It is always useful to have a removable table, whether for the inside or outside of the house. The one we propose to manufacture, is wood. It consists of a round tray and two removable legs, assembled in a cross by simple interlocking. The junction of the tray to the base is provided by a set of pins forming pegs to be introduced into hollow cleats glued and screwed under the underside of the tray. Simply remove the trunnions to release the tray and store everything in a minimum of space, the two elements of the base dislocating without difficulty.
- Wood wicks of 5 and 10
- Stretch wick or 35 mm hole saw
- Hand saw or screed
- Pipe wrench
- Glue brush
- Dyeing brush
- Make a base element
- Make cleats
- Climb the feet
- Prepare the table top
- Finishing and mounting the table
Make a base element
1. "Clear" the elements of each foot. Work with planed planks 10 mm thick (faces of the legs) and 24 mm thick (intermediate planks) that you cut to the dimensions of the plan you have erected.
2. Drill 10 mm diameter holes 4 to 5 mm deep only, for the introduction of the false dowels, to hide the clamping bolts on both sides of the feet. Attention to the installation of the clamps, do not forget to insert wedges not to mark the wood of the faces.
3. Using the same holes, make a through hole with a 5 mm diameter drill bit, that of the connecting bolts that will hold the assembly of the foot elements.
4. In the upper outer corner of the top of the feet (long wedges), make a 35 mm diameter through hole. Use either an extensive special wick or a hole saw.
5. Dissect the long wedges, surface planks and cut the hollow angle into a regular square with a thickness of 24 mm.
6. The photo clearly shows the principle of connection between the cleats which will be fixed under the plane of the table and their position in line with the top of the legs.
7. The interlocking notches are cut with a jigsaw on the horizontal connecting boards of each base. They will have to measure 44 mm of width for 57 mm. height. Note that a notch will be made in the lower part of the two twin boards for a base and in the upper part of the same two twin boards on the other leg. The more the nesting of the base will be adjusted and the more stable the table will be.
8. Now proceed to the bolted-bolted assembly of the elements of each part of the base. Use a strong screwdriver and a pipe wrench. It may be helpful to wax the bolts for easier placement.
Climb the feet
9. The photo shows the positioning of the notches, directed downward for one element and upward for the other, in order to achieve a fitting fit as possible.
10. Plug the holes of the connecting bolts with the fake dowels. Spread out the glue ends before pushing them with the mallet (but carefully to avoid splitting the wood of the planks).
11. Allow the time required for the glue to dry considerably and then, with a fine hand saw or better, a saw, perform sawing of the protruding parts of the fake dowels.
12. Finish sanding all the sides of the legs to make them perfectly smooth. This precaution guarantees a more homogeneous and successful wood dyeing. The same type of base was made, under the same heading carpentry, in the second proposal of the sheet "Manufacture of a square stool".
13. Work on the wrong side of the panel to form the table top and draw the diagonals. Place the assembled but turned base on top and position it according to the layout.
14. Then proceed to the installation of the cleats at the four ends of the base (their place of origin) and trace the corresponding marks.
Prepare the table top
15. Remove the base and with a string attached to the center of the board (cross diagonals), draw a circle with the pencil attached, at the distance of the chosen radius (here 50 cm).
16. Cut with a jigsaw according to the pattern.
17. On the marks taken, the four cleats will be fixed by a screwing done from the top of the plate. The operation will be masked by the addition of false ankles as operated on the legs of the legs.
18. Once the masking operations of the fixings of the cleats (pegs set up and leveled), make a careful sanding of the whole surface of the plate.
Finishing and mounting the table
19. Trim four pins into a broom handle, then cut with abrasive, stop cutting to make it easier to maneuver.
20. Make the desired finish that can be stained-waxed if you do not plan outdoor use or stain (varnished or not) for outdoor use possible. Disassemble the elements to facilitate your work
21. The photo shows the positioning of the tray, ready to fit the cleats on the four legs of the base.
22. The installation of the trunnions locks the holding of the tray on the base. A trick not to lose them when the table is disassembled: connect them with a string either below the table or on the amount of the base.
On the same topic
- DIY videos
- How to make a wooden glass holder?
- DIY tips
- Make three nesting tables
- How to make an umbrella stand?
- Making a children's desk-library
- Make a work plan
- Realization of a fir cabinet
- DIY: build a wooden square stool
- How to make a wooden door for the cellar?
- How to make wooden shutters?
- Questions answers
- Manufacture of furniture for a bar
- Make a wooden gate
- Manufacture of a mezzanine
- WHAT TYPE OF WOOD TO USE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF AN ESTABLISHMENT?
This may interest you