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Make a separation of plaster tiles

Separate a room by including an access door in the partition, can be realized without difficulty with plaster tiles, ordinary (white) for room dry or water-repellent (blue or green) for bathroom or room susceptible of humidity more or less accentuated. The assembly, very simple with broken joints, with a special glue, based on plaster, is also very fast, given the size of the tiles: 66 cm x 50 cm. It is also an opportunity to pass water or electricity pipelines in compliance with the standards enacted. However, be careful of the weight of the partition depending on the support, especially in floor.

Necessary material

  • Mason Rule
  • Rope
  • Bubble level
  • Metre
  • Wood saw
  • Plaster saw
  • Miter box with hacksaw
  • Trowel
  • Spatula
  • trowel
  • Drill
  • Auge
  • Hammer

Steps

  1. Measure and trace the partition
  2. Laying the resilient tape
  3. Setting up the door
  4. Laying of the first plaster tiles
  5. Laying of the following gypsum blocks
  6. Finishes of the partition

Measure and trace the partition

Draw the mark of the partition on the ground

Draw the mark of the partition on the ground

1. Place your meter on the ground and draw a mark on the ground, where you want to build your partition. Reproduce the same gestures near the opposite wall.

Draw a line to the line to materialize the partition on the right

Draw a line to the line to materialize the partition on the right

2. Place the end of the chalk line on the first mark, unroll it, extend it to the second mark and then slap it to the ground to mark the straight line of the partition. Measure the width of the door frame using a meter, mark this measurement on the path where you want to put the door and trace the markers.

Installation features of the partition

Installation features of the partition

3. Next, materialize the installation lines of the partition on the walls. Place the bricklayer's rule against the wall, aligned with the laying line on the ground, and place the bubble level on the ruler in order to have a perfect balance. Draw the line with a pencil, extending a few millimeters on the ceiling. Do the same on the opposite wall. To finish, stretch the chalk from one marker to the other and click it to draw the laying line on the ceiling.

Report the measurement of the thickness of a plaster tile on the ground

Report the measurement of the thickness of a plaster tile on the ground

4. Measure the thickness of a plaster tile and mark this measurement on the ground, from the laying line, draw a mark. Do the same thing at the foot of the opposite wall. Stretch the chalk line from one marker to another and slap it to the ground.

Materialize the second line of pose

Materialize the second line of pose

5. Then materialize the second laying line on the walls. Place the mason's rule against the wall, aligned with the second laying line on the ground, and level the bubble level on the ruler to have a perfect level of confidence. Draw the line with a pencil extending a few millimeters on the ceiling. Do the same on the opposite wall. To finish, stretch the chalk from one marker to the other and click it to draw the laying line on the ceiling.

Laying the resilient tape

Trowel glue and water to obtain a homogeneous mixture

Trowel glue and water to obtain a homogeneous mixture

1. Prepare the glue according to the dosages on the packaging. Put water in the trough, pour in the glue and mix carefully with the trowel until you have a homogeneous mixture.

Lay the glue on the ceiling with the spatula

Lay the glue on the ceiling with the spatula

2. Take glue with the spatula and set it on the platter. Apply glue approximately every 20 cm between the two laying lines of the ceiling, using the spatula. Place the resilient tape between the two lines along the entire length of the ceiling and lightly press down to adhere to the glue.

Setting up the door

Draw a cut line on the frame 1 cm from the bottom of the door

Draw a cut line on the frame 1 cm from the bottom of the door

1. Using the square, draw a line of cut on the frame 1 cm from the bottom of the door and saw following this line. Do the same thing on the other side. Place the door where you want it to be, between the two marks previously marked on the floor.

Secure the door by fastening a cleat on each side of the frame to hold it in place

Secure the door by fastening a cleat on each side of the frame to hold it in place

2. Secure the door with a bracket on each side of the frame to keep it in place. Check the verticality and horizontality of the door by placing the bubble level on the side as well as on the top of the frame. Adjust the plumb of the door by adding a shim if necessary.

