- Practical advice
- Restoration of the plasterboard
- Cleaning and wood treatment
- The damage
- Clean and treat pieces of wood
- Peel off the old plaster
- Apply the plaster
- Check the condition of the lining
- Create a formwork
- Renovate the beams
- Protect and coat
Exposed to bad weather for years, the hood of this barbecue has gradually degraded. The coating was cracked, raised, letting through the water infiltration which finally took off the plaster and some bricks. It was time to intervene.
Prepare only the amount of plaster needed by your application as it is fast and irreversible. For starters, half a bag of plaster is enough. Otherwise, choose a delayed cast.
Before replanting the flue outlet, make sure the bricks around the hearth and the bottom of the hearth are in place. If not, you can reattach them with plaster or refractory cement.
Leaning against a wall of the house, this hood was made with solid bricks, covered with several passes of plaster plaster and decorative plaster protecting against bad weather.
● The drain is supported by Vaugirard brick bricks. On these two walls rest two small oak beams embedded in the wall and taking a third beam forming a lintel. It is on this wooden base that the hood was built.
Restoration of the plasterboard
The coating (plaster) is extremely deteriorated. It is drawn with the flat chisel of the mason and the hammer: remove all the loose plates and eliminate the dead plaster without necessarily going to the bricks. If possible, make sure to keep both edges as a guide when leveling the new fill.
● Even in an outdoor environment, plaster has a good performance provided it is well prepared. For this, mixing is done in a trough. The dosage is 14 to 18 liters of water for 25 kg of plaster. After putting the water in the tub, it is enough to sprinkle the surface plaster until saturation. After waiting for five minutes, the mixture is beaten with a trowel (stainless steel preferably). It then becomes usable for about twenty to thirty minutes.
● A brick at the flue outlet had come off. It is put back in place by buttering generously on its periphery. Delimited by two slats nailed at the edges, the front face of the drain is moistened, then filled with plaster in several passes. Prepared tight (not liquid), the mixture is transferred from the trowel to the surface to be filled. Excess plaster is then removed by shearing with a ruler resting on the guide slats. The equalization of the surface is done with a wide spatula. The front end, the slats are removed to repair the side faces.
Cleaning and wood treatment
The base of the drain is made with oak beams, which we know the very good behavior over time. Unfortunately, water infiltration at the base of the hood has created a zone of degradation that must be purged with an old wood chisel and a metal brush.
● The whole is then treated with a specific product ("Xylophene" type) in order to protect the wood durably. Then the beams are revived and all the old wood is removed in the plane. A deep slit on a small beam is covered with medium-bicolor two-component wood pulp. Finishes are made with a rasp and sandpaper.
● It is necessary to wait a minimum of two months for the plaster to be dry to heart. The finished exterior plaster is then troweled and bent, while maintaining a rustic appearance.
Before. Due to lack of maintenance, the barbecue hood was invaded by the Virginia creeper and was badly damaged. Peeled off its support, the plaster no longer provides protection.
Clean and treat pieces of wood
The pieces of wood were deteriorated by rainwater. After having thoroughly cleaned them, treat them against insects, fungi and rots.
Peel off the old plaster
Test the solidity of the whole and take off with a flat chisel layers of old plaster little adherent. If possible, keep the two edges that can be used later (photo 5).
Apply the plaster
Seal some bricks around the smoke outlet and apply the plaster. On each edge of the hood, nail a paneling board to define the fill.
Check the condition of the lining
To check the condition of the packing, apply a rule on the side guides. Apply extra thickness and remove excess plaster by making the ruler move back and forth.
Create a formwork
Finish the hood outlet by creating a small formwork that will be filled with plaster. Remove the guide slats. These are the edges that will serve as a reference for plastering the side faces of the hood.
Renovate the beams
With a scraper or planer, renovate the beams by eliminating dead wood on the surface. Repair large cracks in the woodpulp, then impregnate with a mixture of linseed oil and turpentine.
Protect and coat
Protect the beams by covering them with a stapled polyane. Apply the plaster on the perfectly dry plaster. After troweling, the coating is flattened and smoothed with a sponge.