- Practical advice
- A meticulous disassembly
- Recovered coins
- Protect before painting
- Remove the screws
- Sawing, planing and chamfering parquet slats
- Drill the new cross
- Position and fix the crossbar
- Round the ends of the slats
- Replace vertical slats
- Put a sealant joint
- Refit and fix the fittings
Outside, wooden structures can deteriorate very quickly if they are not treated at heart. And as soon as the decay is established, it is often necessary to change the defective elements.
• Take advantage of the fact that the barrier is laid to paint the underside of the vertical slats. Rubbing in the grass, they are an ideal entry point for water that then causes wood rot.
• To protect assemblies from water ingress, use an acrylic sealant (avoid silicone that can not be painted) to make a joint (on top and on the sides) at each upright / transom connection.
• Such repairs can be avoided if you regularly maintain the barrier by sanding and repainting every two years.
Closing the entrance to the garden, the fence is entirely of wood. It consists of two leaves fixed on poles and, on both sides, two bays resumed at the ends on poles. The set is built on the same principle, namely vertical slats evenly spaced and joined by two horizontal crosspieces.
A meticulous disassembly
Without treatment against bad weather, this fence has deteriorated significantly. Damaged parts must be restored or changed and the assembly repainted.
The first step is to remove the two fixed bays and the leaves. These include hinges and a door latch, disassembled to check their operation, clean them, possibly change them, and paint them.
Then the peeling paint areas are scraped off and the damaged battens and battens replaced.
Wood rot is located mainly at the junction between slats and sleepers. Which leads to replace all or part of these elements. Initially, the barrier was made from fir with a section of 80 x 25 mm.
In order to reinforce the durability, the replacement elements are made with the oak blades of an old parquet 90 mm wide. Simply remove the groove and rabbet, then to plan two chamfers on the edges of the front panel (as on the original parts). With these blades machined in advance, it is possible to cut on request sleepers and slats.
The new pieces of wood settle on the site of the old pieces. Maintained by clamps, they are fixed with screws Ø 4 x 45 mm.
Protect before painting
The wicket and two fixed spans are abundantly fed with a mixture of equal parts linseed oil and turpentine. This application is compatible with both layers of glycerophthalic paint finish.
A ready-to-use treatment for wood would have just as agreed (Durieux, Dyrup, Sikkens, V33, etc.). They act against rot, blue stain, fungi, termites and xylophagous insects depending on the product selected. Same thing with stains that have the added benefit of avoiding painting (but requires a total stripping and perfect!).
The hardware, hinges and latch already disassembled are painted black ironwork. All that remains is to repaint the leaves and the spans before going back to the hardware store.
Remove the screws
Very damaged, the bottom rail of the bay and several slats it supports are to change. Unlock (if necessary by heating) and remove all screws that are often rusty.
Sawing, planing and chamfering parquet slats
Crossbars and slats are drawn from blades of an old oak floor brought back to 80 mm wide by sawing and planing. Chamfer the two edges on the front face.
Drill the new cross
Overlay the old transom and the new one. Keep them tight and drill all the holes (at the same diameter) using those of the old crossbar as a guide.
Position and fix the crossbar
Position the oak crossbar instead of the old one. Make sure that the vertical slats are evenly spaced, then secure the assembly with screws (Ø 4 x 45 mm).
Round the ends of the slats
The end of the vertical slats is rounded. Draw the semicircle with a dry-point compass and cut with a jigsaw. Finish with a rasp and abrasive.
Replace vertical slats
Arrange the vertical battens at the location of the old ones. The new slats can come into abutment on a batten momentarily nailed to the bottom of the others. Screw.
Put a sealant joint
Very important ! At each intersection, remove an acrylic sealant seal that prevents water infiltration. This putty can be painted.
Refit and fix the fittings
Carry out the door fittings (latch, hinges). They are fixed with short screws (Ø 6 mm) and pilot holes. Restore the hardware to paint them.