This furniture is made of a set of independent modules that can be assembled in various ways depending on the desired decoration and the available space. The basic structure of each of the modules is identical, which makes it easy and quick to make this wall cabinet made of 19 mm thick chipboard and 5 mm plywood for the bottoms.
For modules with shelves, holes drilled with regular spaces and receiving plastic keys can change the height of the shelves. The partitions placed in the cabinet reserved for your old vinyl collections facilitate their storage and especially hold them vertically. Finally, the radiator cover, which it is better to incorporate in the library to save space and perfect the aesthetics.
- Metal square
- Folding Meter
- Nails or twisted tips
- Circular saw
- Bell saw
- crank shaft
- Piano hinge
- Threaded screws
- metal saw
- Tendril or square tip
- Plastic keys
- Magnetic latches
- Glass wool
- Iron-on songs
- Vinyl glue
- Spring-loaded hinges
- Metal spacer compasses
- Rider nails
- Basic structure
- Door manufacturing
- Making a bar
- Radiator cover
1. This wall unit consists of a number of elements made according to the same principle of extremely simple assembly: flat-joint gluing with trunnion reinforcement. The sides of the various elements vary only in the direction of the depth, those of the bottom having 10 cm more than those of the top (shelving). Sizing is done with a good vinyl glue. If the material is very porous, a second layer may be necessary.
2. The second panel is placed in position and fixed temporarily with long nails, which are not fully inserted, so that they can then be removed easily. A simple assembly by gluing and nailing is possible, but much less solid than a trunnion assembly. Indeed, because of its internal structure, the agglomerate "holds" the nail badly, which pulls easily (there are, however, special twisted tips that are well suited to agglomerates and allow to perform a suitable job). To work more conveniently, one of the panels is here fixed between the jaws of the bench-vise. The temporarily nailed panel is not securely assembled and it is good to rest its other end on a shim (another panel) to continue the work.
3. Proper squaring is necessary to make a trunnion connection. A metal square is here fixed with a clamp, to maintain the two panels at right angles. Three pins per assembly may suffice, but this number can be increased when one wants to make a larger module. The diameter of the hole (and therefore of the wick) must correspond to that of the trunnion and its depth be slightly greater (by 2 mm).
4. Push in the pins with the hammer after brushing glue into the holes. The trunnions should not be forced, but simply adjusted exactly (if the hole is too narrow, you can let a little bit the inside wick to enlarge). In order for the glue to not accumulate at the bottom of the hole, the trunnion must be fluted.
5. Tear off the temporary nails (to avoid damaging the panel, place a board under the pliers). When all four sides of the module are securely fastened, secure the bottom (plywood panel) by simple nailing (normal nails or twisted tips).
6. The basic structure of the module will be further strengthened.
7. The door of each element consists of a plywood panel cut with a circular saw or controlled at the flow rate. To open the door, as a handle, drill a hole of 4 or 5 cm. You can also put a metal handle. Locate the place to drill on the panel. If the furniture needs to be placed high, drill at the bottom of the door.
8. To drill the hole, use a hole saw (drill accessory) of the desired diameter. If you have a vertical support for mounting the drill stationary, drilling will be facilitated. Start drilling on the outside (facing of the door). So that the veneer does not burst on the inside (counter-siding), it is advisable to place a piece of wood at the time of drilling. If your drill has multiple speeds, set it to the smallest. To drill this hole, it is also possible to use a crankshaft with a suitable drill (helical, for example).
9. There are several possible solutions for closing the doors. Here they are spring-loaded hinges that not only rotate the door, but keep it closed. It is therefore unnecessary to provide any closure (magnetic latch, for example) which is however essential with conventional hinges. There are also spring hinges called "hidden hinges", comprising a metal part and a plastic part, which must be embedded in the walls. Carefully locate on the sides of the box the locations (symmetrical, of course) of the hinges.
10. Position the spring hinge and locate the holes to be drilled for the screws. It is necessary to carefully drill a pilot hole at the spin or square tip. It should be well adapted to the diameter of the screw. Fully threaded screws (without base) will hold better in the chipboard.
11. Screw in the hinge. Note that you should never force the end of screwing to avoid screwing empty. To ensure greater strength, you can use nylon sleeves, which have the same function as dowels in a wall.
12. Do the same for the door, making sure to wedge it exactly before drilling the pilot holes.
13. Storage unit shelves must be adjustable in height. The best solution is to drill a series of holes in front and behind the side panels, holes that will receive keys (here plastic) on which will rest the shelves. To identify the location of the holes, a piece of wood bearing markers will serve as a freelance.
