The renovation of a particleboard floor (here for the creation of attic spaces) must be carefully prepared according to the dimensions of the room, the angles and recesses, the length of the joists and the space that makes them separate. It is therefore necessary to work from a bare joist to more easily take all the necessary measurements and compare them to the standard dimensions of the panels and their thickness. Do not forget to create a hopper for a possible access staircase. The training of a plan is almost indispensable. It makes it possible to compare the production solutions focusing on the direction of installation of the panels and the possibilities of reuse of the falls. Attention, some measures must take into account the thickness of what is called the line of cut (2 to 3 mm) which can be slightly greater than the thickness of the blade of the tool used, especially in this type of material.
- Trace cord
- Glue brush
- Hand saw (or jigsaw)
- Circular saw
- Electric plane
- Irregular wall
- Stair exit
- Cutting in the skins
- Finishing along a wall
1. Start your job at the end of the workpiece with the most corners or setbacks. Check the strength of the joists and any fastening points on the walls. Place one or two non-fixed panels across 3 joists to ensure a stable and secure plan for the start of your work.
2. When the wall does not have protruding parts, install a cleat either by nailing on wood or by screwing peg into the wall material.
3. This insert must obviously have the same plane as the top of the joists so that the panel can be supported without changing the general level of the floor.
4. The panels used are presented with grooves and tongues to fit into the assembly. It can even be coated with vinyl glue: this reinforces them and can reduce any crackling noises. As a general rule, it is recommended to place the tongue along the starting wall and to logically cut the grooved side. Measurement is therefore carried out without taking into account the tongue, the latter being absorbed by the groove of the adjacent panel during assembly.
5. Measurement is therefore carried out without taking into account the tongue, which is absorbed by the groove of the adjacent panel during assembly. Take the exact measurements of the offset to post on the panel that will come the border.
6. Draw the cut line in pencil with ruler and square. The thickness of the cut line is not taken into account here since it will be performed outside the line. But a cut made to obtain a slightly angled song, will facilitate the installation of the panel flush with the wall
7. If you are doing manual sawing, put the panel on a cleat to raise it so that it does not run the risk of attacking the joist supporting it.
8. Make the cut either with a handsaw (better controlled attack and precision), or with a jigsaw, or even a circular saw, outside the pencil line. Note the laying of the sign obligatorily on the void to work on the hand.
9. Adjust the panel against the recess. The dimensional stability of the material does not require the installation of peripheral wedges as for the installation of floating floors.
10. The panel rests on the entire edge of the joist (its width) and even a little beyond. Take the half-joist mark and draw the cut line on the board using a chalk line or a large ruler if it is not difficult to handle in a regular room.
11. Cut with a hand-held circular saw by precisely adjusting the depth of cut of the blade over the thickness of the panel so that the joist surface is not damaged. This is the advantage of this type of tool on the jigsaw or manual saws.
12. The floor portion delimited by the recess is now complete. Do not fasten (nails or screws) unless you are sure you do not need to make any adjustments. The laying will continue more easily and regularly on the rest of the ground. Only finishing connections can pose some difficulties.
13. In the case of an irregular wall, cut a short piece of cleat to make a wedge, lay it on the edge of the panel (tongue side) and cross it along the wall and hold a pencil leaning on it. front cut.
14. Drag the wedge along the wall, holding the pencil in an upright position, as if it were a truscan. The irregular profile of the wall will be drawn on the panel.
15. Cut the edge of the panel outside the line. Then push the panel along the wall: it will perfectly match the profile
16. To make corrections for all these panel cutting jobs, an electric plane is very effective. It allows to quickly make precise adjustments on cuttings a little tight...
17. A trestle having been installed in the joist, to create the exit of a staircase, refer to the panel, the internal measures of the square, the cuts to be equal to the void of the hopper.
18. Place the cut panel so that its cuts are just flush with the joists forming the hopper.
19. Complete the casing of the hopper by adjusting the panels that surround the one that has been cut.
Cutting in the skins
20. The trusses of a frame are so many obstacles that most often require a cut in the cladding, whether the partitions or the floor.
21. Placed starting from parallel walls, the panels meet at the center of the room, here an attic, But panels and joists being in the same axis, this last connection will have to be made, like the others, on a half width joist (never on the empty).
22. It is therefore necessary to postpone the measurement of the center-axis of the two central joists on the panel intended to make the final junction and to trace the cutting line (to do so with the chalk line avoids the manipulation of a great rule, inconvenient under the eaves)..
23. Make the cut on the outside of the line marking the measurement taken and not just on it as for the junctions made on the center of the edge of the joists.
24. Introduce the cut panel to fill the last void. It is preferable that it is put in place with a little resistance, which tightens all the panels of the row that you will not nailed as and pose them to allow a possible recovery.
Finishing along a wall
25. The last panel can also be installed along one of the walls. Since this is the irregular profile wall, you will need to install a profiled wood board first, as shown in photos 14 and 15 to recreate a regular rectangular space.
26. Note that the panels were installed perpendicular to the joist axis. It is therefore necessary to locate the central axis to make the fixing (nails or screws), once the joists completely covered by the panels. The use of a chalk line, to trace the fixing axes of the panels on the joists, is to be preferred to a large rule, less maneuverable under the eaves.
27. At each end, take the width that separates the edge of the last panel from the outer edge of the profiled blade. If the squareness of the whole has been respected, these two measurements must be identical.
28. Record the measurement on the last panel to be put in place and perform the chalk line tracing, as previously seen (photo 22).
29. Make the cut outside of the blue line drawn and check the measurement of the cut panel.
30. Rest on the profiled blade to install the last panel. No longer able to slide it sideways (it touches the corner), gently lower it on the joists. If you are having trouble setting it up, lift the previous panel at the same time, touch the two adjacent edges, and gently press the seam. Everything must be set up without problem.
31. Once all the panels of the row in place, make their fixing on the joists with nails of 60 mm, with flat head or by stainless screws whose head will be embedded in the panel to not interfere any type of subsequent recovery.
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