- Practical advice
- The cutting of the floor covering
- The settings
- You want to insulate your attic at € 1?
- The cut
- Screw the floor rail
- Adjust the cutting depth
- Perpendicular cuts
- Screw on the rail
- Continue the construction
It is easy to evaluate the depth of cut, but it is less obvious to find the thickness of the board to be inserted between the lamellar and the rail. Measure the distance from the underside of the soleplate to the top of the blade, then remove it from the necessary width. This is equivalent to the thickness of the plasterboard and the day of expansion. Do not look for the little beast, this gap will be hidden by the skirting board.
Mounting a partition wall made of plasterboard is common. But if the floor is covered with laminate or floating floors, things get a bit complicated... No question of anchoring the frame, or cut the coating to the cutter like a carpet or a vinyl. To get by, an unexpected tool: the lamelleuse!
The cutting of the floor covering
Cutting tools for laying the laminate can not be used (except the auxiliary jigsaw) to resize once in place. So we used the laminator as a mini circular saw, guiding it against the floor rail of the partition.
● The assembly of this type of partition usually starts with the cutting of the floor covering. The metal frame (sleepers and uprights) is then installed. Here, it is the opposite: the floor rail is first fixed on the laminate, it will cut. Some self-drilling screws are enough.
● When the rail is too short, fill it with a drop (or another rail for the long lengths) and then align the two elements by sliding an amount inside. If an opening is provided, mark in pencil its location: do not screw the rail to preserve the continuity of the ground in the door step!
Adjust the depth of cut of the laminator to the thickness of the laminate, increased by one or two tenths of a millimeter. Too bad if the underlayment is a little started, the laminate must be frankly cut.
● The distance between the rail and the kerf (included) corresponds to the thickness of the plasterboard (10 or 13 mm), plus the few millimeters required for the expansion of the laminate. To adjust the approach, you will insert between the machine and the profile a board of appropriate thickness.
You want to insulate your attic at € 1?
Test your eligibility by filling out the form below:
Saw from wall to wall, sliding the board along the rail. Move the machine in opposition to the cutting direction to avoid losing control. Repeat the operation on the other side of the rail, then remove the rail.
● Since the laminator can not reach the walls, the cut ends with the jigsaw. Place the machine on the nose, its blade flush with the wall (without hitting it) and out to the maximum. Start, then switch gradually until you cross the laminate, avoiding too much damage to the underlayment and the support. Keeping the incline, move the saw to join the cut line of the lamellar.
● If necessary, finish with chisel and mallet. Namely: the laminate dulls the edge and its MDF core degrades into sheets when the tool cuts badly. Sharpen it often. To go under a plinth, drill Ø 2.5 mm holes and finish with a narrow chisel.
● Is there a door in the partition? Raise the lamellar closer to the future opening, avoiding biting on it. Then cut perpendicularly on both sides, plunging the machine, without exceeding the width required. Finish as before with jigsaw and chisel.
● After removing the laminate drop (s), insert the rail and secure it through the underlayment to take advantage of its sound and heat qualities. You can then complete the framework and install the drywall.
Screw the floor rail
The floor rail is temporarily screwed into the laminate. If it is in two parts, hold them end to end by inserting an amount. Do not push screws into the doorway.
Adjust the cutting depth
The depth of cut is adjusted to the thickness of the laminate. Without being able to locate you on a fall of the covering, you will adjust it at the beginning by increasing it progressively.
To obtain the thickness of the board to be inserted between the machine and the floor rail, measure the distance separating the top of the blade from the baseplate. As a precaution, unplug the machine.
Plate the board with the fingertips against the sole of the lamellar and guide the assembly against the rail. Work in opposition to the cutting direction, and hold the machine firmly.
Finish the ends with the jigsaw. The machine, held nose down, is tilted gradually into the laminate, then moved to join the previous cut. Watch out for the wall!
The perpendicular cuts on both sides of the door are roughed up with a plunging dive, chased with a jigsaw and finished with a chisel. Watch for the sharpness of the cutting edge.
Screw on the rail
The rail is screwed through the underlayment to benefit from its isophonic qualities. If the support is made of chipboard, screw directly. Otherwise, use suitable dowels.
Continue the construction
The rest of the construction takes place in the usual way: completion of the framework, laying plasterboard on both sides by inserting an insulator, mounting the door, coating...