- Digging the mortises
- Cut and adjust the lower post
- Present and clamp the sleepers
- Machine the tenons
- Cut a shoulder
- Molding posts and sleepers
- Walnut screw and anchor lag bolt
- Stain the pieces
- Fix the glass panels
A wooden frame, a smoked glass panel, a very discreet hardware and that's all. The design of this railing is far removed from that of turned balusters and other more or less sophisticated fretwork bars. This quality achievement fits perfectly into a modern or contemporary environment.
Realization: 2 weekends
Cost: 200 euros
equipment: combined wood, ripper, drill, wood lathe
See the plan of this realization (in pdf): Glass railing: the plan
Solid oak, glass and light tiles: a nice combination of materials that Vincent Kauffer offers us. And fine example of quality in sobriety. Because the decor of this simple railing is summarized in the molding of all the edges and the slightly pyramidal shape of the top of the posts. In return for this choice, the realization, however easy, must be neat: a simple project requires perfect execution because the slightest defect is obvious.
The frame of the guardrail of the staircase consists of two frames each formed of two posts and two sleepers, assembled by tenons and mortises with reinforcement pins. The first frame, in the center of a two-quarter turn staircase, follows the slope, resulting in a parallelogram shape. The second, installed on the landing perpendicular to the previous one, is rectangular. A spacer fixed by four pins of Ø10 mm connects the two parts, reinforcing the rigidity of the whole.
■ The bottom of the lower post is cut to fit on the face of the risers, in which it is fixed by three x 6 x 120 lag bolts. The post of the railing of the bearing on the wall side is anchored by two identical screws. The heads of the screws and lag bolts are embedded in a deep countersink and then concealed under one of the turned wooden plugs.
■ The two center poles are held by homemade steel headers. These, formed of a vertical tube axis of Ø 20 x 100 mm welded to a plate of 3 x 75 x 80, are fixed to the ground by four screws of 6 x 80. The posts, drilled at their end to the dimensions tubes, are fitted on them.
■ The edges of sleepers and posts are molded in quarter-round for the first and chamfered for the second whose summit is machined pyramid-shaped 15°. The two panes, cut to measure, are laminated safety glass 44/2. Each of them is kept in its frame by four bronze colored clips bought for this purpose.
The screw holes of the plates are drilled before assembling the studs. The upper end of the tubes is tapered to facilitate the mounting of the posts. After welding and cleaning the welds, the pads are treated rustproof. This operation can be avoided by using stainless steel, as long as you know how to work it. In fact, controlling welding is essential for obvious safety reasons.
■ Posts consist of two layers of laminated wood. After a first flow, the elements are planed on one side to allow their assembly. The final drafting takes place after bonding at the same time as the ties and the spacer. Only the sections are adjusted, the updates are done during construction.
■ The mortises are lowered to the router with a suitable template consisting of a frame and a cheek. The dimensions of the frame depend on the size of the mortise as well as the diameters of the copying ring and the straight cutter used. The cheek allows the appropriate distance positioning of the songs and the tightening of the template on the wood. Two of the posts are placed on the ground, the others being elevated by 3 mm by the stud; the place of mortises, established from the base, takes into account this gap.
■ The drilling of the housing of the studs must be perfectly in line, otherwise the ramp would be inclined, or its mounting impossible. A shrinkage of about 10 mm wide and as much depth will leave enough room for the weld seam. The posts are set to length by machining their point, with the blade of the circular saw inclined at 15°.
■ Turning operations include the machining of the five plugs and the eight pins that strengthen the joints. Small in size, these elements are taken from scrap wood used.
■ The design of the clamps allows the installation of windows without disassembly. To order these, it is necessary to provide the dimensions, but also the angle of the railing of the staircase. Important detail, an extruded silicone seal at the base of the posts allows regular washing of the soil without worry for the wood.
Digging the mortises
Large mortises are dug at the router with a straight cutter. A template of simple design (a frame and a lateral stop), used with a copying sleeve facilitates machining.
Cut and adjust the lower post
The lower post of the railing of the staircase is cut and adjusted to the nearest shape of the steps. It is perfectly plated on the risers, which gives it maximum rigidity.
The upper pole of the ramp and its bearing neighbor are drilled in the axis. The hole Ø 20 mm is widened at its base to make room for the weld seam of the metal studs, screwed into the ground.
Present and clamp the sleepers
The mortised posts are first installed. The sleepers are then presented and clamped against their faces with clamps. Locating the location of the tenons is then a breeze.
Machine the tenons
The tenons are machined to the top, "on the return". Their short length makes it possible to use an ordinary tool holder without working at the end of the shaft (protectors removed for the legibility of the photo).
Cut a shoulder
If it is not necessary to cut a shoulder on the tenons of the crosspieces of the bearing, it is essential for the ramp: the machining method chosen does not allow milling inclined mortises.
Molding posts and sleepers
Before final assembly, the posts and sleepers are molded to the quarter-round or chamfering router, then sanded. Similarly, the pyramids of the ends are cut with a circular saw.
Walnut screw and anchor lag bolt
The anchor bolts and anchor bolts are embedded in deep countersinks, closed by turned plugs. These are adjusted to hold without gluing, allowing a possible disassembly.
Stain the pieces
The pieces are tinted, varnished a first time and ginned before assembly, taking care not to touch the tenons and mortises. The second layer is passed once the guardrail is installed.
Fix the glass panels
The dimensions of the glass are precautionary raised after definitive establishment of the guardrail. The glazed panels are fixed inside the frames by means of clips bought for this purpose.