Stripping of the metal can be done by three different means: chemical means: strippers; mechanical means: scrapers, manual or drill brushes; thermal medium: electric heat gun or gas torch equipped with a suitable nozzle. Moreover, it is sometimes necessary to use the three to achieve a complete stripping of the metal. In view of the means employed, it is necessary to ensure the appropriate means of protection: gloves, glasses, clothing.
- Brush for stripper
- Protective gloves
- Screwdriver (old)
- Brass brush
- Drill brushes
- Triangular scraper
- Blade scraper
- Painter's knife
- Protective glasses
- Thermal cleaner
- Gas torch
- Insulating gloves
- Metal stripper
- Thermal pickling
1. Apply the paint remover thoroughly with a flat brush whose width will match the surface to be stripped. Prefer a gel product that will not run on vertical surfaces and will stay in place for as long as it takes effect.
2. Let the product work. You will see him soften the paint and then make it blister and finally take off in places. During the 10 minutes it takes to produce these effects, coat a nearby surface and organize your site.
3. Use a painter's knife or spatula to scrape the raised and damaged paint from the paint stripper. If you have several layers of paint or minium (red paint that appears underneath, a second stripper may be necessary) In front of a building site of this type, it is better to spread the product after the first scraping so as to still benefit from the effects of the first degradation.
4. Scrape away any paint residue left in crevices with an old screwdriver; do the same for any traces of rust or rust completely formed.
5. A brass brush with soft bristles also makes it possible to reach these difficult-to-access parts and to eliminate the remains of rust and / or paint.
6. To brush flat parts, use a round brush mounted on a drill (with variator if possible) so that the speed can be adjusted according to the progress of the work and the nature of the elements to be stripped. A speed too slow gives only few results but a speed too fast can, either too dirty the brush with the paint that it warms up, or too polish the bare metal which will not offer sufficient attachment to a new protection.
7. Mount on your drill, a rotating metal brush in the form of a disc to reach narrow areas, especially between projecting parts (welding on wrought iron scrolls). Do not hesitate to wear safety glasses to avoid the risk of receiving brush wear scum.
8. If you are using a round type thumb brush with particularly stiff and dense threads, hold the drill firmly or it may slip easily.
9. Use a triangular scraper to reach the remaining paint and rust in the inside corners where they accumulate over layers.
10. You can also use a hard wire brush but for flat surfaces. Hold the brush in your hand so that you do not get hurt with the wires in case you miss it.
11. You can also use an interchangeable blade scraper which is an excellent alternative to a painter's knife on already degraded paint.
12. For a metal support taken more or less by rust, there is a treatment that uses rust to create, by chemical reaction, a protective shell that only needs to be covered with a conventional system. rust and paint finish. It is however preferable, on a very attacked support, to remove the very rusty and degraded parts in order to start again on a solid support. Dust off after vigorous scrubbing and coat the product (it darkens the rust) spread with a brush. Let it dry for 12 hours and pass a layer of precautionary rust and paint
1. If flame stripping is used, mount a stripping nozzle to work over a wide area and concentrate heat on it. Under his action, the painting softens immediately. Be careful to take into account the heat of the metal of the burner head or the nozzle itself if you change it during work!
2. Make sure to tighten the nozzle retaining screw as it will be dangerous for it to unclog while working.
3. Set the flow rate so that the flame is quite short and blue.
4. Heat and scrape simultaneously, avoiding overflowing the paint. It is prudent to wear insulating gloves but especially not rubber. Same note when using an electric heat gun.
(photos / visuals: © DIY-Prod, except special mention)
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