glass lattice strips in advance into lengths corresponding to a scaffold height.

Apply the first coating pass on a thickness of 6 to 7 mm

Apply the first coating pass on a thickness of 6 to 7 mm

2. After drying the bonding mortar, apply the first coat of plaster to a thickness of 6 to 7 mm at all points, erect but not smoothed.

Work by the verticals way

Work by the verticals way "wallpaper"

3. Work in progress by the vertical "wallpaper" way: be at a constant distance from the insulation and stay closer to the surface of this first pass. Let harden for 3 to 24 hours.

Façade finishes

Projection with the lance of a second pass for finiton scraped

Projection with the lance of a second pass for finiton scraped

1. For a scraped finish:
• apply a second pass of 8 to 9 mm in constant and regular thickness.
• as soon as the coating has hardened (12 to 24 hours after application), scrape the plaster with the ruler to scratch and finish with a gratton
• the minimum thickness after scraping must be 12 mm in all points and regular.

Rustic Finiton

Rustic Finiton

2. For a rustic finish:
• apply a second pass on 6 mm in constant and regular thickness
• let the draw and make the decorative pass from 3 to 4 mm by projecting the grain
• depending on the type of look you want, equip the nozzle with a nozzle of 10 or 12 mm in diameter
For a crushed rustic finish:
• pass on the ridges of the plaster still fresh, a plastic or stainless trowel

(photos / visuals: © Weber and Broutin, except special mention)

Exterior Thermal Insulation (new) with mineral coating: mineral

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