Works of the month of January
➞ Establish the plan of rotation of your garden for the year; also check your vegetable seed supply for not being short when the time comes.
➞ Continue winter sizes on fruit trees (outside freezing periods); you have until March to act.
➞ In case of strong frosts, think to shelter under chassis or swaddling hotpot of any kind. Even very hardy plants are vulnerable to frost when they are in pots. Otherwise, bury them in the compost.
➞ Arrange a finely crushed mulch around the early, often short, flowers, such as hellebores or snowdrops: you will avoid them getting covered with mud.
➞ Spread agricultural lime on the mossy parts of the grass, to alkalize the environment: the mosses live in an acid environment and will not appreciate the change.
At a time when we are talking about energy savings, rediscover the simple annuals, to sow cold. Long neglected, they return to the front of the stage, thanks to the fashion of the flowering meadows. The principle is simple: you prepare the earth, you sow and let yourself go. It is wise, however, to make some nuances, depending on the species involved and the desired results.
First of all, no matter how hardy these sure values are, there is nothing to prevent you from preparing the ground well: good tillage, organic inputs and basic weeding. The results will only be better.
Sowing intervenes between now (yes!) And the month of May. The good average will be in March, if you want to do it all at once. To limit possible transplanting, ensure a careful spacing, proportional to the development of each plant.
You can also sow in terrines or potting soil in a sheltered corner. Then you transplant the plants where you want to place them when they have developed three to five true leaves. Make sure the species is suitable for it. This technique requires a little more work, but strongly limits losses and ensures regular spacing.
These annuals ("true") are single-shot rifles: they germinate, grow, flower and die after giving seeds. Their decadence can be delayed by removing the faded flowers, but it is wiser to do a series of three sowing, three weeks apart, to lengthen the season. The principle is even more valid for flowers to cut, such as sweet peas (photo above).
There are many ornamental varieties of sunflower, single or double, dwarf or giant. Rustic, they willingly resve in place. Let one or two feet grow to provide a pantry for the birds.
Wonderful in the garden as in bouquets, the hull chrysanthemum makes a noticed return, with among others, pastel forms. This country flower grows everywhere without effort.
The silky poppy flowers last only one day. But they follow each other for a long time and their seed capsules are decorative. Sow them early (February-March).
An annual fake, eschscholzia is a marvel that supports lean soil, lack of water and full sun. It flowers from June to October and naturalizes without any care.
The range of cosmos extends each year. Sow them in March and April to obtain vigorous plants. Sown later, they linger until the fall to blossom.
Short and robust, this viperine (Echium plantagineum) grows everywhere in soil not too fresh. His only fault is to be fleeting enough. It requires to be sown in successive series.
For sowing in a box, space the seeds to save transplanting. Cover it all to maintain a good hygrometry, but ventilate as soon as you get up to limit mold.
If weeds are so good that the ground at the beginning, you will have to carry out a new uprooting, at the stage "young plant" preferably. Beyond this stage, the work will be less efficient and more difficult.
Always protect the seedlings against the appetite of the birds and the scratching of the cats. A forcing veil will be suitable for the beds, a horticultural container or a fence will cover the boxes.
The Venus-hoofs are among the rare terrestrial exotic species living in bark potting. They also appreciate some limestone.
It's the full moment of orchids in bloom. If the cultivation of certain orchids (with very particular requirements) proves to be complex, the range of the easiest plants has considerably expanded. The cost of plants has dropped significantly, allowing experiments without too much risk. Do you always say that orchids have imperative, but limited, requirements.
Give them only the fertilizer and the substrate, poor and airy, that suits them. No untimely soil, nor conventional fertilizers, especially.
They all need a high hygrometry, but they must never stay in the water. Basin them as often as possible, while making sure that the hiding pots, in particular, do not serve as a bathtub.
Most enjoy a stay outdoors, in the shade, between May and October. The alternation of day / night temperatures will be beneficial for the setting flowers.
Various species emit discards on the flower stalk, or even on their elongated pseudo-bulbs (false stems). Detach them once rooted and place them in pots as their parents.
Repot orchids when they escape from their container. Remove the old parts and transplant into a new mixture. Let it dry a fortnight
many days before resuming watering.
Cattleyas and their complex hybrids often represent the model of the orchid. They ask for a regular temperature and appreciate little being moved once in button.
Phalaenopsis include an infinite range of hybrids of all colors. All live roots in the air. To avoid hindering the rise of flowers, never cut their stems before they dry naturally.