It is possible to obtain a better quality protection than that offered by ordinary locks without undertaking the installation of a lock 5 points. A set of 2 locks, each controlling a vertical rod, provides 4 points of closure to the door (taking into account in this calculation of the bolt of each lock).
- crank shaft
- Helical drill
- Electric drill
- Wood wick
- Wood chisel
- Mounting dimensions of bolts and rods
- Drilling and fixing locks
- Setting up the 4 strikes
Mounting dimensions of bolts and rods
1. As with any bolt installation, first measure the gap between the end of the bolt (in the "open" position) and the middle of the barrel. This measurement is essential to determine the axis of the hole to be drilled in the door for the passage of the lock.
2. Next, determine the location of the two locks. Place each rod on the door: its lower end must be flush with the bottom or the top, which corresponds to the "open" position. Place the lock at the other end of each of the rods; take the measurement from the center of the barrel.
3. Record the dimensions found on the outside of the door. Do it precisely to determine the exact location of the hole. The proper functioning of each lock depends on the care taken in this operation.
Drilling and fixing locks
4. Drill the door using a crankshaft and a helical drill bit. This accessory allows the drilling of holes of large diameter (thanks to its centering point). If you use an electric drill, you will need, in addition, a small hole saw.
5. Insert the lock and its rod. On this occasion, check that the location of the lock is satisfactory. If the rod is a little too long, you can saw it. Once the latch is placed, use a plotting tip to mark the location of the latch mounting holes. Prime them to promote subsequent drilling. Use for this one an electric drill and a wood drill (its diameter must correspond to the threaded rods fixing the lock).
6. Fixing this kind of lock is not done by ordinary screws, as is usually the case. Use slotted bolts: the threaded rod is terminated by a conventional screw head. The bolts are screwed into the counter plate of the lock. Put the latter and then the counterplate from the outside.
7. Prime the threads of each bolt by hand. Do not force it if it is difficult to "take": you could permanently damage the thread and be obliged to replace the bolt and backplate. Then screw the four bolts to the slot in the lock body. When all four bolts are completely screwed in, lock them with the screwdriver.
8. Now connect the rod and the lock. It is done by means of a nipple: this one, placed on the lower or higher exit of the lock, comes to slip in a hole pierced at the end of the rod. This connection is trapped in the slide, then screwed below (or above) the lock.
Setting up the 4 strikes
9. After having put in place the "capital" of the rod (which guides it at its end), put the door on its hinges. It is often necessary to be two to perform this operation. Put in place the two side locks (classic type) locks. Locate the location of the drill holes, prime them and screw securely into the frame frame frame. It may be helpful to wedge the strike with a sheet of plywood (or simply cardboard), to align it exactly with the bolt so that the lock operates easily. The resistance to tearing is however a little less, then use very long screws.
10. The vertical rod of the upper lock locks in a smaller striker than the others, but in the upper cross member of the frame frame.
11. The vertical rod of the lower lock locks in a floor striker, in fact a metal plate pierced with a hole corresponding to the section of the rod. If the floor (here under the carpet) is a parquet, screw this plate with countersunk wood screws. If the floor is concrete, dab, or even drill, with an electric percussion drill. Equip it with a tungsten carbide tipped concrete drill. In this case, peg before screwing.
12. A dwelling shall be provided in the ground to allow passage to the end of the bottom rail. If it is, as here, a parquet covered with a coating, the simplest is to dig the housing after screwing the plate. The coating, thus taken under the plate, is not likely to rise at the edges. The chisel used here is of width adapted to the notch to be made. The problem is more difficult if it is a concrete floor. A simple and effective technique is to dig a series of holes at the location of the desired housing, with an electric drill with a drill bit. Finish digging with a small mason's chisel. In both cases (and whether it is the top striker or the lower striker), the rod must fit perfectly, without rubbing in any place, so as not to lock the lock. An adjustment to the file is sometimes necessary.
On the same topic
- The new UNIK key, an exclusivity offered by approved installers Picard Serrures
- DIY tips
- How to install a simple lock on isoplane door?
- Lock 5 points
- Hinge protection
This may interest you