Mount a plasterboard partition on a metal frame
In order to mount an interior partition wall or to create attics, plasterboard partitions are extremely practical and relatively easy to implement.
Tools and Materials Required:
A cutter and / or saw handsaw.
A hole saw (to drill the locations of the sockets / switches).
A metal ruler, square.
A spirit level.
A chalk line.
Rails and metal uprights (available from 36 to 90mm wide, depending on the desired thickness of the partition), in galvanized steel.
Insulation in panels or rolls.
Before use, the plates must be stored flat, indoors (they do not like humidity at all) and if possible raised above the ground (for example by placing them on evenly spaced cleats).
Step 1: Installing the rails
The rails serve as a guide and "frame" for the future partition. They are placed on the perimeter of the partition (floor, side walls and ceiling).
Partition structure: the rails must be placed with the utmost care. If they are not perfectly vertical along the side support walls, your partition will not be straight.
So take your measurements carefully and draw a line to the powder line where the rail will pass, then a second of the width of the rail to precisely define its future location on the ground.
Place the rail, drill and peg about every 50cm and screw.
From the one on the floor, mount the side rails. The simplest is to place the rail vertically, nested in the rail already fixed to the ground. Position it with the spirit level, then fix it to the wall (as for the floor rail: drill, then peg and screw). Repeat on the other side.
Step 2: Position the amounts.
Depending on the height of the wall, the desired resistance, or any other parameter (door, beam), the recommended spacing between studs may vary, it may also be necessary to double them. Place the uprights at the recommended intervals, then check with the spirit level that they are vertical, and screw them to the rails at their ends.
Step 3: Plasterboard installation (first side of the partition).
Plasterboard must not be in contact with the ground (to prevent moisture from entering).
Measure the floor-to-ceiling distance, and subtract 1cm.
If necessary, anticipate the positioning of any electrical boxes (it will be easier to cut the necessary locations before fixing the plate... and an error will not lead you to replace it), and cut them with the saw hole.
Place the plate against the frame, starting from one side and taking care to place a shim of 1cm on the ground (a fall will do the job).
Screw the plate against the frame using the self-drilling screws, every 30cm and at least 1cm from the edge of the plate.
Screw carefully (the screw head must not protrude, but must not pass through the plate) and repeat the operation over the entire width of the wall, on one side at first.
Step 4: sound, heat, and electricity insulation.
This step may not be necessary if it is a simple wall of separation, or if it will not carry any electrical box.
For plugs or switches, run the wires (electrical conduits) inside the wall (holes are provided for this purpose in the uprights), and have them go beyond where the boxes are.
For insulation, plate your panels between the studs, all the way up the wall. Do it as you go, just before placing the plates, so the insulation will be maintained in the process and will not slip.
Step 5: Plasterboard placement (other face).
Refer to Step 3, the principle is the same.
There are however some precautions to take according to the previous step: take care not to damage the possible electrical wires or and as to the positioning of the insulation.
Step 6: finishes
Install the electrical boxes alone, their facades will be installed after the finishes (paint, wallpaper).
It then remains to grout the plates together and to remove the screw heads. Apply a coat of plaster on the grooves between the plates, then a joint tape (the tape is useless to hide the screw heads). Re-apply a layer of plaster directly over the strip, pressing firmly, and smooth. After drying (one night), sand lightly then pass a last layer of plaster overflowing a few centimeters on both sides of the joint and then smooth carefully.