- Necessary material
- Adapt the staircase to the constraints of the place
- Ensure the stability of the stairs
- Assembling the console
- Machining stair elements
- Cutting steps
- Assembly of the stairs
- Essential tools for making a wooden and metal staircase
More practical and safer than a ladder, this staircase fits easily in the corner of a room. As in this garage, whose floor space is clear to park a car and make a workshop area.
- Gun for chemical sealing
- Socket wrench
- Circular saw on rail
- Eccentric sander
- Welding machine
- Angle grinder
- Douglas wood on ep. 34 and 54 mm
- 40 x 40 mm steel tube
- Flat iron 4 x 40 mm
- Dominoes 10 x 50 mm
- Assembly slats n° 20
- Wood screw 3,5 x 50 mm
- Self-drilling screws 4 x 50 mm
- Threaded rod and nuts Ø 12 mm
- Sieve and cartridge for chemical sealing
- Wood glue
Cost: 600 €
Time: 1 week
If a ladder is mobile, it is not the case for a staircase. And if it encroaches on the piece, it is imperative that there is no pole! This is the case with this quarter-turn staircase in Douglas pine and metal. It provides access to a door opening on attic and leaves room for parking a vehicle.
Adapt the staircase to the constraints of the place
Its upper part rests on a welded pipe structure, composed of two consoles connected by longitudinal members. This metal structure also makes it possible to secure the two posts of the railing in the extension of the daylight silt (opposite to the wall stringer). The presence of the rampant did not allow place the landing at the door. It was therefore necessary to pose an independent step at the foot of the opening. In addition to floor space to preserve, the use of welded metal tubes and the installation of smooth rails parallel to the silt have made savings without compromising on safety.
Ensure the stability of the stairs
The essence retained here is the Douglas pine, a hard and inexpensive hardwood. It is proposed in panels of large dimensions, which destines it to the manufacture of a staircase. This essence is ideal for marches subjected to severe test especially when they are not reinforced by risers.
To stiffen the structure, we place at an angle, under the steps, small diameter screw (or man head points), so as to fix them in the grooves.
As for the attachment of the console, it is done by chemical sealing in the hollow brick of the wall.
Assembling the console
- The 40 x 40 mm tubes and the flat iron of 4 x 40 mm are cut long.
- Grind a chamfer at the ends to increase the contact area of the weld seams.
- Tighten both brackets of the console, superimpose them to obtain equal elements.
- Point the pieces (place some solder points at the links).
- Place the rails between the brackets and the flat irons to fix the wooden posts, point and solder the links.
- Cut off the weld seams with a grinder.
Machining stair elements
- On the silts, trace the grooves for the steps.
- Use a false-square to get a constant angle.
- Hatch the parts to dig or cut to avoid mistakes.
- Fabricate a machining template by attaching two side guides and two stops to a thin panel. The path guides the sole of the router.
- Dig grooves to 15 mm.
- After making the grooves with a straight cutter Ø 30 mm, cut the silts long with a circular saw mounted on a guide rail.
- Wedge the top corners of the scissor grooves to contain the top edges of the steps (the lower edges will be machined in quarter-round).
- Present the poles against the ends of the daylime.
- Trace at an angle the extension of the grooves and the axes of the links by domino between posts and silt.
- Machine the mortice centered in the thickness of the stringers and poles (domino bur Ø 10 x 50 mm).
- Use trunnions, lag screws or wood screws.
- Assemble blank to mill the extension of the grooves containing the step (# 4) and the upper bearing (# 13).
- Use the same router setting and the same template.
- Place the handrail and the intermediate smooth on the poles to trace length and location. The height of a ramp must be 90 cm above the stride line.
- After cutting smooth and handrail at the miter saw, trace the assembly axes domino (or pin): two dominoes (10 x 50 mm) at each end of the ramp.
- Glue joints between daylight, posts, handrail, smooth and add dominoes (or trunnions).
- Spread the vinyl glue with a toothbrush.
- The inclination of the joints and the length of the silt make tightening difficult. A double clamp designed to clamp in two perpendicular directions is ideal.
To avoid investing in a special clamp, simply place a first clamp on the piece placed at an angle. It thus forms an abutment through which a second clamp can perform the clamping between the two parts.
- After drying the glue, machine a quarter-round on the ramp and the rails with a pilot bur. The cutter is mounted on a ripper or trimming machine, more manageable.
- Cut the steps before planing them to the desired thickness (30 mm).
- The bearings and the wide pieces (riser # 3) need to stick several pieces singing against singing.
- A MATCHED (or splice) to the top allows to assemble pieces of the same thickness, increasing the bonding surface. Assembly slats are also used.
- Prepare panels to the desired width by placing the pieces of wood edge to edge.
- Spot their respective locations.
- Glue the songs.
- Tighten the glued panels using either dead clamps or a panel press. These two clamping systems prevent the panel from lifting under the pressure exerted and ensure their flatness.
- The bearings have notches made with a jigsaw, to contain the section of the posts and the upper end of the wall slime, well anchored in the wall of the room.
- Profiler lower edges steps to be built into the grooves.
- Use a 15 mm radius quarter-round milling cutter on a router or portable router.
- The first two steps are independent of the rest of the structure. They are assembled on their support.
- Take slats for an invisible assembly or screw.
Rails, screwed on the underside against the rear edge of the first steps, allow to close the volume and facilitate the maintenance of the ground.
Assembly of the stairs
- Steps, stringers and risers are glued.
- The third riser serves as support for the first landing, it is posed before the introduction of the silts and steps.
- The first level is placed on cleats screwed against the walls and on the third riser, in front of which the first steps are screwed against the wall.
- The silt rests on the first landing and on a forestay to adjust its inclination.
- After locating the anchor points and drilling, the silt is chemically sealed and threaded rods.
- The base of the upper groove of the silt determines the height of the console.
- It is fixed in five points against the wall by threaded rod and chemical sealing.
The ends of the threaded rods, sharp and unattractive, must be leveled by grinding, after tightening the nuts. To prevent rust, they can be protected with a varnish.
- Unlike usual use, the setting up steps in the silt is done here from the top: the upper post is supported by the console during the operation.
- The last step land on the landing in front of the attic door. Built as a bench, with two sides supporting the step and a bracing riser.
- The bearing is placed on the console and screwed on the tubes with self-tapping screws.
- Fix the post against the wall, then assemble by domino the rails and poles of the bodyguard.
- Screw the bases of the posts against the decks of the console.
- Screws 3.5 x 50 mm placed at an angle fix the steps in the grooves and limit the deformation of the silt.
Essential tools for making a wooden and metal staircase
Hard to do without one workshop planer, unless you order already planed wood to the desired thickness.
Other tools needed: a circular saw and an ripper portable enough to cut 50 mm thick pieces and machine grooves 30 mm wide. No other tool is needed.
Router, slat milling machines or dominoes can be made by mortise and tenon with a hand saw and a chisel, or connections by screws, lag bolts, pins... In the absence of drill and screwdriver, we can also fix the wall lime with tabs to seal and replace the screws with spikes.