The Content Of The Article:

Water supply in polyethylene circuit (plymouth)

In the drinking water distribution network for individual habitats, the supply line stops at the property line. This is where the meter, stop valve and purge valve are normally located. The meter reading can be done in any availability. However, the counter must not freeze because even if it does not belong to you (it is rented), you have the responsibility: isolate the look in which it is placed because if it freezes, you will need to have it replaced at your expense.

Necessary material

  • Shovel
  • Pick (or backhoe)
  • Wheelbarrow
  • Clamping keys
  • Mallet
  • burin
  • Half round file
  • Metal saw

1.

1.

For a complete water supply in rural areas, it is better to dig the trenches with a backhoe, either through a company (as here) or renting it (eg for a weekend). The time saved and the efforts avoided by manual digging will be without comparison with the amount spent. The minimum depth of the trench shall be 0.60 m and increased to 1 m under the possible rolling areas of vehicles.

2.

2.

2. Where possible, it is best to dig the main trench parallel to the house so that it can easily create bypasses for direct water arrivals to the various planned feed stations. Place a bed of sand at the bottom of the trench after removing the most prominent pebbles.

3.

3.

3. The adduction material of drinking water systems is polyethylene (black tube with blue mesh). It is a roll of black pipe on which fits a copper hardware fittings and fittings. It is thick, resistant, flexible, inexpensive and practically unalterable. Note that a minimum distance of 0.20 m must separate the hydraulic line from any electrical line.

4.

4.

4. We see the various connections and bypasses that allow to realize the supply circuit, not to mention the general purge valve, located closer to the meter.

5.

5.

5. If the copper elements can be in contact with the ground as shown in the picture, the presence of the purge valve, the meter and the stopcock obliges to surround them with a look of access and protection. As it is usually provided without bottom, it can be asked once the different connections made. To prevent it from freezing in winter, insulate it with glass wool or expanded polystyrene.

6.

6.

Then simply unroll the pipe to the bottom of the trench on the sand bed.

7.

7.

7. To make a connection, cut perfectly perpendicular to its axis with the end of the pipe in place. The hacksaw is the best tool, as long as the trimming is done with a half-round file. Then thread on this pipe, an external thread nut then a seal and a spacer afterwards. Finally, fit a flanged collar on the cut.

8.

8.

Fit the extension tube with the same parts and a screw-on sleeve to which you will tighten, using two wrenches, the threaded nut of the first pipe to seal the assembly.

9.

9.

The establishment of a bypass tee is performed in the same way, each of the three outputs of the tee receiving the threaded nuts of the three pipes thus connected.

10.

10.

Similarly, mount a shutoff valve at the end of the bypass line waiting for connection to the house's interior circuit.

11.

11.

The bypass line equipped with its stop valve, ends at the wall of the house. The internal recovery of the supply circuit will be done with other materials (PER, PVC-C or copper). Remember to take into account the thickness of the wall if your connection is inside (which limits the risks frost but is hardly decorative).

12.

12.

12. The shut-off valve of a diversion pipe, brought flush with an external wall, requires protection from a small access point which can easily be made around a formwork which can be seen here the dismantling. It should also be protected from frost.

13.

13.

13. Bypass fittings and taps, not equipped with valves, shall be buried without damage if they are made of copper. In addition, the regulatory depth of the trench normally prevents the pipes from being freeze-free.

14.

14.

14. Once the supply line has been completed, the trench will be capped. A layer of sand will first be thrown on the pipe. You will then run an oblong warning device blue (painted wire mesh, bomb or polypropylene tinted in the mass) to signal the pipeline. Complete the filling by the raised soil during excavation of the trench.
Warning: the color of the wire mesh can not be red because it is reserved for electrical conduits or yellow because it is reserved for gas pipes.

On the same topic

  • DIY tips
    • Bathroom: install a kit plumbing network
  • Questions answers
    • Can we put a self-piercing tap on a polyethylene pipe?
    • What diameter for a water supply pipe (Plymouth)?
  • products
    • DIPRA watering pump

This may interest you


Video Instruction: Dow Chemical Company | Wikipedia audio article