14. Then drill blind holes. To drill straight, easier, and especially with precision work with a vertical drill stand. With a hand-held portable drill, it is necessary to use a depth stop that will allow the blind holes to be made without the risk of crossing the wood. If you drill at the chignole or crankshaft, make a depth guide by sliding a small plastic tube of the desired length on the wick.
15. The same work must be done on both vertical sides. Then insert the small keys that are easy to move to change the height of the shelf.
16. When it is desired to obtain a large number of compartments separated by thin partitions (here 5 mm thick), to achieve, as here, a disk rack, it is necessary to dig grooves in the upper panels and lower. You can dig them with a circular saw, unless you have a router. In solid wood, it is also possible to use a bouvet, but it's a pretty difficult job. Carefully adjust the cutting height of the saw blade to dig a groove to the desired depth (5 mm).
17. Dig the grooves. It is necessary to choose a wide track blade to avoid too many passes to result in a groove equivalent to the thickness of the plywood partitions. A cutting guide is essential to saw properly: use a cleat that you fix with clamps and move for successive passes.
18. When all grooves are hollow, thread the partitions. They must separate the narrow spaces to maintain a good verticality of the vinyls, otherwise the pockets deform quickly.
Making a bar
19. To fit a bar element, with a flap door, the shelf (s) must be held more securely. The fixing can be final, it is not necessary to use keys. The glass shelf, for example, will have a width equal to half the depth of the element. Fasten it with pins after gluing. The location of the shelf is drawn on the outside of the side, and it is fixed temporarily with a nail. The drilling is done here also from the outside, the pins being concealed by the other modules.
20. To close the door, use one or more magnetic latches. Carefully locate the position of both parts on the door and on the box. Then screw the catch in its place. Note that one can provide a particular finish for the bar door, which is intended to support, in the open position, bottles and glasses; laying on the inside of laminate is a very good thing. This compartment can also be converted into a secretary.
21. The most aesthetic solution for the opening of the door is the piano hinge fixed on the whole width of the element and the door. This type of hinge is purchased at a standard length and must then be cut to the dimensions of the piece of furniture (hacksaw). A copper or brass hinge will be more aesthetic. Mark the place of the screws by positioning the door and drill pilot holes using a spin. Then screw the hinge. This piano hinge is thin, it is not necessary to embed it in the wood.
22. To keep the door open at 90°, and also to use this door as a bar table, use metal spacer arms. There are slide compasses and articulated compasses. Some include a brake that prevents the pulling of the hinge in case of sudden fall of the flap. First, fix the compass inside the element and then on the lid. Wedge it to screw properly, without fear of pressing.
23. An element of modular furniture can serve as a radiator cover. Sinter panels are suitable for this purpose as long as they support heat well (unlike natural wood, which "works" with heat). This element, of course, will not have substance. The front panel consists of a wooden frame supporting a special grill that will let through the heat. To cut the wooden frame, use the electric drill two holes at the opposite corners of the quadrilateral to cut, which will engage the blade of the jigsaw. If you use a counter saw, it is necessary to drill a larger hole.
24. Cut the frame with a jigsaw taking care not to burst the veneer of the siding. Leave a hole to saw each side, and do not "turn" with the saw. Then turn the saw over to properly cut the corners where you have drilled the hole.
25. The screens used for the radiator covers have fine mesh (diamond). They are usually made of brass steel or brass. At the time of purchase, it is necessary to provide dimensions larger than the frame to be able to fix it. Cut it if necessary with a good pincer or shears. Secure the mesh against the inside of the frame with jumper nails (stainless, of course). A good stapler is also suitable for attachment. The mesh must be tight to avoid any deformation.
26. It is essential that the interior of the "radiator" compartment be isolated: on the one hand to limit heat loss, on the other hand to prevent overheating of particle board, but especially to promote heat radiation. To do this, use the specially designed material, consisting of a layer of glass wool and an aluminum coating (vapor barrier). Cutting is done with the cutter, aluminum side.
27. The insulation is laid with a special glue for glass wool, arranged by studs. We distinguish here the inclined plane which, after assembly, will be just above the radiator. It will promote the circulation of hot air. You will fix it by trunnions from the outside, like the bar shelf (see photo 19).
28. Before painting, it is necessary to coat the songs. Iron-on songs will suit perfectly.
29. For a very neat work, it is necessary to completely coat surfaces. The doors are here made of plywood, which, of finer aspect, can be dispensed with a coating application.
30. The front of the radiator cover must be easily removable to access the taps and... clean. Secure it with magnetic latches. Note that the radiator is painted black, which behind the grille makes it very discreet (it is also advisable to paint the back wall in black).
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