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PVC paneling

Paneling, formerly made of wood, can be produced today in a rot-proof and waterproof material: PVC (polyvinyl chloride). In addition to modern and stable color ranges, this material offers 2.70 m wide blades with varied textures and a large number of mounting accessories. Although it is light, it is better to be two for its implementation.

Necessary material

  • Mesureing tape
  • square
  • Carpenter's pencil
  • Felt
  • Tabbed box
  • Drill
  • Screwdriver-unscrewing
  • Electric screwdriver
  • Stapler
  • Bubble level
  • Rule
  • Electrician's screwdriver
  • Backpack saw
  • Bell saw
  • Metal saw
  • Jigsaw
  • Extruder gun

Steps

  1. Prepare the cleats
  2. Lay the cleats
  3. Lay the blades
  4. Lay the blades in the corners
  5. Put paneling around a socket
  6. Lay a ceiling stick and skirting boards

Prepare the cleats

Report the measure of 10 cm

Report the measure of 10 cm

1. As for any more or less important site, it is necessary to work with method to realize carefully this work which presents no real difficulties. Begin by placing on the cleats to cut, the measure of 10 cm provided for the vertical cleats of the bottom walls.

Draw the perpendicular cut line

Draw the perpendicular cut line

2. Using a square, draw the joiner's pencil with a carpenter's pencil to define cuts well perpendicular to the edges of the cleat.

Place the wand in the miter box

Place the wand in the miter box

3. Place the wand in the miter box and make a clean cut with a saw.

Pre-drill all cut cleats

Pre-drill all cut cleats

4. Pre-drill 1.5 cm from their ends, with a thin wick, all the cleats cut to prevent them from splitting when they are fastened.

Lay the cleats

Measure the height of the room

Measure the height of the room

5. Measure the height of the room with a triple meter that will save you from having to take the measurement twice, which is often a source of inaccuracy with a double meter. There are now laser pointers that display the desired rating.

Determine the location of the first horizontal cleat

Determine the location of the first horizontal cleat

6. With the square set along the wall, determine the location of the first horizontal battens, 10 cm above the floor and mark this mark on the wall. Perform the same operation in several places to surround the room.

Take the bearings of the horizontal batten next

Take the bearings of the horizontal batten next

7. Then take the marks of the next horizontal batten and so on to the ceiling, knowing that they will be spaced 50 to 60 cm apart depending on the height of the wall.

Drill the cleat with a wick

Drill the cleat with a wick

8. Put the cleat in place according to the marks, it will be maintained by the other person. Drill it completely with a small diameter wick that will mark the mark on the wall.

Ankle at the location of the marker

Ankle at the location of the marker

9. Remove the cleat and anchor at the location of the marker. We use here a self-drilling ankle (called "pigtail") for plasterboard (material of this wall). Use an electric screwdriver because you will have a large number of screws to put in place.

Work in pairs to fix the cleat

Work in pairs to fix the cleat

10. It is easier to work in pairs to fix the cleat all along its length, 10 cm from the ground. One holds the cleat and presents the screw and the second pushes it with the screwdriver.

Glue the back of the cleats with a sealant

Glue the back of the cleats with a sealant

11. You can then install the vertical cleats of 10 cm which will facilitate the installation of the blades and especially the skirting board. In addition to the screwing method provided on this site, you can also glue the back of the cleats with a sealant (presented in cartridge).

Space the vertical cleats from 30 to 40 cm

Space the vertical cleats from 30 to 40 cm

12. Space the vertical cleats 30 to 40 cm and if they are glued, press them firmly on the wall. Otherwise, apply the same method as for horizontal battens.

Screw the cleats

Screw the cleats

13. Turn on the screw with an electric screwdriver, given the large number of screws to put in place.

Check the horizontality of the cleats

Check the horizontality of the cleats

14. Be sure to check, at the bubble level, the horizontality of the cleats to be able to fix them before locking the screws.

Provide one or two alternate breaks

Provide one or two alternate breaks

15. For the fixing of the other horizontal battens, foresee on each wall one or two alternate cuts in order to favor a good circulation of air when the blades of PVC will be posed.

Lay the blades

Draw the upper cut line of the blades

Draw the upper cut line of the blades

16. Trace the top cut line of the blades according to the ceiling height. Use a square and a felt.

Make perpendicular cuts

Make perpendicular cuts

17. Make the cuts perpendicular to the hacksaw while keeping the paneling board flat.

Staple the profile on the cleats

Staple the profile on the cleats

18. Place the starting profile and check its verticality at the bubble level. Staple it on the cleats. This profile is here placed in full panel to facilitate the demonstration, but it is usual to leave from a corner of the room or doorframe.

Check the verticality of the profile

Check the verticality of the profile

19. Push in the bottom of the profile, the blade on the edge of its groove and set it up. Check its verticality and then staple it.

Continue the pose

Continue the pose

20. Continue the installation by stapling the boards as follows. To facilitate this work, it is best to do two: one engages the blades and the other staple.

Lay the blades in the corners

Staple the base of the corner profile

Staple the base of the corner profile

21. Staple the base of the corner profile that you have pushed on the end of the horizontal cleats.

Measure at different heights the distance separating the song from the last blade

Measure at different heights the distance separating the song from the last blade

22. Measure at different heights, the distance separating the song from the last laid blade, at the bottom of the soul of the pedestal of the profile.

