- Practical advice
- Transforming a carriage hub
- The preparation
- The electrical assembly
- Carriage hub
- Unclog the strapping
- Drill and deoxidize the brass hubcap
- Shoulder and threaded column
- Drill the strapping
- Pass the wire in the tube of the colonet
- Screw on the hubcap
- To skate the foot
A lamp creates the atmosphere in an interior. Whether modern or rustic style, it is essentially his foot that personalizes it. The cart hub,
used here, will naturally evoke the rural life of the past.
The old bushings are not always mounted on the current threaded columns, the steps and diameters are no longer the same. There are adapters, but better to use a recent socket.
Transforming a carriage hub
This carriage hub was found in a barn. More elaborate than those of classic trolleys, its large brass hubcap carries, engraved, the name and the city of the craftsman who made it. Some operations will be enough to give it a new vocation.
The spokes of the wheel are housed in notches, scissors cut in the body of the hub. If they are still in place, it is usually enough to shake them to extract them without difficulty.
The central part of the hub comprises a steel part rotating on the axle. Repeated greasing has formed an interior amalgam of grease. It is removed with a brush soaked in white spirit or oil. After cleaning with soapy water, old layers of paint appear on the hub. It would be a shame to strip them, they give the room its authentic appearance.
The shoe is made of four circles. The bottom one is pierced with a hole Ø 8 mm for the passage of the electric cable. The entrance is milled so as not to damage the wire. The rusted metal is first stripped with a rotary brush on a drill, then polished with a cabinet-maker's brush, while also insisting on the grooves of the wood, fouled for years.
The center of the hubcap is pierced with a Ø 10 mm hole. It will receive the support of the socket, available in the electrical department of DIY superstores. The polished brass column, 100 mm long, has at each end a shoulder and a thread. Introduced into the hole of the hubcap, it is fixed from the inside, thanks to a flat nut.
The electrical assembly
The flexible two-conductor cable is passed through the hole in the lower circle. It passes through the hub and opens through the column whose upper end, threaded, was provided with the socket cup. The bushing used is bayonet type B 22 (B = bayonet, 22 = inside diameter in mm). The hubcap is then screwed to the top of the hub.
The ends of the two wires, stripped on 5 mm, are tightened in the two terminals of the socket. The porcelain nut is inserted into the cup, making sure to match the keys of both parties. Finally, the sleeve is screwed onto the thread of the cup.
To place the switch, the power cord is cut 40 cm from the foot. After separating the shell in two, the interior reveals four terminals grouped two by two. The ends of the wires, stripped, are clamped in the terminals as before.
The foot receives several layers of encaustic to feed the wood and avoid a reoxidation of the metal. A wool cloth polish highlights the patina. A shade is mounted on the socket with a second threaded ring, screwed on the sleeve, here ø 35 cm. A disc of carpet, glued under the hub, protects the support from scratches.
The hub as it was recovered, without its rays. The hoops are rusty, but the wood is healthy. It still has some traces of the painting that once decorated it.
Unclog the strapping
To strangle the strapping, attack the metal with a large rotating brush. If the corrosion is important, this operation may be preceded by a chemical treatment to the rust destroyer.
Drill and deoxidize the brass hubcap
The end of the hub is closed by a brass hubcap that screws onto the inner core. Drill it in the center at Ø 10 mm, and re-energize the metal with deoxidizing gel followed by polishing.
Shoulder and threaded column
Equip the hubcap with a special column, shouldered and threaded at both ends. One of the two threads passes through the central hole, and an inner nut locks.
Drill the strapping
Drill the bottom strapping of a Ø 8 mm hole, milled to avoid damaging the wire. Insert the two-wire cable into this hole, and then pass it through the hub body.
Pass the wire in the tube of the colonet
The wire is finally passed in the tube of the column. Let it exceed a few centimeters.
Screw on the hubcap
Screw the hubcap onto the thread at the top of your future lamp base.
To skate the foot
To skate the foot and prevent reoxidation of the iron, apply on the assembly, with the cotton wick, a tinted wax, medium oak color, then make shine with woolen cloth.