Insulate a casement window
And optionally, sealant cartridges with applicator gun and release strips, strips or insulating beads (rubber, foam, plastic) adhesive or non-adhesive, seals or metal profiles.
And if needed, a painter's knife, a fine paintbrush, a hacksaw, sanding paper, glue, staples, nails, a hammer or a stapler.
Insulating a window helps prevent unwanted air currents that seep through the frames and limit heat loss in winter. Insulating or caulking a window is as much a question of comfort as energy saving.
Be careful, for reasons of hygiene and safety, do not insulate the windows of a room that does not already have a ventilation system. Otherwise, you will shut off your primary source of air exchange and expose yourself to oxygen depletion and increased humidity in the surrounding air.
Preparatory step: clean the inside of the frame of the window to be insulated.
The first thing to do is of course to clean the surface on which you will apply or install the insulation system you have chosen. Take the opportunity to get rid of any old joints.
To do this, open the window flaps and wipe the uprights and the inside of the window frame with a wet sponge. Do not hesitate to use vinegar water or your usual cleaning product to properly degrease, especially if you plan to stick your joint. The glue will adhere only better. Dry the surface before starting.
In the case where your frame is painted and this paint flakes, it is better to carry out a small renovation by putting the wood bare because there also the adhesion of the joint would be too random. Then use a painter's knife to rub lightly to loosen paint chips that are ready to fall. Remove the rest of the paint by abrading with sanding paper and dusting.
Method 1: Shape a silicone sealant seal.
Install the cartridge into the applicator gun, unless you have a ready-to-use model with an integrated application system like this. Cut the plastic tip of the desired diameter to the cutter and corresponding to the width of the joint to be applied, depending on your window model.
This technique requires a little bit of skill in its realization but has the great advantage of being able to make a custom joint that matches the irregularities and small possible deformations of a frame. Depending on the type of windows and especially depending on the material in which it is designed, it is sometimes necessary to apply a product directly on the chassis to maximize its adhesion (refer to the instructions).
Apply the joint in a straight line by slowly moving the gun continuously and maintaining a steady pressure, so as to produce in a single gesture a perfectly formed joint over its entire length. To do this, hold your gun with both hands, one hand on the handle and the other hand holding the end of the cartridge. Proceed from one corner and stop only when the second is reached. Repeat this process three times to go around the chassis.
Once the joint is made unroll the demolding strip directly above, so as to cover it completely. For ease, cut the band at the cutter when you reach a corner to move from a vertical axis to a horizontal axis and vice versa.
Then close the window so that the silicone seal can mold perfectly inside and wait at least three hours before being able to open it again. The release strip will be removed after 24 hours.
Method 2: Lay an insulating bead.
The beads or strips of insulating joints may be of foam, rubber or plastic. The foam beads generally have a shorter life span than their congeners because they are more fragile and are resistant to the alternation compression decompression generated by the opening and closing of the window.
Depending on the model, these beads are either self-adhesive or glue, staple or nail. The simplest applications are the beads with adhesive strips. Indeed, to put in place you just remove the protective film that covers the adhesive and put it. In the photos below, you can see on the left a rubber seal placed on a PVC window and, on the right, a self-adhesive foam tape ready to be put on.
Then move forward gradually removing the film and plating with your other hand the tape on the chassis to adhere under this slight pressure. You must then respect the natural shape of the bead and do not stretch it by pulling it during the installation. For the passage of the corners, cut the end of the band to the cutter in straight section.
For the beads to be glued, initiate your work by spreading with a fine brush a layer of glue either directly on the back of your band, on the frame, or on both. Carry out the same procedure, press lightly and without pulling. Allow time to glue before closing the window. Do the same for the staple or nail rolls by regularly placing a staple or nail through the body of the bead to attach it to the wooden frame of the window. The latter type of insulating gasket is therefore not applicable on PVC windows.
Method 3: install a metal profile.
Metal profile insulation joints are without a doubt the ones with the greatest compressive strength and therefore the longest life. Their structure is indeed flexible enough to tilt, by a spring effect, under the wing when the window is closed and thus block the passage of air. These models adapt to all types of windows and have the advantage of participating in addition to the sound insulation of the room.
Their pose is however more complex. You must first determine the measurement of horizontal and vertical joints to cut custom sections. Then bevel their ends so that they can form the end-to-end corners. This type of joint must be placed straight and sometimes requires planing the frame of the window. This is one of the reasons why its implementation is mostly reserved for professionals. The final fixing of the profile, or metal seal, is ensured by a series of nails planted at regular intervals.