Rather than using solid wood, which is more expensive and heavier, we used two plywood plates to make this flat door. In addition, we left it up to everyone to decide on the dimensions according to their own needs.
Necessary material
- square
- Circular saw
- Handsaw
- Mesureing tape
- Folding Meter
- Wood wedges
- Clamps
- Screwdriver
- Hammer
- Drill with depth guide
- Wood wick
- Wood scissors
- Colored pencil
- Brush
- Hunting-nails
Steps
- Structure
- Hinges and lock
- Finishing the door
Structure
1. The door is made of two plywood plates joined by means of a battens frame. The interior space thus created is filled with glass wool. Four cleats mitered at each of their ends are arranged in reinforcement in each corner, to ensure maximum rigidity.
2. For panels of this size, use a circular saw. Both panels must be of perfectly identical measurements. The tracing is therefore important that we guess. They are sawing together. Proceed smoothly, holding the side of the panel with one hand, otherwise breaking
3. When buying, check the straightness of the cleats. It happens, indeed, that they are deformed. Be careful to avoid any unpleasant surprises. Use cleats of 40 X 40 mm section. Glue the cleats to the vinyl glue.
4. Arrange the cleats to form a frame on the plywood panel. Hold both elements together with clamps.
5. Elements debited in the same material, and cut at 45° on both sides will be arranged in each corner. This cut must be precise to fit perfectly to the cleat of the frame. Determine the support point location of the reinforcements.
6. After tracing, measure the distance between the two marks to find the length of the reinforcement.
7. Nail the reinforcement cleats in the frame. They must be perfectly joined.
8. Nail a second cleat to the frame at the future location of the lock.
9. Before you lay the second plywood sheet, fill the void created by the frame with glass wool. The entire interior of the door is upholstered, not to mention the corners formed by the reinforcement cleats. This glass wool is cut with a simple pair of scissors.
10. Gently remove the second plate onto the glued frame. Be careful, the glass wool should not exceed. Hold the door firmly using clamps.
Hinges and lock
11. The hinges consist of two elements: the male part, or hinge, which is embedded in the wall and the female part which is fixed in the edge of the door (here, the cleat). We have sorted here only the female part, the laying of the hinges involving other notions (masonry in particular). The male parts and the female parts must match so that the pivoting of the door can be done.
12. Only the hinge supports are recessed. Without this, they would be an obstacle to the proper closing (or opening) of the door. Locate their location on the edge and hollow out with a wood chisel to a thickness corresponding to that of the support of the brass hinge.
13. When you have checked the installation of the hinge, you can fix it. Screw tight, there must be no play.
14. The batten section attached to one of the cleats of the frame is now along the edge opposite that to which the hinges are attached. This doubling was intended to increase the thickness of the cleat in anticipation of the establishment of the lock, being a lock to larder.
15. In order to fit the lock, you must pierce the edge of the door. Start by determining the depth required and adjust the depth guide of the drill.
16. Drill several holes side by side by adjusting the depth of cut beforehand. The diameter of the wick corresponds to the width of the space to be excavated.
17. When you have pierced the song along the entire length of the lock, blow up the remaining wood with a chisel.
18. There are several types of locks, but here being an indoor communication door, a simple lock, extra-flat and cane-beak is enough. Given the structure of our door, an extra flat lock (or mortise) was preferable. Determine the location of the front plate, called the headrest.
19. Then dig with a wide wooden chisel so that the headrest fits flush with the edge. The depth of the notch should match the thickness of the faceplate.
20. Identify the holes to be drilled for the passage of the key (called "entry barrel") and for that of the rod of the cane. Drill well perpendicular to the mortise
21. Finally, you can finally put the lock in place using the fixing screws after a blank mounting and any corrections you may need to make.
Finishing the door
22. Now that the door is finished, you can proceed to finishing it. You can paint it or tint it. It is useless to varnish, the wood is not remarkable. We decided to dye it. Choose the shade that will best match your interior. First try shades on plywood scraps.
23. The choice of finishing accessories is very large. You can put rosettes that will give a little style to your door.
24. To get a good job, hunt all the nail heads.
25. The last step is to put the handle in place.
(photos / visuals: © DIY-Prod, except special mention)
On the same topic
- Questions answers
- How to renovate a plywood interior door?
- DIY tips
- How to make a wooden door for the cellar?
- Debit the wood and make it a garden gate
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