- Difficulty - Cost: - Time - Equipment to insulate your home from the outside
- Isolate without depositing the dubbing of a house
- You want to insulate your attic at € 1?
- Insulate wall-coats with facing plaster
- Three points to deal with when isolated from the outside
- Do it yourself or have your insulation done externally?
- 1 Preparation of the tables for the installation of the ITE
- Cutting the profiles
- 2 Setting up the hardware store
- Info + to prepare the installation of external thermal insulation (ITE)
- 3 Laying ITE sheets in expanded polystyrene
- 4 Modification of roof shores
- 5 Application of the plaster
- Supplies for thermal insulation from the outside (ITE)
Thermal insulation from the outside is the best way to get the most effective protection... In renovation, it also helps give a facelift to the facade!
Difficulty - Cost: - Time - Equipment to insulate your home from the outside
Cost: 170 to 200 € / m2 wall surface (installation included)
Time: 1 to 2 weeks
- heel square,
- grinder Ø 115 or 125 mm,
- rivet and cutting pliers,
- scaffolding (rental)...
Isolate without depositing the dubbing of a house
Built in 1978, this Phoenix house is made from a metal frame supporting concrete fillings that constitute the outer walls. Insulating, it can not be improved from the inside without removing all the dubbing.
The best solution is then to carry out a thermal insulation from the outside (ITE).
You want to insulate your attic at € 1?
Test your eligibility by filling out the form below:
Insulate wall-coats with facing plaster
Of the three types of existing ITE - plaster, cladding or cladding (System D, n° 761, June 2009) - this is the first solution that has been chosen.
It consists of fixing expanded or graphitized polystyrene sheets (80 to 120 mm thick), then covered with a coating in two or three layers with reinforcement.
Simple in principle, the implementation of an ETI nevertheless includes specific points specified in the technical specifications nº 3035 of April 1998, the Scientific and Technical Center for Building (Cstb). Their treatment must be rigorous because it determines the performance and durability of the structure.
Three points to deal with when isolated from the outside
- When joinery is conserved, the paintings can be re-finished (System D, n° 778, November 2010) or, as here, dressed with special profiles in thermo-lacquered aluminum.
- More traditional, the widening of the banks of roof supposes to unclog a part of the cover in order to reach the steel angles which connect the farms of the frame.
- The angles are extended with sections of cleats screwed from underneath and the half-roof tiles replaced by larger equivalents. For their part, the gutters must also be modified: the gutters being extended at both ends and the descents, repositioned
Do it yourself or have your insulation done externally?
The components of an ITE come in the form of "systems" (glue, dowels, various profiles, insulators, coatings, reinforcements). Intended for professionals, these products are distributed by traders and very little present in DIY superstores.
They must never be mixed from one manufacturer to another.
For a professional, this is one of the conditions to be met to guarantee his work. For a do-it-yourselfer, this is the best way to avoid future disturbances with serious consequences (tearing off the insulation, detachment of the coating, etc.).
It is also necessary to rent scaffolding and to be helped by one or two people at least during the finishing that must be carried out without interruption for each facade.
To these constraints is added the impossibility of benefiting from the sustainable development tax credit or a zero-rate eco-loan. (Points Renovation info service have been set up to advise you on your work and their financing.Rendezvise on Rénovation Info Service, or call the azure number 0810 140 240 (price of a local call).
Read also the booklet of the Ademe that expends housing financial aid: how to finance the energy performance of your home? (2014 edition).
1 Preparation of the tables for the installation of the ITE
- At the top of the table, fit the upper trim (cut at the ends) between the original profile and its fixing angle.
- Stall it with the help of stainless steel knives.
- In spite of a precise measurement of dimensions, it is sometimes necessary to rectify the skins in length and to cut a wing with the saber saw (more practical than a hacksaw).
- Always follow the elements by hitting the mallet on a martyr hold.
- The bay supports must also be widened, clean them briefly and then put a bead of polyurethane sealant-glue to fix the new support flaps.
- Present the side dressings.
- Then carefully check their overflow: they should be flush with the surface of the insulation.
- If the overhang is too great, reduce the profiles in width and length with a table saw (the blade guard has been removed for the picture).
- The new cladding is screwed by its rear wing to the edge of the original cladding (TR sheet screw Ø 4 x 15 mm).
- Secure them by riveting them.
