- Adapt it to your interior
- The structure
- The outer frame
- The setting frame
- Cut out the mitered assemblies
- Strengthen assemblies
- Sand amounts and sleepers
- Glue with vinyl glue
- Control the squareness
- Assemble the inner frame by trunnions
- Assemble the second frame
- Fix the canvas
Make a radiator cover? Nothing's easier! A large wooden frame to hide the edge, a second, lighter, clothed to hide the front and the trick is played. To your tools.
Adapt it to your interior
Sober and classic, the decor of this radiator cover is transposable: playing on the essence of wood, its finish (varnish, stain, paint...) and on the color and patterns of the textile. Count between 15 and 50 euros (depending on the type of wood and canvas used) and a few hours for the realization. The equipment required is a circular saw, a laminator, a screwdriver drill, and a sander.
Concealing radiators is often necessary. Admittedly, their appearance has improved considerably and their size has decreased in recent years. But models "lookes", expensive for the rest, do not go in all styles of interior. And many out-of-date devices - in good working order - are still in use. Hence the interest of the caches, such as this one, quite simple to build, and whose realization is accessible to beginners. It does not normally require wall fixing.
This radiator cover consists of two frames nested one inside the other. The first, very visible, is made of large planks of good quality, arranged in formwork around the radiator. clothed in cloth to conceal the facade of the apparatus, the second can be satisfied with an ordinary wood. It must accurately enter the width of the outer frame: only the pressure due to the extra thickness of the fabric holds it in place.
The outer frame
It is formed of two uprights and two sleepers. The upper cross is mitered at the end of the uprights. Such a connection must be impeccable, because any defect would be visible. This solution is therefore recommended if you have either a sufficiently precise tooling to directly obtain a perfect result, or skills to adjust by hand by recaling to the plane. Otherwise, you can raise the amounts by two or three millimeters and connect the cross member slightly against the faces of the uprights.
The bottom rail is narrower to deliver the rear passage to the pipes. The assemblies are made with two slats on each side for the high crossbar, and only one for the lower one. If there is a plinth at the base of your walls, plan a cutout at the back of the studs to get around it.
The setting frame
It consists of two cross members of small section (20 x 40 mm max) and three uprights. The fabric, stapled at the back of the frame, must be of a loose enough texture for the air to flow through. Choose a tint or slightly messy patterns, convection movements of hot air tending to circulate the dust... and to remove it.
Dressing a radiator requires a few precautions. The air must be able to move freely up and down in front and behind. The dimensions will be calculated accordingly, leaving sufficient free space above and below the radiator, about 5 cm below the bottom rail and between the trim frame and the top rail.
Cut out the mitered assemblies
The miter joints of the outer frame are here cut with a portable circular saw on rail, a high-end material. In the absence of a very good tool, prefer a 90° assembly.
These same assemblies are reinforced by lamellae. This type of connection can be machined at the router for right-angle connections, but requires the use of a slitter for miter cuts.
Sand amounts and sleepers
The uprights and sleepers are easier to sand before assembly than after. Use an electric sander for flats, then lightly break the sharp edges with a simple sanding wedge.
Glue with vinyl glue
Bonding is imperative to vinyl glue. The assembly must be cured, because it can not be reinforced by screws. You can, however, place discrete brackets inside.
Control the squareness
Ratchet straps can replace the clamps. But be careful: they have enough strength to mark the wood. Controlling squareness by diagonal measurement is more practical than squared.
Assemble the inner frame by trunnions
The inner frame is assembled by trunnions. Since the accuracy required is low, freehand drilling is acceptable. But do not pierce too far end of the parts: the trunnions would sink!
Assemble the second frame
To assemble the second frame, glue the holes and push in the trunnions starting with the sleepers, pierced on edge. Add the amounts, put in press and check the squareness.
Fix the canvas
It remains to fix the canvas at the back of the frame. Do not stretch more than necessary. If you have no overcasting, staple in two layers. So the fabric does not fray.