Laying of the first plaster tiles

Measure the distance between the door frame and the wall with a meter

Measure the distance between the door frame and the wall with a meter

1. Measure the distance between the door frame and the wall using a meter. Put this measurement on the base, place it in the miter box and cut on the mark with a saw. Place the soleplate on the ground, between the two laying lines, and place a bracket
, in the angle of the frame of the door and the sole... Screw the square into the door frame and then drill the ground through the soleplate. Insert a peg into the hole with a hammer. Install a second dowel, in the same way, in order to solidify the support of the sole. Repeat the same gestures on the other side of the door.

Fold the ends of the mounting tabs of the frame at 90°

Fold the ends of the mounting tabs of the frame at 90°

2. Using a multi-pliers, bend the ends of the door frame mounting tabs 90°. Also bend the anchors to seal them in the plaster tiles. Place the tab on the side of the tile, aligning the folded end with the edge of the tile and draw a pencil mark at the anchors. Using the saw, make a cut on the side of the tile, in its thickness to allow the passage of the paw.

Glue the frame of the door

Glue the frame of the door

3. Glue the door frame with the spatula then slide the tile into the base and press it into the glue of the frame. Then glue the top of the tile and place the sealing tab in the angle formed by the tile and the frame. Adhere the tab in the glue and screw it into the frame using a drill.

Glue the edge of the tile already laid and the wall between the two laying lines

Glue the edge of the tile already laid and the wall between the two laying lines

4. To finish the first line, you will most likely have to cut a tile. Measure the distance between the laid tile and the wall. Carry this measurement on a tile, draw a mark and cut with a saw. Glue the edge of the tile already laid and the wall between the two laying lines. Slip your cut into the sole, between the already laid tile and the wall, then remove the excess glue with the spatula. Glue the top of the tile and repeat the same gestures for the first row of tiles on the other side of the door.

Laying of the following gypsum blocks

Start the second line from the door frame

Start the second line from the door frame

1. Start the second line from the door frame using the drop of a laid tile if it is at least 20 cm. Place the tile on the first line and press it into the glue of the door frame. Paste the top of the tile, fi x the sealing tab, cut a tile to fi nish the line, insert it and clean the excess glue. Do the same thing on the other side of the door as well as for other tile lines.

Fold the resilient band around the top corner of the door

Fold the resilient band around the top corner of the door

2. Once the door is stable, remove the retaining cleats to continue laying tiles. At about 20 cm from the top of the frame, glue the wood and lay the resilient tape. Bend the strip at 90° so that it surrounds the two upper corners.

The last pose line

Measure the distance from the top of the last row of tiles to the ceiling

Measure the distance from the top of the last row of tiles to the ceiling

1. Measure the distance from the top of the last row of tiles to the ceiling. Carry this measurement on a tile by removing two centimeters to facilitate installation. Draw the marks and saw the tile. Glue the top edge of the last row of tiles and the wall, then place your cut tile and remove excess glue with a spatula.

Measure the necessary cuts for the angle of the frame of the door frame

Measure the necessary cuts for the angle of the frame of the door frame

2. Measure the cutouts needed for the frame angle of the door frame, place these measurements on a tile, mark and saw. Glue the slice of the previous tiles, but not the resilient tape, lay the cut tile, then remove the excess glue. Do the same to finish the last row of tiles on the other side of the door. Measure, measure, saw, glue, apply and clean.

Finishes of the partition

Coat all the parts to be filled with the spatula

Coat all the parts to be filled with the spatula

1. Pour water into the trough and pour the glue / plaster mixture (50% glue and 50% plaster). Mix with a spatula until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Using the spatula and the cutter, coat all the parts to be filled, there should be no empty space on the partition. Flatten the mixture thoroughly and remove excess trowel.

Lay the strip on the plaster at the angle

Lay the strip on the plaster at the angle

2. Once the joints are dry, bend the pattern band inward. Apply plaster in the corner formed by the ceiling and the partition then lay the strip on the plaster at the angle and tighten it. Remove the excess trowel and reposition the door.

(photos / visuals: © Castorama, except special mention)

On the same topic

  • DIY tips
    • How to use and install plaster tiles
    • How to saw an Ikebana® plasterboard
  • products
    • Folding sliding door unit for partition walls Navibloc® Placo®
    • Ready-to-use plaster Goldband (Knauf)

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