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To make a rosebush, begin by loosening the soil thoroughly.

To make a rosebush, begin by loosening the soil thoroughly.

The planting roses, more favorable during the winter months, is an operation that fears, however, the gel. It is therefore necessary, during the frosty periods, to refrain from planting them but we can put them in gauge in a sheltered place waiting for a more favorable period. The plantation itself responds to specific operations such dressing roots, pralinage, end size or watering bowl. It will also be necessary staking and trellising for climbing roses.

Steps

  1. Planting time
  2. Ground preparation
  3. Care before planting
  4. Grounding
  5. After planting
  6. Before setting up climbing roses
  7. The presentation in container

Planting time

The ideal time of planting a rose bush corresponds to that of itsvegetative restthat is to say, in our climate, from the end of October to the end of March (more or less depending on the region). Only roses in containers or clumps protected by a tontine can be replanted until May. To ensure a good flowering in the first year, it is best to plant early, at the end of autumn. The advantage of this early flowering is offset by the risk of frost that can compromise the recovery of the plant. However, if the winter is mild, you will obtain from May or June a vigorous plant, more able to resist diseases and parasites.
If the reception of the plants takes place by freezing weatherplastic packages that generally protect the roots of commercial rose bushes should be loosened and tonnage ; dig a trench and lay the roses there, heads to the south. Fill this trench with horticultural soil; the head of the rose bushes can be butted. The roses thus arranged are kept for several weeks (up to two months) before planting.
If, after ordering, the roses come to you with a lot of delay, in parcels in bad state (bags punctured), or with plants in bad form (wrinkled bark, brittle roots, bleached or dried shoots), do not hesitate not to emit all stocksfrom the carrier and even send him a formal complaint (by registered letter), and inform the trader or breeder in the same way. Do not plant these roses: place them in gauge until they look better or show signs of recovery. If this is not the case, ask your vendor he will tell you whether to return the seedlings or whether he agrees to replace them on parole.
Most large horticultural houses guarantee the recovery and make no difficulty to replace the plants.
In case of reception by large freezes, store your packages in cellar for a few days before opening them, in order to let the roses gradually unfreeze in complete safety.

Ground preparation

If a rose bush needs to be planted in a lawn, start by moving the lawn; then dig with a spade a hole about 40 cm.

If a rose bush needs to be planted in a lawn, start by moving the lawn; then dig with a spade a hole about 40 cm.

Like all shrubs, rose bushes should be planted in a well-prepared soil, that is, sufficiently loosened so that roots and rootlets grow easily as soon as they are planted. The soil must be dug to a depth of forty to fifty centimeters, at least three weeks before planting. If it is necessary to amend or bring fertilizer, it is better to do it even sooner. Eliminate all the weeds, which would necessarily affect the recovery of the plant, either by competing or suffocating.
If the soil is very heavy and it does not absorb water well, you probably need to drain it, at least where you plant the roses. Here it is necessary to resort to a deep trenching of about sixty centimeters (two spades of spade at least) and to establish at the bottom of the trench a true drain. In most cases, a simple bed of pebbles is enough. However, in very wet terrain, it may be necessary to have a pottery drain or a PVC tube pierced with multiple holes. A sand lightening of the filling soil accentuates the permeability.

Care before planting

To ensure the rapid recovery of the rose, it is necessary to dress the roots, that is to say, cut their ends with a pruner or a graft.

To ensure the rapid recovery of the rose, it is necessary to dress the roots, that is to say, cut their ends with a pruner or a graft.

Although protected by plastic bags, roses are almost always delivered bare roots. To ensure a rapid recovery of the plant, it is necessary to "dress" its roots, that is to say cut their ends a few centimeters, preferably with a pruner after having disinfected the blades with formalin, with ether or, more simply, with the flame of a lighter.

To praline the rose's roots, use transplant powder in sachets.

To praline the rose's roots, use transplant powder in sachets.

To help the rapid development of rootlets, soak the entire foot of a rosebush in a slurry to which you will have added recovery hormones powdered, sold by the seedlings. This operation, called pralinage, greatly promotes recovery after planting.

The praline rooting in a clay slurry promotes rooting and recovery.

The praline rooting in a clay slurry promotes rooting and recovery.

If the rods rosebush are somewhat dry at their ends, do not hesitate to cut pruner, cutting about five millimeters above one eye.

Grounding

By cutting slightly the end of the stems, you will limit evaporation after planting and thus promote growth.

By cutting slightly the end of the stems, you will limit evaporation after planting and thus promote growth.

The hole necessary for planting must, of course, be proportional to the importance of the rose's roots. In general, the spade iron is a good reference (thirty to forty centimeters).

Place the rose bush in the center of the hole, at the bottom of which you will have formed a small mound.

Place the rose bush in the center of the hole, at the bottom of which you will have formed a small mound.

Once the hole is dug, put a little mound earthen; it allows the roots to be properly seated by spreading them out. Re-fill the hole by gradually tamping the soil, so as to form a bowl intended to retain the water of irrigation. The bead corresponding to the graft must be barely covered.

Fill the hole with good soil (add a little soil if necessary), and tamp it by hand so as to form a small bowl.

Fill the hole with good soil (add a little soil if necessary), and tamp it by hand so as to form a small bowl.

If a fertilizer application has been necessary, it must be thoroughly mixed with the filling soil. Indeed, the roots of the rose must never be in direct contact with the fertilizer.

After planting

The bowl at the base of the rose bush helps retain the water after planting.

The bowl at the base of the rose bush helps retain the water after planting.

Water abundantly at the neck (a whole watering can, about ten liters per plant). Renew the operation as soon as the earth dries out, provided it does not freeze. If it is a question of replanting to replace old roses, do not forget that it is absolutely necessary to renew the earth, because the roots of the old rose bushes drew their food very deeply, which the young people can not do immediately. plants.

Before planting a rose bush, place a good stake, on the side of the prevailing wind.

Before planting a rose bush, place a good stake, on the side of the prevailing wind.

The planting of rosebushes requires the establishment of a guardian. Plant it in the hole before placing the plant, to avoid damaging the roots. The top of the guardian should be just below the graft. Place it preferably on the side of prevailing winds. Perform a flexible ligation (prefer the foam-coated links) at several points of the holder. Dressing and praline operations remain similar to those of bush roses.

Planting a rose bush: rose

After planting, the carpenter branches of a climbing rose must be hoisted without cutting them short like a bush rose.

Before setting up climbing roses

It is possible to make yourself a trellis using slats and a square template.

It is possible to make yourself a trellis using slats and a square template.

Trellising means must be available: trellis wooden, plastic, iron wire stretched, etc.

The limits are drawn in chalk. The assembly is done with small nails.

The limits are drawn in chalk. The assembly is done with small nails.

The hilling, always desirable, proves indispensable in the cold regions. It consists of covering the aerial part of the newly planted rose with soil after watering when the soil has completely absorbed the water. In very severe weather, mulching can complete ridging.

Once the trellising is done, it must be firmly fixed to the wall. If possible, place dowels after drilling and screw.

Once the trellising is done, it must be firmly fixed to the wall. If possible, place dowels after drilling and screw.

For a rose bush, it is impossible to butter beyond a few centimeters of stem. In exceptional cold, you can surround the trunk with old bags and cap the head.

The presentation in container

It allows a much later planting. It is important not to crumble the mound but, on the contrary, to preserve it as much as possible, without trying to dress or praline the roots. Do not try to recover the container. Make rather several cuts from top to bottom they allow to "unmold" the root ball, without shaking it. Dig a hole next to the container and carefully lay the root ball. Water copiously at close intervals.

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