Carry the measurements on the siding of the blade

Carry the measurements on the siding of the blade

23. Wear the measurements on the blade facing from the edge of the groove. This multiple dimensioning makes it possible to correct a possible defect which could come from the return wall since the blades are considered to be perfectly vertical.

Draw the cut line

Draw the cut line

24. Draw the line of cut by connecting with the rule, the registered markers. Use the felt to get a prominent line.

Cut the blade with a jigsaw

Cut the blade with a jigsaw

25. Cut the blade along the line drawn with a jigsaw. Equip it with a lateral cutting guide if the line of felt is parallel to the edge of the blade (identical dimensions).

Engage the blade on the previous

Engage the blade on the previous

26. Engage the cut blade on the previous one and rest it on the base of the profile.

Clip profile from bottom to top

Clip profile from bottom to top

27. Position the profile cover by engaging it in the center slot of the base and then clip it from bottom to top to cover the cut of the last blade.

Engage the next blade

Engage the next blade

28. Engage the next blade in the right side of the profile as it was done at the beginning.

Staple the blade

Staple the blade

29. Staple the blade you have just laid after verifying its verticality. Continue the pose as before.

Raise the distance between the last blade and the angle of the wall

Raise the distance between the last blade and the angle of the wall

30. The arrival at a salient angle allows you to finish there your pose. To do this, take again in several places, the distance between the edge of the last stapled blade and the edge of the angle of the wall.

Cut the last blade

Cut the last blade

31. Similarly cut the last blade to be laid, using the line obtained by the junction of the transfer of dimensions.

Ankle and screw a vertical cleat

Ankle and screw a vertical cleat

32. Then, by pegging and screwing, place a vertical batten flush with the edge of the corner of the wall.

Glue the cleat

Glue the cleat

33. Stick this cleat with a bead of adhesive-sealant placed in accordion.

Engage the groove side edge

Engage the groove side edge

34. Engage the groove edge of the cut blade on the last fixed blade, then apply strongly to adhere this blade to the vertical cleat.

Glue an angle profile

Glue an angle profile

35. Apply a bead of caulk to a simple corner profile with the width of the wings to cover the thickness of the blade and the cleat.

Position the corner profile

Position the corner profile

36. Position the corner profile and press firmly on both wings. Wipe off any burrs of glue immediately.

Put paneling around a socket

Measure the distance between the plug and the last blade

Measure the distance between the plug and the last blade

37. Start by turning off the power. Disassemble the plug. Do not leave stripped wires for safety and install a splice. Take the distance between the vertical axis of the power outlet and the edge of the last laid edge.

Measure the distance between the ground and the socket

Measure the distance between the ground and the socket

38. In the same way, take the distance from the ground to the horizontal axis of the socket.

Mark the first horizontal dimension

Mark the first horizontal dimension

39. Point at the bottom of the blade to be drilled, the first horizontal dimension from the edge of the blade, groove side. Then with a square resting on the base of the blade, pass a line through this point.

Postpone the vertical measurement

Postpone the vertical measurement

40. In the same way, look at the line drawn, the vertical measurement from the base of the blade. This point is the center of the case.

Drill a 50 mm opening

Drill a 50 mm opening

41. Place the drill bit of the hole saw at this point and drill a 50 mm opening.

Pass the wires from the socket through the hole

Pass the wires from the socket through the hole

42. Engage the edge of the drilled blade on the groove side, on the previous blade, then run the wires from the socket through the hole, put the blade in place and staple it.

Connect the wires

Connect the wires

43. Connect the wires to the turntable and tighten the spacer screws that secure it to the housing.

Refit and screw the front

Refit and screw the front

44. Install the front of the jack and screw it onto the board.

Lay a ceiling stick and skirting boards

Attach a cleat in the wall / ceiling corner

Attach a cleat in the wall / ceiling corner

45. For a more aesthetic finish, it is possible to install this paneling with a finishing rod flush with the ceiling. In this case, it is necessary to fix before laying (by pinning and screwing or simple gluing) a cleat in the angle formed by the wall and the ceiling. It will complete the network of horizontal cleats already laid on the wall.

Staple the base of a corner profile

Staple the base of a corner profile

46. ​​Place a ceiling corner profile on top of the cleat from which you have removed the cover and staple the base.

Cover the ends of the blades

Cover the ends of the blades

47. As the blades are laid as before, cover their ends by applying the cover of the profile.

Glue the back of the base

Glue the back of the base

48. To install the skirting board, the base of which can be used to pass electrical wires, glue the back with a bead of mastic glue laid in a zigzag pattern.

Position the base

Position the base

49. Put the base in place by applying it firmly along the base of the blades resting on cleats.

Pass electrical wires in the base of the plinth

Pass electrical wires in the base of the plinth

50. If necessary, run electrical wires through the base of the baseboard before closing it by clipping the cover.

The installation of PVC paneling allowed a clean and fast renovation of the room

The installation of PVC paneling allowed a clean and fast renovation of the room

51. The installation of PVC paneling has made it possible to upholster in a modern, pleasant and practical way, a room whose walls would have required a tedious work of restoration with plaster, sanding, laying of a primer, before being able to upholster them or paint them. Moreover all the work could be carried out without delay, not having to undergo waitings related to drying times.

(photos / visuals: © DIY-Prod, except special mention)

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