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Coat a brick wall

Solid bricks do not always deserve to be visible. Porous, they can also be easily moistened if they are very exposed to rain. It is therefore often preferable to cover them with a mortar facing mortar: smooth or embossed mortar, zip line.

Repair of joints between bricks

The prick hammer allows the joints to fall quickly.

Staking of the joints with the hammer

1. If the joints are wide enough: drop them by pricking them with a hammer or with a pricking hammer. Be careful not to damage the bricks by an unfortunate gesture (we quickly split them).

The chisel is a good tool for digging joints. If you have a large area to treat, take a chisel with a damper that reduces vibration and protects the hand at the same time.

Staking of the joints with the chisel

2. For more precise work, especially if the joints are thin enough, use a chisel and a mallet.

A wire brush cleans the joints of mortar debris. Pick them up immediately so as not to soil the soil.

Brushing the joints with the wire brush

3. Remove all debris and dust with a large quack or metal brush. Be sure to place a polyane sheet on the ground to facilitate collection.

Watering the bricks prevents them from behaving like a blotter by absorbing the mixing water from the mortar.

Watering bricks before plastering

4. Sprinkle the wall to saturate the porosity of the material, so that it does not absorb the mortar mixing water, which would weaken the mortar strength by reducing the setting capacity of the cement.

To avoid the phenomenon of facade spectra after coating, restore the joints and let dry several weeks.

Stuffing the joints with mortar

5. Stuff the defective mortar joints, then level all joints. After complete drying, brush the wall to remove non-adherent mortar burrs. The wall is ready to be coated.

Constitution of mortars

To make a coating on a small surface, use a ready-to-use product.

Mortar in small container

There are several qualities of mortar that can be used to coat a wall, each offering optimal properties for a given field of application.

  • For a small quantity (a plaster repair, for example), it is better to buy DIY ready-made mortar in small quantities (2 kg, for example).
  • For a bigger jobit exists in 35 kg bag.
  • For the coating of a facadeit is better to ruin the mortar by mixing cement and sand with a concrete mixer.

Masonry mortar
Gray cement mortar with normal setting, to be dosed at 450 kg of cement per cubic meter of dry sand with a particle size of 0.1 to 3.15 / 4 mm.
It can be used both to redo the joints of the wall, then for the gobetis, and even the plaster body.

Finishing mortar
Rich mortar, compatible with dyes, to be dosed at 600 kg of cement per cubic meter of dry sand with particle size 0.1 to 1.25 / 1.6 mm.
It is used for the plaster body and the finishing layer, but is also used for the laying of thick tiles, especially old tiles recovered, uneven thickness, as well as for making wide joints of a paving in opus incertum.

Bastard mortar
It is a mixture of DP white cement, aerated aerated lime for the building (CAEB) and fine sand of 0.1 to 1.25 mm granulometry, dosed with 2 volumes of cement for 1 volume of lime and 8 volumes of sand. It can be made bolder by adding 1 kg of CAEB lime to 5 kg of bastard mortar. More resistant to thermal shock and vibration than cement mortars, bastard mortar can be used for all layers of a wall coating, except on a damp wall.

(photos / visuals: © DIY-Prod, except special mention)

On the same topic

  • DIY tips
    • Smoothing a wall with a coating
    • Fast restoration of old masonry

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