- More than a garden shed
- Earthworks and slabs: important points
- 1 REALIZATION OF FOUNDATIONS
- 2 CASTING THE SLAB
- 3 GROUNDING AROUND THE SLAB
- 4 SETTING PREFABRICATED WALLS
- 5 SEALING THE ROOF AND DRESSING THE SHORES
- 6 INSTALLATION OF JOINERY
- 7 ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
Shelter cars, bicycles, furniture and garden tools... this is the concern of everyone whose basement is too small. Here is a realization with contemporary lines that offers a solution for storage and parking...
Cost: € 17,500 excluding installation (around € 26,000 including installation)
Time: about a month
Equipment: clamps, plumb line, straps, spirit level, chalk line, square, shovel, props, hammer, crowbar, 18 V screwdriver, drill and concrete drill Ø 10 mm, grinder, chainsaw, concrete mixer, vibrating plate, backhoe, blowtorch, scaffolding...
Garden shed, garage or carport: a multitude of prefabricated structures exist, but this creation is the work of an architect and several specialized companies. It forms a construction with geometric lines in the style of the house and, like it, entirely in wood.
More than a garden shed
Comfortable dimensions (6 x 3.5 m), this realization could also easily serve as a garage provided to provide a double door a little wider. But whatever its purpose, it remains subject to a declaration of work, or even a building permit.
Overflowing about 3 m on either side, the roof covers a parking space on each side of the shelter. Devoid of the usual consoles or side uprights, this is the most remarkable part of the whole.
Field integration is also important, as well as how to steer the slope of the roof, both to provide the least amount of power to the prevailing winds and to direct rainwater runoff downstream.
Earthworks and slabs: important points
In addition to the stacked wood principle, the wood construction uses post-beam and prefabricated panel structures. If such a work appears to be placed on the ground, it must be stable and level.
Hence earthworks (in the case of sloping terrain) and the rental of construction equipment. The goal is to create a solid and flat base for the reinforced concrete slab.
Made in a slight slope (in principle towards the entrance), at the rate of 2 cm per meter, the slab is separated into three distinct surfaces (parking, shelter, parking) by means of expansion joints.
1 REALIZATION OF FOUNDATIONS
Trace (aerosol can) the limits of the foundations according to the plan prepared. Fit a narrow bucket on the shovel and dig, trenching 40 x 30 cm trenches.
Arrange the reinforcements of the chaining on wedges (stones) to prevent them from resting at the bottom of the trenches. At the corners, ligature the frames together.
Lay the soles with a ruler. The surfaces being reduced, the operation is easy to execute, even without much experience in masonry.
After complete drying of the concrete, insert Ø 10 mm irons into holes drilled every 30 cm. Place your blocks (bancher blocks) on a bed of mortar 2 cm. Align them against a line.
The frame of the angles includes four irons Ø 10 mm. Insert the block and check its verticality.
To go with the wheelbarrow, have a solid board riding on one of the rows of blocks. Wet them without excess and fill them with concrete.
2 CASTING THE SLAB
Before pouring the slab, make a hedgehog on the whole surface: a bed of small hard rubble (or aggregates Ø 20- 40 mm) on a thickness of 20 cm (height of the blocks).
Use a vibrating plate to tamp the hedgehog. Then put the shuttering boards in support against the blocks and held by short props butted at the end.
Unroll a polyane sheet over the entire surface of the structure. Cover it with welded mesh panels that you ligate.
If you have help, plan two wheelbarrows to sink the concrete faster.
Spread it from the far corners of the shovel, then set it straight and smooth with a trowel.
For lack of vibrating rule, a vibrating needle makes it possible to raise the bubbles trapped in the thickness of the slab and to obtain a more solid concrete.
3 GROUNDING AROUND THE SLAB
The minipelle facilitates the earthwork, but this time on the edge of the slab: to level and compact the parking areas, as well as to align large stones at the ends (along the slope).
Cover the parking area with a geotextile marker, and backfill with soil recovered from the excavation.
Tamp, cover with small gravel, then tamp again.
