- Necessary material
- Semi-portable partition or not?
- Check also the floor
- A metal gantry in load recovery
- 1. Demolition of the partition
- 2.Positioning the lintel
- 3. Dressing up the IPN
- 4. Fixing the amounts
- Info brico
The old houses were often very compartmentalised and lacked clarity. To overcome these constraints, to give an impression of space and allow the light to penetrate widely, it is sometimes possible to remove a part of partition and thus widen the passage.
- Spirit level
- Paint tray
- Saber saw or handsaw
- Chain saw
- Welding machine
- Bell saw
Cost: about 250 €
Time: 2 to 3 days depending on the drying
Before cutting down all or part of a partition, it is imperative to check that it has no structural role or to take account of it in order to postpone the charges it takes up. Modifying a load-bearing wall can indeed destabilize the structure and have disastrous consequences.
Semi-portable partition or not?
The thickness of a non-bearing partition is generally less than 10 cm. Beyond that, we must be wary. The load-bearing walls are most often superimposed from the cellar to the attic. It is therefore simpler toidentify the building structure starting from the cellar or basement if they are accessible. A floor partition just above the one you want to remove, for example, can also be a problem.
Check also the floor
Indeed, many old floors sag over time and end up loading walls that were not originally load-bearing. Once the inspection is done, it is important to look for the joists of the floor above the partition to be removed and check that they do not fit perpendicularly into the wall. In our case, some slats of the floor were removed to control this point. Sometimes when the joist is parallel to the partition, the partition takes place occasionally joist. In this case, it is necessary to plan to put in place a piece of wood in substitution.
A metal gantry in load recovery
Here, the partition of the ground floor is located exactly under that of the first floor which plays the role of bracing. In order not to disturb the structural device, a metal gantry takes up the loads of the fallout wall and stiffens the opening. It consists of an IPN and two tubes forming the amounts.
1. Demolition of the partition
- Draw on both sides of the partition to remove the footprint of the future opening.
- The layout here includes the door frame.
- Check his plumb.
- Drill at the top corner of the path with a hole saw.
- The hole made in the partition makes it possible to insert an electric saber saw equipped with a blade with wide teeth.
- Insert the blade of the saw and go down to half height.
- Then make the horizontal saw line starting from the corner.
- Hit the hammer and break from this angle.
- Continue cutting with a saber saw following the path to the ground.
- If necessary, press the body of the machine.
- Change the blade as soon as it is blunted.
- The demolition continues to the hammer.
- The amount of the door is kept temporarily.
- To clear the electricity networks present here, electricity is cut off.
- The lower part of the old door amount is deleted.
- Make sure to make the cut perpendicularly, the upper part left in place will be used for the setting of the IPN.
2.Positioning the lintel
- The lintel is an IPN of section 100 x 100 x 10 mm. Cut it with a circular saw.
- Its length corresponds to the width of the opening (190 cm) increased by 20 cm on each side.
- Practice with electric saber saw a reservation of 10 cm high on each side of the opening in the partition.
- Rectify the flat chisel so that the rail fits easily.
- Although the partition is not a load-bearing wall, it is best to support.
- In the upper part a bastaing of about 2 meters is interposed between the ceiling and the forestay, and the foot rests against a fall of 50 cm.
- The wedges may be for example plastic wedges used for mounting the floors. They have retaining streaks and can be superimposed.
- Hammer them down. They will then be embedded in the seal.
- Preferably two people, place the metal profile in its housing.
- If it is necessary to force a little, push the profile with a mass.
- Put a level in the throat of the IPN.
- Compensate the false level by playing with wedges.
3. Dressing up the IPN
- Fill the IPN and seal it with plaster or drywall mortar.
- Fill both sides of the IPN completely by stuffing it with a wide spatula.
- If necessary, take advantage of the available space between the wings to drown electric ducts.
- Gradually pass from the plaster of plaster to coatings, coarse and fine, until the uniformity between the fallout of partition and the lintel is perfect.
4. Fixing the amounts
- Measure the distance between the lintel and the floor, cut the 80 x 40 x 3 mm iron tubes to create the gantry jambs.
- Place a stud and point to the arc welding.
- The welding generates deformations, so do not solder at once lintel and amount.
- After pointing, check the squareness with a large Mason square.
- Apply a special iron primer on the elements (IPN and uprights).
- This primer stops rust and provides grip if you want to apply a finishing paint.
- Drill Ø 6 mm both sides of each upright at 10 cm from the floor and every 30 cm.
- Reperce Ø 8 mm the first wall to let the flanges of the ankles to hit.
- Present the ankle to strike in front of the hole and, with the help of the screw, guide the ankle in the boring of the partition.
- Place the impression of a screwdriver at the head of the screw and push the dowel into its housing.
- Continue to hit the screw.
- By sinking into his ankle, it hangs by expansion.
The extension of the passage was made from metal elements. It is also possible to implement such a wooden gantry, but you should know that this material "work" and that cracks often appear at the junction between wood and plaster.
- Cover IPN and studs with plasterboard strips glued to the adhesive mortar to the rest of the partition.
- Coat the corners with tape.
- IPN truss section 100 x 100 x 10 mm
- Metal tube 80 x 40 x 3 mm
- Filling plaster or thin-set mortar for drywall
- 25 kg bag of coatings
- Bag 25 kg of fine coating
- Hinge pins Ø 6 x 50 mm • Abrasive 80 and 120
- Antirust white paint
- Acrylic satin paint