- Renovation of a window
- A simple pose
- Successfully taking measurements to change your windows
- Tax Credit: Requirements
- Removing the frame
- Fixing the new frame
- Installation of the opening
An old window whose insulation is defective does not deserve to be preserved. It remains to choose a renovation model or, as here, a carpentry to implement after total removal.
Cost: 220 € (PVC window 72 mm, width 57 x 64 cm, glazing 4/16/4 argon)
Time: 2 to 3 hours (excluding masonry work)
Equipment: spirit level, screw clamp, brick chisel (flat chisel), screwdriver, hammer, screwdriver, bit holders and screwdriver bits, hammer chisel-hammer, saber saw and metal blade or grinder Ø 125 mm, cutting disc metals
Outdoor carpentry must meet today's expectations for comfort and performance.
If this is not the case, its replacement is required. Especially if the window has no charm or special interest. Several materials and options are possible, including renovation or total removal of the old frame.
In both cases, the new joinery will certainly be more airtight and more insulating to cold than the old one. It can also be more resistant to burglary, offer a more advanced opening mode (tilt and turn), or even be provided with a shutter.
Renovation of a window
The renovation consists in depositing only the opening (single or double).
The original frame, it remains in place and serves as a support for the new element, designed to cover the old. In doing so, even in extra-thin version, it slightly reduces the size of the opening. In return, this type of carpentry arises very quickly: an hour may be enough. And it has no impact on the interior decoration.
Why then opt for a conventional carpentry?
When the original frame is in poor condition and can not receive a carpentry renovation, this is the only solution. But by the way, it offers many benefits. It may be available immediately (in supermarkets, shops and specialized sales outlets) in standard dimensions (example: 1. 100 x 120 cm in table).
And if the original dimensions are slightly different from the standard offer, it is possible to choose a carpentry (wood or PVC) of similar dimensions. The offset is then offset laterally by mattresses and, at the top, by a transom. To fill the space between carpentry and masonry, put a bead of caulk on the outer periphery of the frame and expansive foam inside, because the plaster will not support the work of wood over time.
A simple pose
To remove the old frame, simply locate the position of the sealing tabs and cut them flush (using a grinder or saber saw). Some people prefer to cut the frame (with saber saw) in sections of 30 to 50 cm. The first falls removed, it is easier to spot the legs, solidarity with the remaining falls. Resume where it requires, the masonry of the table is ready to receive the new frame. It is designed to be screwed in a conventional way (with dowels) or directly into solid masonry, using concrete screws.
Successfully taking measurements to change your windows
Above all, the table ratings are necessary. That is to say the height and width of the bay where the joinery takes place.
The height is raised from the bay support to the lintel. While the width is measured from one side to the other of the table.
The table dimensions are always lower than the overall dimensions of the joinery (example: 100 cm in table for a carpentry of 117.2 cm). A fortiori when the carpentry is posed rebated (as is the case in many old houses).
It is then advisable to also raise the overall dimensions of the frame: from the inside, after removal of the flats (which cover its junction with the masonry).
Tax Credit: Requirements
Warning: this information evolves over time, check their accuracy at the time of reading:
To benefit from the sustainable development tax credit (CIDD), a carpentry must be set up by a professional and offer a global heat loss coefficient (Uw) limited to: 1.4 W / m².K for PVC, 1, 6 W / m².K for wood and 1.8 W / m².K for steel and aluminum.
The CIDD rate currently reaches 13% of the invoice amount (excluding VAT), with the usual ceilings of € 8,000 (single) or € 16,000 (married or PACS couple), plus € 400 per dependent.
Removing the frame
Before removing the original joinery, measure its height and width.
Postpone them on a diagram with precision for a custom manufacturing.
The opening deposited, blow up the plaster surrounding the frame here to identify faster its sealing tabs.
Use a screwdriver and a mallet or attack the chisel.
If a sealing tab is nailed to the frame, do not hesitate to leverage under the tab with a nail puller.
There are three sealing tabs here: cut them flush with the frame with the "one-handed" grinder.
When using a grinder, keep sparks away from flammable materials (rags, newspapers, etc.).
Once released from its anchors, remove the frame.
If he is tall, get help.
Fixing the new frame
Inspect the condition of the masonry and remedy any disturbances.
Eliminate any relief that may hinder the installation of the new frame.
Badly laid originally, the bricks supporting the carpentry did not offer a fairly regular surface.
They are replaced by two rows of terracotta tiles sealed on edge, while the tablet below is mortared.
Present the new frame to verify that it fits properly to the bay: it must neither force nor have too much play (15 or 20 mm maximum).
Installed in rabbet, the frame can be easily maintained by its high cross by means of a clamp.
Then check the level with the spirit level in both axes: left-right and front-back.
To correct the plumb, use special shims that are removed after the frame is fixed.
In a sufficiently solid masonry, no need to peg: use concrete screws. Screw through the frame.
Repeat drilling at the top of the upright.
Do the same for the high cross and the other amount.
Installation of the opening
Engage the opening on the hinges of the frame.
Check the operation of the two opening modes: swinging and swinging. If necessary, adjust the hinges. No hard point should persist.
Outside, place a bead of silicone sealant around the frame, flush with the masonry.
Smooth the finger dipped in soapy water.
Airtightness is also important. Before covering the board (interior side), fill the gaps between joinery and masonry with expansive foam.
• PVC joinery (here Finstral)
• Beveled wedges
• Concrete screw Ø 7,5 x 120 or 150 mm, or long dowels Ø 10 x 140 mm or universal dowels Ø 8 x 50 mm and screws TF agglo Ø 6 x 140 mm
• Expansive foam
• Silicone sealant (for outdoor use)