- Practical tip
- A crucial preparation
- Precise tracing before laying the picture rails
- Glued laying of moldings
- All stages of laying moldings:
Arranged in the form of panels, these ornaments animate the walls in the manner of a traditional paneling. Of two types, in staff and wood, they are here enhanced by a painting of the most beautiful effect. Simple to achieve, the pose requires especially care and method.
Perfectly adapted to modern partitions made of cardboard plasterboard, wooden moldings are more delicate to put on the old walls of a very random flatness. In this case, prefer a neoprene contact adhesive and strengthen the fixation with some points with a man's head.
If sockets or switches are particularly poorly placed, do not hesitate to incorporate them into the decor by painting them.
Our decor consists of high and low frames separated by a chair rail, and occupying the entire wall surface. The elements are mostly in staff, as much for the sake of cohesion with the plaster support as for their aesthetic qualities. They complement each other with wooden sticks, used to create a second frame inside the big ones.
Material of great decorative value, the staff is however expensive and the ornaments are sometimes available only on order (Atelier Sedap, Auberlet and Laurent, Knauf Isodeco...). The price of moldings can exceed 20 € / ml, the investment is considerable for a room like this, about 18 m2 and 3 m under ceiling, which required nearly 80 ml.
Polystyrene or polyurethane moldings are an already more affordable alternative. But the most interesting is to make his own by molding (casting plaster + tow) from a commercial model. The process is within the reach of a good handyman and its cost defies all competition!
A crucial preparation
First of all, it is necessary to carry out an accurate tracing (with the chalk line and the pencil) in order to calculate the necessary metric. This supposes carefully prepared surfaces. If necessary, for safety, apply a base hardener or a primer for plaster.
Start by delimiting the size of the picture rail, beating a line parallel to two lines all around the room: the first at 90 cm from the ground (average height of a base). These lines will serve as a reference for subsequent tracing. The only (relative) difficulty is to determine a standard width of panel allowing a coherent and harmonious distribution with the eye: the widths of walls are not necessarily multiples of this ideal dimension... Some tricks however are allowed to pull themselves complicated situations. For example, by playing on the width of the central pattern when a piece of wall accepts an odd number of panels.
We can also cheat to win or deduce a few millimeters here or there, without exaggerating, visual balance requires... A little "puzzle", this stage of reflection and calculation should not be retracted. Give him all the time to find an aesthetically acceptable compromise. The rest is a banal exercise of geometry consisting of drawing perpendiculars and parallels.
Precise tracing before laying the picture rails
Once you have reached a satisfactory division, make some markings on the layout of the chair rail to locate the vertical edges of the various frames. Trace them in pencil from floor to ceiling, using a ruler and a bubble level. Then draw two horizontal lines corresponding respectively to the base and the top of the upper panels: the first 10 cm above the chair rail, the second 14 cm under the cornice. Do the same for the underbody, but invert these data for a reason of symmetry. The top of the panels thus reaches 10 cm from the chair rail, while the bottom is positioned 14 cm from the plinth.
The top of the doors and possibly the underside of the windows are treated by simply aligning the sides of the panels to the overall width of the joinery. Thus traced with precision, the contours of the panels will facilitate the positioning of the moldings.
Glued laying of moldings
As for a classic frame, the moldings are cut at 45° in a miter box, using a fine-toothed saw. Be careful of taking measurements and pointing the cuts in the right direction!
The staff moldings are fixed to the adhesive mortar (type MAP), making sure to fill the corners and connections: the excess is eliminated as and when wet sponge. The wooden sticks are put down with a putty-adhesive in aqueous phase, packaged in cartridge. In both cases, we simply stick the back of the elements.
After drying, there are always small interstices between moldings (staff or wood) and masonry. You will close them easily with a smoothing coating (type "Telaliss" Toupret). Finish with a final sanding with medium grain abrasive (80 or 100). You will then be free to apply the decoration of your choice: by playing on paint gradients, by lining the inside of the panels...
All stages of laying moldings:
At each corner of the room, measure the height corresponding to the base of the chair rail.
Then, with a chalk line, beat a line marking the reference line that will be used for the rest of the plot.
Parallel to this line, draw in pencil the upper edge of the chair rail and locate the spacings between panels. Then, accurately, trace their vertical and horizontal edges.
Near a badly squared embrasure, a frequent occurrence in old buildings, it is better to draw parallel to the inclined edge. This will shock the eye less than a perfectly vertical line.
Little trick: when the frames are all drawn, enter the length of each side in the corresponding angle. This will make it easier for you to start cutting moldings.
On the reference line, all around the room, point a series of nails to prepare the installation of the chair rail. Once the glue has taken hold, you can remove them without difficulty.
The adhesive mortar is prepared in a small trough by pouring the powder into the water. Wait a few minutes before mixing with a spatula. The usage time is approximately one hour.
On the back of the chair rail, place a bead of glue on each edge and place it against the wall. Previously pointed nails will prevent it from slipping while waiting for the product to harden.
The staff moldings cut easily into a miter box with a saw to back. The experiment commands to work "while going", without wasting time looking for the fall of the desired length.
This removable "homemade" gutter facilitates the gluing of moldings, which lie flat. It is made in a drop angle screwed on a cradle plywood.
Separated from its support, the gutter makes it possible to present the moldings at the desired place without risk of accident. Charged with glue that weighs them down, the elements in staff become very brittle.
Remember to glue the fittings and angles. A wet sponge stroke (without excess) will remove the excess and prepare the finish, while facilitating the first sanding to be done.
The inevitable interstices between moldings and support are filled with smoothing plaster, passed with a knife. Be careful not to overload, and immediately clean any burrs.
The large panels are decorated with fine wooden sticks (12 mm) which double inside them. Make a cardboard template that you move to measure to outline their contours.
These small sticks are fixed by simple glue-adhesive glue cartridge. Being under no mechanical stress, it is not even necessary to point them to reinforce the bonding.
Take your time to position them well and keep the pressure for a few moments.
The role of concentric frames is to create well-lined surfaces to play with paint or material effects. In total, this decorative principle offers five possibilities of nuances or dressing.