Each kitchen poses a particular problem of development especially in an old apartment where it is often of small dimensions and irregular shape. The kitchen furniture presented here can be modified according to the room configuration. Make a plan to design a rational layout: keep enough space to work and circulate conveniently. The worktop will be able to receive, by recess, the sink and the hob.
- Electric drill
- Wood drill bits
- Metal square
- Circular saw
- Backpack saw
- Tabbed box
- Nail set
- Tape measure
- Assembly screws
- Decorative moldings
- Wood glue
- Man's head tips
- Cleats of shelves (violin keys)
- Preparation of furniture elements
- Realization of the drawers and laying of the work plan
Preparation of furniture elements
1. Place a cleat along the edge of one of the furniture posts, after marking with a marker the location of the groove on which the bottom (plywood) of the furniture is embedded. Do not trace this groove to the top of the side, as you must reserve a space for the drawers in the upper part of the cabinet. The wood used is two-sided laminated chipboard 35 mm thick. It is possible to ask the wood merchant to cut it to the desired dimensions; otherwise, cut it yourself with a circular saw.
2. To make the groove, use a router and follow the guide bar attached to the chipboard with two clamps. Set the router to draw a groove half the thickness of the panel. In the absence of a router, a circular saw is also suitable for executing these grooves: in this case, choose a wide track blade, in order to avoid too many passes for the digging of a sufficiently large groove.
3. Using a drill, simultaneously pierce the panel and edge of the panels to be assembled. Engage the furniture assembly screw. Tighten it with a hexagon socket wrench or a screwdriver bit on a screwdriver. To make a solid assembly, place three cap screws to join both sides.
4. Place a cover (white pellet) which is fixed by simply pressing on the head of the cap screws. After setting up the covers, the assembly is almost invisible. The laminated chipboard is quite fragile: always handle it carefully, avoiding shocks.
5. Mount the furniture according to your plan. Set up the horizontal dividing panels. The bottom of the cabinet consists of plywood panels 5 mm thick, embedded in the grooves of the uprights and horizontal panels. During assembly, check the squareness with a metal square. The central part of the furniture presented here does not have a drawer, because it is intended to receive the installation of the sink tray.
6. Saw the laminated chipboards using a handsaw. Given the fragility of the veneer, it is necessary to take some precautions: use a saw with fine teeth and place an adhesive tape on the veneer to prevent its bursting. Draw the cut line after taking the measurements; for aesthetic reasons, the dimensions of the base are slightly lower than those of the furniture.
7. Turn the unit over so that the underside is toward you and place the base. The latter is also mounted with assembly screws. A crosspiece placed halfway between the ends strengthens the base; it will ensure a better distribution of expenses.
8. The assembly of the base below the furniture is done through the cleats. Using a screwdriver, first attach the batten to the edge of the pedestal, then screw it against the lower horizontal panel. Use screws that are equal in length to the thickness of the cleat plus half the thickness of the chipboard. Drill through holes in the cleat (with a drill).
9. Drill the holes for securing the shelves. Drill three holes per shelf to adjust the height. Take specific steps to determine the location of these holes; the shelves should be regularly spaced horizontally. In order to give all the blind holes the desired depth (and to avoid crossing the chipboard), equip the drill with a depth guide; it can be a piece of batten pierced in its axis and threaded on the bit, a short length of rigid plastic pipe or a plug.
10. Push the plastic cleats (fiddle keys) into the blind holes; the section of the latter must be calculated so as to drive the cleats "in force". The height of the shelves varies with the destination of the compartments (bottle racks, spice racks, etc.).
11. Put the shelves in place. Composed of chipboard chipboard cut to size, they disassemble easily, allowing easy cleaning. The vertical and horizontal edges of the furniture were pressed by heat-sealing; the veneer "wood" adopted here harmonizes the decoration of the songs with the drawers of the piece of furniture. Do not keep unplated songs: the humidity of the room and splashing water, common in a kitchen, may distort the panel.
Realization of the drawers and laying of the work plan
12. Carve the edges of the drawer by heat sealing. This operation is done using a veneer strip and an iron. Set the thermostat to the "wool" position, to ensure the adhesion of the hot melt glue. Run the iron in a regular and continuous manner (never immobilizing it on a spot). Then slap the mallet with a small piece of wood. The veneer strips are available in different widths, corresponding to the thickness of the wood. If necessary, level with a cutter.
13. The strips of the moldings are fixed on the front of the drawer (here clad in exotic wood) with man-headed points, nailed to the hammer. To avoid damaging the molding, prick the ends in a small piece of thick cardboard: it will dampen the hammer blows. Finish nailing the tip with the hammer tip; then chase it off with the nail chaser. The moldings can also be glued.
14. The front of the drawer is decorated with a wooden molding: cut it with a miter box and a saw backpack. A range of different shapes and colors offers a wide choice of styles. These moldings, sold at wood merchants, are available in sticks of 2 m.
15. A simple plywood box, assembled by nailing, constitutes the drawer. Hunt the man's head ends with the nail chaser. Plant the nails in the middle of the edge of the panels to avoid popping the veneer. Take precise measurements to obtain right angles and parallel sides.
16. Put the front of the drawers in place by gluing; use an ordinary vinyl glue. Tighten both parts with a clamp until the glue is completely dry. The facade has a height greater than that of the drawer: in fact, it is appropriate to reserve a place for the installation of the cleats holding the drawer on either side and allowing it to slide freely.
17. Screw wood slats to form the drawer guide rails. The plywood box must be able to slide unhindered between the two rails; plan a game of a few millimeters. Drown the heads of the screws so that they do not interfere with the operation of the drawer. Lightly smearing these rails by rubbing them with a square of dry soap, helps a lot and allows to maneuver them without noise.
18. A wooden batten attached to the upper edge of the uprights serves as a slider. Slide the drawer into its slot. There must be no friction between the different pieces of wood. In its central part, where the sink is embedded, the cabinet has a false drawer: the front of this "drawer" is represented by a molding and a button glued to the top of the door which, higher than the other two, covers the entire height of the furniture.
19. Secure the doors with spring hinges. These hinges allow the pivoting of the door and keep it in closed position. No need to put a magnetic latch. Put the hinge in position to locate the holes, and drill pilot holes using the square tip. Then screw the hinges securely. The doors, made of a veneered panel, are decorated with moldings (nailed as on the front of the drawers). The handle is fixed by gluing and nailing.
20. Set up the work plan consisting of a laminated panel. It must be very resistant to shock and heat because it will support various kitchen work. It is often necessary to make special cuts for the passage of gas or electricity pipes: use a handsaw or a fine-toothed saw. The recesses for recessing the devices will be made by jigsaw.
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