- Partially removable lamella assemblies
- Cabinet-based furniture
- 1 Machining grooves of sliding doors
- 2 miter sawing
- 3 Manufacture of sliding covers for your "made-to-measure" storage
- 4 Realization of the lower shelving of the living room furniture
- 5 Assembly of the upper part of the storage unit
- 6 Finishes and final editing of the library
- Tip to catch a cutting error on MDF
Composed of elements assembled by slats, this furniture of living room is equipped with two sliding facades which mask or discover at will a flat screen of 107 cm and shelves.
Cost: 300 €
Time: 3 days
Equipment: clamps, square, roller and paint truck, laminator, drill driver, sander, router, saw, router, milling machine, trainer, roller mats (options)
Despite its size (282 x 85.5 x 34 cm), this piece of furniture can be very useful in a living room. It acts as a library, support for a flat screen (42 '' / 107 cm diagonal) and furniture for all conventional devices (decoder, DVD player, speakers...). In addition, it can change its appearance according to his desires: indeed its facades slide, which allows to hide the screen at leisure. The furniture then gives free access to two side shelves, which can accommodate books and other objects.
Partially removable lamella assemblies
The work is made entirely with MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) panels, an economical material that is well suited to a painted (but also lacquered) finish. In addition, the use of 22 mm thick panels allows here to manufacture a largely removable assembly, maintained only by wooden slats. Ensuring a precise positioning of the elements between them, the lamellae employed are of two sizes: the larger ones (No. 6) keep the parts removable, while the smaller ones (No. 20) are used for the few glued joints.
Main interest of this type of assembly, the time saving, the precision and the speed of realization... which make it an alternative to the tenons and mortises and other assemblies (by tongue for example).
The furniture consists of a low base (height 28.2 cm) on which rest two library boxes. These boxes support a transverse spar for both stabilize the assembly and guide the two sliding cowls bearing on the base.
For finishes, it is better to choose a neutral shade (white, beige or black) that will make the furniture as discreet as possible.
1 Machining grooves of sliding doors
- Have the panels (GSB, suppliers, etc.) cut out and mark them with a letter.
- The grooves for embedding the future guide rail are machined with a laminator equipped with a parallel guide (Virutex).
- The thickness of the blade (4 mm) makes it necessary to make the groove 7 mm wide and 10 mm deep in two passes.
- Another solution is to mount an extensible grooving cutter set to 7 mm on a router.
- Ideally, the latter must be equipped with a coach and roller mats to be able to pass the long pieces.
2 miter sawing
- To miter (right-angle) the components of the sliding covers (front, top and back), use a circular saw mounted on a guide rail or a router equipped with a 45° cutter.
- Tilt the milling guide to dig # 20 slats (every 10 cm approx.) Into the edge of the panels.
- It is possible to make a resistant assembly by using a locked miter cutter mounted on a router.
- First step: flat panel machining...
- Next step, machine the second panel vertically, without changing the cutter setting.
- The panels are then glued and nested perfectly.
3 Manufacture of sliding covers for your "made-to-measure" storage
- The hood rests on 4 roller carriages.
- A precise layout makes it possible to make a bowl (hatched part) and holes for the trolleys.
- Dig the cuvettes using a router with a reamer (Ø 20 mm).
- The machine is guided by wedges forming a U.
- Check the positioning of the carriages in the cuvettes and that of the screws.
- Drill the pilot holes (Ø 5 mm drill bit), preferably with a drill press.
- With the front of the hood lying flat on the workbench, generously glue the mitered edges of the top and back of the hood and assemble the three elements together.
- Keep the pieces with clamps.
- To ensure their squareness, insert and tighten some rectangular wedges against the front and back: they serve to maintain their verticality.
4 Realization of the lower shelving of the living room furniture
- Place the elements of the lower rack according to the order of assembly.
- Then lay them flat as if they were hinged.
- To avoid mistakes, trace the location of the notches to be made on the face of one of the panels to be assembled and on the edge of the other.
To avoid mistakes, trace the location of the notches to be made on the face of one of the panels to be assembled and on the edge of the other.
To easily cut the slice and the corresponding face of a panel, place a drop of MDF (M mark) in the extension of the panel. Then, it is only necessary to machine successively in vertical and horizontal position.
- For dismountable assemblies, use No. 6 lamellae. Because of their large size, they require lengthening the notches.
- To check the assemblies, make a blank assembly of the entire lower part of the cabinet: the underside, the six uprights and the two panels forming the back.
5 Assembly of the upper part of the storage unit
- The boxes placed on the grooved plate are glued assemblies.
- Cut the slits for the slats, mount white, then glue.
- Machine the binding notches between the shelves, glued assemblies (2 uprights and 1 back) and the grooved plate.
- The thickness guide of the machine keeps it in horizontal and vertical position.
- On the grooved plate, put in place without gluing, then glue the connection with the shelf.
- Insert slats n° 20 and the shelf.
- Position the two uprights on each shelf (provided with slats), without sticking them.
- Then install the grooved spar ("LR") on both shelves and against the studs.
- Keep it in position with clamps.
- Trace the axes of the assembly slats between the grooved spar and the shelves, then between the uprights and the spar.
- Glue only the connection between the uprights and the shelves.
6 Finishes and final editing of the library
- Sand the sides of the glued boxes to even the surfaces.
- Sand the second pass by hand, emphasizing the angles, with a wedge filled with medium-grit sandpaper (# 120).
- To ensure that the rail does not come out of its housing, place Neoprene glue in the bottom of the groove, or on the outside bottom of the aluminum guide rail.
- Push the guide rails into the two grooves.
- Help a mallet and a martyr hold, without beating too hard.
- Apply masking tape to the rails (used by house painters) to protect them from plaster and paint, and cut it with the cutter following the edges of the rails.
- After softening the edges with sandpaper, brush the edges with a primer or a Gesso type coating.
- Apply two coats of satin paint, making a careful ginning with extra fine sandpaper between each pass.
- Some guide rails have specific stops.
- If this is not the case, insert in force small wooden blocks against which the carriages will abut.
- Before final assembly of the furniture, check the horizontality of the floor.
- Compensate for any differences in level by nailing shims directly above the studs.
- Then mount the pedestal, the two pedestals, the spar and then the two sliding covers.
Tip to catch a cutting error on MDF
If the MDF board is notched in the wrong place, glue a coverslip and cut it with a reciprocating saw.
Small defects will be caught in the woodpulp or plaster, then sanded carefully.
• Medium panels 22 mm thick.
• Sliding door system type StarTec (Häfele) or Slide Line (Hettich, Bricozor, Legallais...) including 2 guide rails of 3 m, 8 sliding trolleys (4 on the right and 4 on the left), screws and eccentric
• Lamellae n° 20 and n° 6
• Wood screws 4 x 50 mm
• Sandpaper # 120, steel scouring pads
• Glue, primer and paint for wood
• Painter's tape