- Necessary material
- Laminate: low price and high resistance
- Reinforced assembly
- 1. Cutting and gluing the mattress
- Info +
- 2. Making mortises
- 3. Assembly of elements
- 4. Setting up the counter
At the same time separation and perfect transition between the kitchen and the living room, this counter replaces the original partition. Assembled by slats, this piece of furniture serves as a worktop, a dining area and storage space. A very practical realization!
gun for glue cartridges,
circular saws, miter and jumper,
lamella milling machine,
Find the plan of this kitchen counter on duitdesign.com/boutique
Cost: 120 €
Time: 1 weekend
To gain space and brightness, the partition separating kitchen and living room was cut down, giving way to a wooden counter that accommodates two storage shelves. Its realization structure the volume and keeps the original coatings in good condition but different in nature (tiling and carpet).
Laminate: low price and high resistance
In addition to its large storage capacity, the counter (intersected here at 2094 x 500 mm) serves as a hatch and offers a work plan that extends into a dining area. It is made with a laminate board 30 mm thick, the cheapest and most resistant material for a kitchen: it does not fear the stains or the heat of the dishes coming out of the oven.
Cut with a circular saw, the two edges of the exposed worktop are covered by iroko (dense and water-resistant exotic wood) cross-sections of 6 x 35 mm section. Miter sawed, they are simply glued (with water-resistant grease wood glue) and then flush for precise overlap.
The long fall of the intersected worktop is used as reinforcement screwed from below and also bored. By doubling the thickness of the worktop, it ensures a door overhang of 50 cm.
The back, side and shelves are reinforced with cleats (or stiffeners) that add resistance to 19mm melamine panels.
The slatted assembly of the melamine elements and oak battens of 19 x 50 mm section is realized using a special milling machine allowing the creation of mortises.
A plinth - also melamine - glued to the base of the counter, protects against friction and kicks.
On the finishing side, laminate and white melamine contrast with the wood and the dark brown of the plinth. Aleses and cleats are protected by a polyurethane varnish, adapted to the atmosphere of a kitchen.
1. Cutting and gluing the mattress
Draw and cut the iroko mattress pads according to the length of the edges to be covered on the worktop and the stiffener.
Use a miter saw.
Glue the mattress with a polyurethane glue or other glue compatible with exotic woods (Berner, V33, Bostik).
Center the pads on the edges and secure them with 15 mm headless tips to prevent the pads from slipping when tightened.
Press the paddles two by two on parallel edges, then the other two perpendicular pads. Miter cuts must be perfect at the corners.
Place a straight cutter and driver on the ripper or trimmer pliers.
Push the machine on the edge to be flush to level the edge of the pad.
Some routers come with interchangeable bases. The router base has a cutter diving device. With the router, the position of the cutter remains fixed and the device is more manageable.
2. Making mortises
To frame panels with cleats, use a slat milling machine. But before, draw centering marks spaced about 20 cm apart.
Clamp the panels flat on top of each other, then mill the cuts using the slat milling machine. Do the same for the cleats.
After notching the rear edge of the shelf lying flat on the back, mortise it with the machine in a vertical position. The shelf serves as a rule thanks to its benchmarks.
3. Assembly of elements
Glue the nicks (vinyl glue), place the slats and assemble the back and shelves.
These are reinforced by an oak cleat glued to the visible edge.
Position the blank side to trace the cutout allowing the passage of the reinforcement to support the worktop.
Use a jigsaw to create the necessary reservation before final assembly.
Assemble the reinforcement and back (edge against face) with a polyurethane glue or composite mastic. Then fix the side against the shelves and the back.
On the wall, measure the height of the shelves and worktop. Fix with screws (5 x 70 mm) and dowels cleats to support them.
Turn the box over and screw the cleats (19 x 50 mm) to the base to protect the cabinet from moisture. They can be replaced in case of premature wear.
4. Setting up the counter
Put the furniture in place on the floor, the shelves resting on support cleats attached to the wall. Draw the final location of the counter on the ground.
Apply a bead of silicone sealant to the previous pattern and place the furniture. The use of this type of sealant avoids piercing the ground to place pegs and prevents any movement of the counter.
The oak cleat attached to the foot preserves the structure of moisture.
Drill the reinforcing part of the worktop at regular intervals with a Ø 5 mm bit, after having placed a martyr block to prevent splinters coming out of the wick.
Then, place and fix the worktop from underneath (4 x 55 mm screws).
To protect the back and the side of the worktop, place a melamine baseboard.
Cut it to size and glue a piece of 19 x 50 mm battens to perfect the finish and hide the edge of the plinth.
If you need to make a jigsaw cut (to get around a skirting board for example), turn the saw around so that the blade teeth move in a direction that avoids splinters, especially when working with melamine. material whose surface is particularly hard and brittle.
• Laminated work plan
• Melamine panels (back, side, shelves)
• Oak cleats 19 x 50 mm
• 6 x 35 mm iroko inserts
• Slats n° 20
• Polyurethane glue in cartridge and vinyl glue
• 4 x 55 and 5 x 70 mm screws, dowels, veneer tips