Cutting the profiles
- To shorten most profiles to exact dimensions, a radial miter saw is ideally suited (cutting length: 305 mm).
- Only very short cuts are made with a jigsaw.
2 Setting up the hardware store
- Shutters in place, postpone the position of the hinges on the wing of the skins.
- Draw the two marks (lower and upper).
- Drill Ø 6 holes between these two marks.
- Gather the holes with the saw and correct the cut with the file.
- Slide the hinge, mark the Ø 6 holes to be drilled.
- Block the 2 screws of the hinge and bolt the reinforcement.
- Drill a Ø 6 hole in the masonry with the perforator.
- Thread and screw the reinforcement with a TFØ 5 x 60 bolt.
- Close the shutters to locate the position of the lower and upper stops.
- Screw them in and adjust their position.
- The old shutter stops are here replaced by equivalents whose threaded rod is longer.
- Screw them into the dowels, lock their nut but do not adjust the stops until the end of the project.
Info + to prepare the installation of external thermal insulation (ITE)
- To fill any space between the reinforcement pad and the masonry, insert a plastic wedge between the tab and the wall, before screwing.
3 Laying ITE sheets in expanded polystyrene
- Align the starter strip with a horizontal mark, drawn here at 40 cm from the ground.
- Drill the holes of the fasteners through the profile (more than 10 cm from the corner).
- Use ankles to hit.
- On these profiles, lay the plates starting at an angle.
- Grooved, they are held by plastic profiles.
- Re-cut them in series at the beginning of the worksite and fix them with hitting pins.
- The original air intakes must not be obstructed by the insulation.
- Mark their locations on the plates, and cut them out.
- Fasten the insulating plates using horizontal profiles.
- Lay and fix each row before starting the next.
- As everywhere else, for better cohesion, the vertical joints must also be crossed along the edges.
- This requires cutting some plates with a handsaw.
- To slide the plates more easily under a bay support: interrupt the first row, then engage the plates of the second row (leafed at the back) under the support.
- The following plate ends here under a shutter stop.
- Fill the corresponding notch with a fall, to avoid a thermal bridge and a weakness in the coating.
4 Modification of roof shores
- The banks of the roof stopping flush with the gables, remove the first two tiles of each row to extend the "battens" (here steel), with cleats of 30 cm long screwed from below.
- On this roof, each old half-wall tile is replaced by an entire wall tile - the difference in width corresponding to the thickness of the insulation.
5 Application of the plaster
- Mix the mortar forming the coating body with water.
- Based on white cement, it is compatible with EPS (expanded polystyrene).
- Reinforce each corner of the wall, all the way up, with a stick.
- Stick it in the plaster with a band deployed on both sides.
- Place the mortar by "key" on the plates, then unroll the strips of the reinforcement mesh from the ridge of the pinion.
- Cut the top of each lé to the cutter.
- Apply the siding (ready to mix) with a soft stainless steel trowel.
- Adjust the thickness to that of the larger grains.
- Then, apply this coating to the platter or to the wide knife (50 or 60 cm).
- When the reinforcement mesh overflows beyond one edge, do not try to press on the other side: it would tend to take off. It is better to sharpen with a cutter.
- The first layer of plaster reveals traces of recovery: remove the most marked with a stainless steel scraper, otherwise they will still be visible despite the second layer.
- Apply a second coat of plaster to the stainless steel trowel.
- Its thickness should be as regular as possible.
- Then work on the plastic plate.
Supplies for thermal insulation from the outside (ITE)
• Polyurethane adhesive sealant
• Panel trim profiles (Batiformes), white pop rivets Ø 4 x 10 (assembly of aluminum covers), sheet metal screws TR Ø 4 x 15
• 30 x 3 flat iron (hinge reinforcements), screws TR M6 x 15 and M6 x 20, nuts M6 (hinge fixing)
• Universal dowels Ø 6 x 50 and bolt bolts TF Ø 5 x 60 or other (fixing hinge reinforcements), dowel pins Ø 6 x 50
• 50 x 50 cm white grooved EPS plates, starting profiles, horizontal and vertical support profiles, interleaved and non-interlocked corner rods, mesh (standard and reinforced), mortar for ITE system, bottom regulator
• Cleats of 30 x 40 and agglo screws Ø 4 x 35
• Roof tiles and ridge
• Gutter gutters