- Before you start laying a laminate
- Difficulty - Cost - Time - Equipment for laminate flooring
- Acoustic underlay: essential for floating floors
- Orient the blades
- 1 Placing the blades
- 2 Cut-outs around the obstacles
- 3 Fixing baseboards
- A laminate floor, what is it? Recall.
Good value for money and rather durable, laminate flooring is as pretty as easy to live. Its floating installation by interlocking blades without nail or glue is the primary reason for its success especially with beginners DIYers!
Before you start laying a laminate
• Remove the old coating and remove any residual glue with a specific cleaner (Loriaux, Sader...).
• Leach or dust the floor carefully, without neglecting the angles.
• Store the slides in their packaging and store them on the floor and lay flat in the room to be coated 24 hours before installation.
• Lay skirting boards, remove doors and cut out door legs, if necessary.
• If an acoustic sub-layer is required, place the tiles edge-to-edge, without overlapping (to see further).
Difficulty - Cost - Time - Equipment for laminate flooring
Cost: € 6.50 / m2
Time: 1 day for a piece of 20 m2
- mesureing tape,
- profile copier,
- miter box,
- cartridge gun,
Laminate flooring is installed in all rooms of the house, except in the bathroom and kitchen where the flooring must be more resistant to moisture and temperature changes. Glued blades, tiles or PVC floor are then preferred (see below).
As for all these products, a successful installation requires a good floor plan, otherwise a patch is essential.
Acoustic underlay: essential for floating floors
The laminate can be placed on a concrete slab, a wooden floor or reconstituted panels and even an old coating (tiles, PVC floor, or carpet according to the manufacturer's recommendations). An acoustic underlayment can also be very useful.
Either it is directly integrated with the blades (as here), or it is proposed in the form of plates or rolls of foam (polyurethane, crosslinked polyethylene, polyester fibers...). It reduces the noise of footsteps and corrects slight irregularities of the ground, thus preventing the deformation of the blades at term. It is often compatible with a heated floor. The strips are contiguous and arise perpendicular to the direction of the laminate (without overlapping).
Orient the blades
The laminate chosen for this project ("Vision, Bleached Oak Augusta", Colors of Castorama) has an integrated soundproofing sub-layer; a solution that simplifies installation and saves time. It is compatible with a low temperature floor heating and then requires the installation of a polyane film before the introduction of the blades. These must be oriented in the direction of natural light (window). They can also be laid parallel to the longer length of the room, as here, which allows to visually enlarge the space.
1 Placing the blades
- Place the first blade against the wall, at an angle, tongue side wall.
- Place 8 mm expansion spacers between the wall and the blade.
- Insert the tongue of the next blade, at an angle of 25 to 30°, into the groove of the blade in place and lower it to fit it.
- Continue without forgetting to place the holds.
- At the end of the row, measure the space to cover and postpone the measurement on your last blade.
- With a ruler, trace the cut line to the square, removing 2 to 3 mm.
- The blade clamped to the worktop by a clamp, practice cutting with a jigsaw.
- Wear protective glasses.
- Place a shim and fit the blade at the end of the row.
- The slight irregularities visible at the end, after cutting, will be masked by skirting boards.
- Check the parallelism and squareness of the row with the wall.
- Start the next row with the fall at the end of the first row.
- The joints must be offset by at least twice the width of a blade.
- Always present the blade at an angle of approximately 30° and fold it down to the ground.
- Make sure that the blades are parallel and do not hesitate to fit them slightly in force.
- For the last row, cut the blades in width if necessary.
- Wait one hour, then remove all expansion wedges.
2 Cut-outs around the obstacles
- In the presence of an obstacle (pipes, water heater like here...) placed on the ground, use a copier of profile to take the footprint of the cut to be made, with a play of 2 to 3 mm for the dilation.
- Keep the copier in a horizontal position to avoid misfitting and lay it flat on the end of the blade.
- Reporter and draw the outline.
- For this type of curved cut, use a jigsaw with a scroll blade.
- Place it at the end of the blade at the level of the report carried out, and follow precisely the path.
- Assemble the blade to the previous one slightly in strength.
3 Fixing baseboards
- Measure, postpone and trace the length of the wall on the plinth.
- To avoid splinters, glue a masking tape over the cut line.
- Position the skirting board against one side of the miter box, hold it firmly and then saw at a 45° angle using a fine-toothed handsaw.
- Place a bead of mastic glue in zigzag (Bostik, Ergocol, SB Mercier, Pattex...).
- For long lengths, use a cartridge gun.
- Press the plinth against the wall.
- In the corners, abut the two pieces and strengthen the bonded assembly with two tips man head.
A laminate floor, what is it? Recall.
A laminate flooring consists of four layers:
- a wear layer of melamine resin (called "overlay");
- a decorative sheet imitating different types of wood;
- a core or support panel made of MDF (medium density fibers), HDF (high density fibers) or fibers agglomerated with phenolic resins;
- a counterpart (impregnated layer on the underside of the support which contributes to the stability of the soil).
This type of soil does not support any sanding, under penalty of damaging its imitation wood decoration. When it is too damaged, it must be changed.
• Laminated floor boards (L. 112.6 x W.19.4 cm, 8 mm thick with 1 mm soundproofing, sold in 2 m bales2)
• Expansion wedges
• Putty-adhesive cartridge