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Make a fir planter

This planter is made of fir planks 24 mm thick. Large and small sides are made using 3 planks, held along triangular cleats placed in reinforcements angles. These cleats ensure consequently the junctions large side - small side. Two T-shaped feet support the construction slightly above the ground She welcomes the plants in their pot. Indeed, it was not planned by the form and the material, to deposit the earth in the bottom.
Two round bars (30 mm in diameter) acting as handles are passed through the high elements of the short sides and the corresponding parts of the feet; they are locked in place.

Necessary material

  • Bell saw
  • Compass
  • square
  • Plane
  • Clamps
  • Pencil
  • Handsaw
  • Jigsaw
  • Drill
  • Round grater
  • Flat file
  • Hammer

Steps

  1. Preparation of long sides
  2. Small sides
  3. Bottom and holding cleats
  4. The feet
  5. Handles
  6. Locking pins

Preparation of long sides

Chamfering the boards

Chamfering the boards

1. To make each of the long sides, you need three fir planks of the same length (60 cm) and the same width (8 cm). Slash their edges to the plane to get this slight rounded decorative.

Material list

Number of piecesMaterialDimensions in mm
Big sides
6Fir60 x 8 x 24
Small sides
6Fir60 x 8 x 24
Background
1Plywood55x25x15
feet
2Fir40 x 25 x 2
handles
2Round wood15 x 30 of Ø
4 triangular cleats
4 cleats
Nails, impregnation product

Bring together the three elements

Bring together the three elements

2. Temporarily gather the three boards singing against edge with a clamp. You will be able to draw the location of the corner cleats and the bottom at one time.

Spot locations

Spot locations

3. Mark the location of the triangular batten (taking into account the thickness of the boards on the short side) as well as the location of the bottom (taking into account the cleats that will come from below).

First fixing of the corner cleat

First fixing of the corner cleat

4. The large and small sides are held by means of triangular cleats, two of whose sides form a right angle. They are placed in corner reinforcement to ensure the joining of the sides.

Nail the cleat from the outside

Nail the cleat from the outside

5. The length of each batten is equal to the added widths of the planks (3 X 8 cm) plus the two intervals (about 1.5 cm each): you will deduce from this total length the thickness of the plywood bottom (15 cm). mm) plus the frame of cleats coming from below (30 mm). They are nailed from the outside.

Small sides

Draw the short sides

Draw the short sides

6. The short sides are also made of three planks of the same width as those used for the production of long sides (8 cm). To give the gardener its final shape, we drew the small sides in gradient, so that they shrink down. To do this, combine the three elements against each other, with a clamp, and draw the oblique lines that will serve as a guide for cutting. Make sure, of course, that the symmetry is perfect.

Cut according to the layout

Cut according to the layout

7. Cut the short sides at one time with a handsaw. Work slowly while remaining outside the cut line.

Cut the passage of the handle

Cut the passage of the handle

8. After cutting the three elements and before assembly, drill the upper element for the subsequent passage of the handle. For convenience, use a hole saw.

Secure the short sides

Secure the short sides

9. The three elements forming the short sides are then nailed to the second face of the triangular corner cleat on the side perpendicular to that where the long sides are fixed. You see that the tight space allows the small side to flush the edge of the big side.

Breaking down the angles

Breaking down the angles

10. Cut the corners of the small side-long side junction at the same angle as the previously chamfered edges. Work with a handsaw.

Bottom and holding cleats

Put the bottom in place

Put the bottom in place

11. The bottom of the planter is cut from a plywood board 15 mm thick (CTBX, external quality, that is to say, resistant to moisture). Turn over the planter. Put the bottom in place so that it rests on the lower edge of the corner cleats. He must exactly fit into his dwelling, if the calculations are correct; otherwise, you will have to rectify the dimensions.

Fix the support frame

Fix the support frame

12. A frame of cleats (30 X 30 mm section) is fixed under the bottom, against the inside of the sides. This is why it was necessary to predict the thickness when drawing and fixing the triangular batten.

Araser corner cleats

Araser corner cleats

13. Now put the planter back in place and trim off the corner brackets that may protrude a little.

The feet

Trace your feet

Trace your feet

14. Feet are T-shaped. Use a compass and a square to draw their drawing on one of the two boards.
When tracing, consider the following three points:
• the hole drilled on the upper level faces the one made in the top element of each small side;
• the lower rounds, which initiate the horizontal bar of the T, are slightly below the bottom of the planter;
• The horizontal edge (in contact with the ground) must have the width of the planter as its length.

Cut out the feet

Cut out the feet

15. The cut of the feet is done there too by superimposing the two elements in order to obtain a perfect symmetry. Both boards are held tightly with a clamp. Work on the jigsaw while staying outside the line.

Sand the body of the gardener

Sand the body of the gardener

16. Before continuing assembly of the last elements, sand the body of the planter with a fine sandpaper. It is simpler to do it at this time, rather than after laying the feet and the handle...

Handles

Drill round bars

Drill round bars

17. The handles are made in round bar sections of 30 mm diameter. They must pass through the holes made at the upper level of the sides and in the top of the feet. The round bars are drilled to accommodate locking pins that hold the feet against the planter. They must be held firmly in a workbench.

Enlarge the hole

Enlarge the hole

18. The hole is then gradually enlarged with a round rasp (rat's tail) and then with a flat file. To get a good job, it is imperative that these bars are always held firmly.

Cut the handles

Cut the handles

19. The length of the handles corresponds to the width of the hand, plus the thickness of the foot of the planter increased by the thickness of the side, about 15 cm. Work with a handsaw.

Locking pins

Draw the locking pins

Draw the locking pins

20. The dowels integrate into the holes of the handles, and thus contribute to make all the elements integral (planter, foot and handle). They have a trapezoid shape. Their height is calculated so that they are flush with the upper round of the foot. They are cut in a plywood drop.

Block the handles

Block the handles

21. Put the handle in place, its end, located in the short side, is held by a nail.

Put the ankles in place

Put the ankles in place

22. The locking pin is inserted in its housing and blocked with light hammer blows. Its trapezoidal shape allows it to stay in place without the need for further assembly reinforcement, and at the same time to emphasize the rustic appearance of the construction.

Pass an impregnation product

Pass an impregnation product

23. We have covered the exterior and interior of the planter with an impregnating product that protects the wood against insects and moisture. This is a tinting product that will dispense with staining and varnishing or painting the wood.

(photos / visuals: © DIY-Prod, except special mention)

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