- Necessary material
- A soil too degraded
- Resumption of the supporting structure
- Floor removal and support consolidation
- Laying of the floor
- Laying of the coating and finishes
The installation of a PVC cladding floor covering is a practical and simple solution to implement. Once the surface is prepared, it can quickly replace an old floor, which it will perfectly imitate the appearance.
- Lambourdes (24 x 70 mm)
- Metal clogs
- Resilient tape
- Waterproof chipboards (22 mm thick)
- PVC boards imitation parquet and skirting coordinates
- Wood fasteners
Laying a floor covering requires a flat support, clean and healthy. The choice must take into account the room in which it is installed. For example, it is important that the coating is wear-resistant and easy to maintain if it is placed in a damp room or facing the outside...
A soil too degraded
The owners of the house wanted to keep the old solid parquet. But wear and a recent water damage had seriously degraded, and its renovation would have required tedious times (replacement of several blades, filling many holes in the wood pulp, sanding and vitrification), without any guarantee of an aesthetic result... So they decided to drop it. In order to minimize costs and keep the same thickness, their choice fell on a flexible PVC floor composed of clip-on blades offering a wide choice of colors and designs. The floating pose on a thin undercoat completed with coordinated skirting was imposed for its simplicity of implementation.
Resumption of the supporting structure
When removing the first blades of the existing floor, the owners discovered a lambourdage with an irregular spacing in a few places. It was therefore necessary to carry out a additional lightning before asking decking to serve as a support for PVC blades. It has been made from chipboard (water-repellent OSB slabs may also be suitable). They fit together easily thanks to their tongue and groove profiles and cut with the saw generating few splinters. Localized addition of some shims also allowed to find a floor perfectly level. A coating recovery the bottom of the damaged walls during the removal of the parquet has finally made possible the installation of skirting boards.
Floor removal and support consolidation
- Using a crowbar or a pliers, remove the first blades nailed to the joists.
- Start by avoiding damaging the partitions.
- Continue the blade removal.
- Some are difficult to remove and some mounting nails remain in the joists.
- Tear off mount nailse as and when.
- To consolidate the existing lattice networkcut out and pre-pierce every 30 cm of the additional joist sections to be screwed onto those already in place.
- Add more sections of joists.
- Assemble them perpendicular to the previous ones every 60 cm, using metal shoes.
- With a flat wood bit (Ø 20 or 25 mm), drill the joists to route the ducts of the future electrical outlets.
- Staple a resilient tape on all joists to reduce impact noise. Here, strips cut into a laminate underlayment drop.
Against joists supporting added masonry, screw a complementary section of wood to support chipboard.
Level it with the help of a fall.
Laying of the floor
- Ask them chipboard by fitting the tongue into the groove.
- Cross the joints one rank out of two to make a stable and solid junction.
- Place a drop of agglo against the panel.
- Hit the hammer to insert the tongue into the groove of the previous row.
- Mark the axes of the joists in pencil.
- Realize the contour cuts using a jigsaw following the marks previously drawn.
- Insert the panels as before. The junction between two panels must be at mid-joists.
- If there is a difference in level, add wooden wedges to perfectly level chipboard panels.
- As you advance, screw the panels onto the joists, making sure that the screw heads do not protrude from the surface.
Laying of the coating and finishes
- Store the coating in the room 24 hours before installation for at ambient temperature and hygrometry.
- Vacuum the floor for a long time, checking that no screws protrude.
- Unroll a first lé de isophonic underlayment On the ground.
- Carefully cut the excess at the opposite end with the cutter.
- Start laying at a corner of the room. The blades fit together easily thanks to their tongue and groove profiles.
- Cut the last to the cutter.
- Start on the 2nde rank with the fall.
- At the opposite end, slide the cutout into the blade before inserting its tongue in the groove of the previous row so as to cross the joints.
The floor tends to creak after a few years. To limit this problem, sprinkle talc in the groove of chipboard before fitting them.
- Use a jigsaw to make the specific cuts after carefully measuring and tracing the marks.
- At the end of the installation, on the wall side, cut the blade with the cutter in the length.
- Insert the tongue into the groove of the penultimate row using a blade-puller to snap it into place.
- Take meticulous measures.
- Cut the plinths (here using a radial miter saw to bevel angles and get a nice junction).
- the extruder gun equipped with a glue cartridge, glue the back of skirting boards.
- Place them against the wall by pressing their full length.