4 SETTING PREFABRICATED WALLS
The watertight cut stapled under the panels goes back inside and coincides with an insulating tape stuck on the slab.
Align the next wall from the outside and screw it diagonally from the inside. Bring a powerful screwdriver and plan a screw (Torx) every 30 cm.
Place clamps in the center of the side walls and stretch a strap across. Check the perpendicularity of the walls by measuring the diagonals of the structure. Adjust if necessary.
The walls must be fixed in the slab by their sole using anchor bolts. Drill the corresponding holes directly through the soles with a Ø 10 mm concrete drill.
Maintained vertically by special props, the walls receive the first joist (grooves inwards).
Adjust its overhang then screw it through the top crossbar of the side and rear walls.
The glulam joists could be replaced by 75 x 225 or 250 mm planks at 40 cm spacing.
Fit the next joist and flange it with a ratchet clasp. Screw the screws at an angle every 30 cm, then the joists from below and from the inside.
Due to their weight, the joists can not be aligned perfectly. Their ends must therefore be ground together with the chainsaw (here a carpenter model).
5 SEALING THE ROOF AND DRESSING THE SHORES
Unroll the bitumen felt in the length of the beams with a minimum 5 cm overlap. Attach the strips with flat-headed tips.
Lift up the overlapping (not nailed) edges of the strips and heat the bitumen of the bottom edge with a torch to soften it.
In the corners, the covers are bent at 90° to at least 15 cm.
On the upper wing of the profile, locate a 90° notch at the square in the continuation of the future fold and cut it with the grinder.
Put a bead of putty under the ends of the covers. Screw them into the joists every 50 cm.
Peel the protective film and apply liquid bitumen on the upper wing of the profiles.
For a good watertightness on the banks, cut with the cutter strips of felt felt 10 cm wide. Stick them straddling the edge strips with the torch.
The final waterproofing is ensured by a second layer of asphalt felt (slate). Arrange the strips in the same direction as the previous ones but by shifting their junctions by about 10 cm.
6 INSTALLATION OF JOINERY
Present the frame of the double door in the front opening. Secure it with a screw every 30 cm.
In the center of the upper rail, dig the housing of the cremone with saw and chisel.
7 ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
Shorten the electrical sleeves (left on standby), avoiding nicking the inner wires.
The lighting is provided by a double fluorescent strip screwed to the center of the ceiling.
The lines serving the sockets and switches, from the table circulate mostly under IRL tubes.
Lined, some walls allow to embed sockets and switches, as well as the corresponding line sections. Their ICTL sleeves lead to the flush-mounting boxes of the switchgear.
Separated, the lighting circuits and outlets of the shelter are protected by separate division circuit breakers. They are mounted downstream of a 30 mA differential circuit breaker.
• Fluo bomb marking paint
• Reinforcement (running footing or foundation chaining)
• Concrete dosed at 350 kg / m3 (CPJ-CEM II cement, dry sand 0 to 4, aggregates from 5 to 30)
• Concrete iron Ø 10 mm, blocks of 20, polyane, welded mesh with mesh of 20 x 20 cm, galvanized iron wire (ligatures)
• Small hard rubble or aggregates Ø 20-40 mm (hedgehog)
• Geotextile felt and small gravel (parking areas)
• Douglas fir frame (bastaings 50 x 150 mm)
• 21 mm plywood cladding (CTB-X or CTB-X C4)
• Bituminous felt sealing strip
• M10 anchor bolts
• Prefabricated joists made of laminated fir (600 mm wide)
• Asphalt felt in rolls and liquid bitumen
• Galvanized flat head tips
• Folded aluminum sheet (covered)
• Polyurethane sealant
• Red TPC sleeve Ø 40 or 50 mm
• Rigid cables U 1000 R2V, FR-N 05 VV-U or R
• Rigid conductors H07 V-U or V-R
• Fluorescent strip, junction boxes, IRL-3321 tubes, elbows and clamps Ø 20 mm...
• IP55 switchgear (sockets and switches), sleeves ICTL-3321 Ø 20 or 25 mm