When a tree is already naturally formed, it is possible to intervene on its frame by practicing an energetic size: pruning.
Always be cautious, because the cutting of a master branch can be very harmful to the harmony of an antler, and can even expose the tree to wind.
Pruning is generally done to restore a balance by removing some too vigorous branches or, on the contrary, to eliminate parts of the diseased or vegetative tree.
Pruning is done by sawing (by hand for small branches, by chainsaw for large ones), on a billhook or crescent.
In any case, the cut must be straightforward; the wood, and especially the bark, must never be broken. It must be done during the rest period of the vegetation. The application of a healing product which prevents the loss of sap and protects the wood from the infiltration of rainwater, is essential for a tree pruned by saw or chainsaw. Indeed the wood fiber is more or less destructured by the back and forth and vibrations.
For pruning done on the hoofon the contrary, the structure of the wood is reinforced since each given blow compresses the fiber of the wood and reinforces its structure. Moreover, if the work is done in the rules of the art, it is an extremely compact surface, smooth and convex which is offered to bad weather which thus have little catch.
Under the term pruning, we group together different operations
- beheading or topping consists in removing a part of the head of the tree when the arrow has been broken, when the tree tends to "spin" or to favor the development of low branches;
- reconciliation consists in simply shortening the branches in order to favor a shape;
- the refacing is to cut the branches almost flush with the trunk (size technique used in the city);
- pruning consists in limiting the shoots appearing in spring at the location of a size.
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