The perforator combines the principle of the jackhammer, and that of the percussion drill. It allows both the striking with specific tools type "chisel" (flat or tip) and drilling in hard surfaces (concrete, brick, etc.) with drill bits for masonry. Unlike a conventional drill, the drill does not have a jaw mandrel for clamping and locking cylindrical shanks, but a keyed chuck that can lock the chisels and specific bits with fluted shanks (SDS type). that snap into it in one click.
- SDS Plus Concrete Drill
- Peak chisel SDS Plus
- Flat chisel 20 mm
- Flat chisel 40 mm
1. The perforator, in its mode of operation "strikes", can project concrete or masonry pieces violently. Put on an integral protection mask.
2. The perforator, like any striking tool, is very noisy. Wear an earmuff.
Preparation of the perforator
1. The device shown here operates autonomously on battery power. Load it to the block and engage it on the machine.
2. The charge level can be controlled by pressing a test button. For extended continuous work, always provide two batteries that are constantly being recharged.
3. In "drilling" function, this drill has a reversing function. It can be used as a screwdriver for heavy duty screws. But this function is especially useful when a wick is blocked and must be brought out.
4. Test the trigger sensitivity of the machine (drive). The through button is used to adjust the direction of rotation.
5. This machine has a LED floodlight that illuminates the work area in a low light environment.
Using the perforator
1. To engage a drill bit or tool provided for a Drill (SDS), pull the chuck collar back. Engage the wick on the mandrel by retracting it. Test the freedom of movement from front to back of the drill.
2. Set the machine to percussion drilling by turning the selector knob to the corresponding pictogram. The perforator makes it easy to drill concrete.
3. For a striking function, engage the appropriate tool (here a chisel pick) on the chuck. Set the machine to perforation.
4. The peak chisel makes it easy to break down a mortar buildup.
5. The peak chisel also allows to dig the foot of a wall to restore.
6. Some jobs require the use of a flat chisel. Engage the flat chisel (here, 40 mm, called chisel "spade").
7. For some uses, it is useful to be able to adjust the angle of the flat chisel. Set the selector to "angle adjustment." Orient the chisel flat according to the job.
8. The chisel is ideal for taking off a firmly bonded floor (here on a regraying) or tiling. Set the machine to perforation and slide the tool under the liner by operating the machine.
9. The flat and narrow chisel (here 20 mm) is ideal for removing concrete growths: here a chipping of concrete agglomerated on a gutter.
(photos / visuals: © DIY Prod, except special mention)
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