- Practical advice
- A consequent choice
- A great classic...
- Nature of the soil: precautions
- Adapt to each place
- Adapt to the place
- A good identification of the brackets
- A slanted pan to reach the wall
- Just right
- An improvised gate
The neighbors opposite are not so far and you would like to escape the prying eyes? Several solutions are available to you, such as this screen barrier, easy to install, and a reasonable budget.
Production: 1 day
Cost: from 10 to 75 € the panel 180 x 180 cm. From 10 to 30 € the post 9 x 9 x 210 cm. 38 € about the linear meter, "Sevilla", Forest Style.
Supplies: 180 x 180 and 90 x 180 cm screening boards, 9 x 9 cm (or 7 x 7 cm) posts, 210 cm long minimum. Soles of poles. Bichromate squares (4 per panel). VBA screws, dowels, 3 small hinges, 1 hook.
tooling: drill-driver, grinder, jigsaw.
The particularity of this project lies in its location, right in the city center. Moreover, it is enough to walk nose in the air in a district of residential buildings to note that the chosen solution (trellis "Sevilla", Forest Style) is of common use on the terraces as on the balconies. Because a screen-breaker makes many services. The first of these is to partially preserve the terrace or balcony from the view of the neighborhood. Incidentally, the screen can be used to hide a drying rack, to support climbing plants, to raise the railing if you have children a little restless...
This list of uses is not exhaustive. Think of the many possibilities offered to divide the space and create real "rooms" in the open, to have lunch, to read or simply to let time slip while listening to the murmur of the city at your feet.
But before that, take the trouble to submit your project to the trustee of your condo. His opinion is often necessary. Sometimes you have to wait for the general meeting of co-owners. This will leave you plenty of time to prepare your job well.
A consequent choice
Aspects, shapes and sizes combine to offer you an extensive collection of screening panels. The standard size is around 1.80 m, both in height and width. Framed with two posts of 9 x 9 cm section, this makes a screen about 2 m long. But this is only indicative data. You will find at your dealer (gardening, large DIY area...) half-panels and other proposals for height.
Note that to enhance your screen, it is always possible to use higher posts and leave a free space between the floor and the base of the panels. This device allows to adjust the height on an additional 30 cm. But only if the screening screen does not act as a fence.
In general, the proposed forms are rectangular or curved at the top. They are associated with different fillings, based on square meshes as here, rhombuses or plessis (similar to a braiding) that let more or less pass the glance. Some are totally opaque while others mark a symbolic border. Choose the screen pattern according to the degree of privacy you are looking for.
Protection issue, an industrial treatment class III, CCA type or CCB by sprinkling (chromium, copper, arsenic or bromine), is sufficient since your screen screen is not in contact with the ground. The application of a finish is however necessary to avoid the rapid washing of this protection under the action of the rain.
A great classic...
The proposed trellis is guaranteed 10 years. The wood is autoclaved: a process allowing deep impregnation. The implementation is quite simple: a post, a panel, a post, a panel... This is also the recommended method if you start this type of work. It avoids the risk of measurement error: the marking of the position of the columns is carried out at the progress. For those who are already used to building sites, it is faster to put all the poles first, then to mount the panels in a second time. But that requires a rigorous tracking.
In all cases, the condition of success is to make a plan sufficiently precise beforehand. Some panels are indeed difficult to cut. It is often best to use whole elements. The plan allows for as many tests as necessary before finding the best distribution of poles according to the layout of the premises.
The panels are fixed by means of stainless brackets. The posts are fixed to the ground thanks to metal hooves. Additional security is provided by attaching the posts to the guardrail. If yours is a metal railing, use wire or plastic ties. In this project, we added three hinges and a hook to make a gate.
Nature of the soil: precautions
The installation of a screen on a balcony or terrace is the same as in a garden, with one exception: it is necessary to preserve the watertightness! Otherwise the neighbor from below may find the layout a little too wet! Here, the length of the screws and anchor pins of the shoes was chosen according to the thickness of the slabs, without reaching the underlying sealing layer. If, in your case, it is totally impossible to drill the flooring, add a floor on joists and fix your poles on it. Solidity is equally guaranteed.
Adapt to each place
In addition to its role of screening, this screen has the function of delimiting an "outdoor stay" on the terrace. Indeed, the space that borders this apartment consists of a surface of 7 x 8 m (in front of the living room) and a "corridor" wide of 1.30 m (in front of the rooms). The idea was to close the view towards this long corridor (16 m) to make each part more intimate.
Playing on the dimensions of the panels, the owner chose to draw a diagonal between the wall and the angle of the apartment: the fence of the terrace is thus more harmonious. And to leave access to the rooms, the last panel (cut) was transformed into a gate. One example among others of how to turn a constraint into an asset: with a little imagination, standard panels fit everywhere.
Adapt to the place
The placement of the footings of the columns is accurately measured within an interval of 180 cm. You can also use a rod of the same length (a cleat for example).
The plate of the soles is too wide. It stops against the shutoff profile of the waterproofing of the terrace. It is thus cut close to the hoof with a grinder equipped with a disc to cut the metals.
To house the anchors, only the slab is pierced, without touching the seal. The soleplate is then secured with 30 mm screws in the two remaining holes (fitted with nylon pegs).
A good identification of the brackets
The panels are attached to the posts with four brackets. Note the location of these brackets: in line with a horizontal batten and 30 cm from the ends of the posts.
The pole is mounted and pierced with a hole at 50 cm height: it is used to identify its vis-à-vis in the railing. Remove the post to drill and peg the hole. Then the post is put back in place and screwed.
The brackets are oriented inward, it is necessary to engage the panel from the back so that it is aligned on the inner face of the posts (the handling is easy). The panel is then placed on wedges and then screwed on the brackets. Choose screws that do not go through the wood, for example 30 mm long.
A slanted pan to reach the wall
The last pan connects the screen to the corner of the building with a diagonal line. The first panel of this bias is 90 cm wide. The location of the intermediate post is located on the route.
The four holes for the sole are drilled in the slabs and then pegged. The sole is screwed. Then the post, equipped with its brackets, is put in place, wedged vertically and screwed.
The brackets of the last post are open to the clamp to follow the diagonal of the cutaway. Perfectionists help themselves to a false square, the others make it to the eye.
The intermediate panel is screwed onto the brackets. The large hold placed on the ground that can support it at the right height, the time to adjust the level and fix it.
The space between the last post and the corner of the building is narrower than an entire panel. The measurement is taken (minus one centimeter of margin) then reported on the panel to be cut.
The path is marked with a chalk line or with a large metal ruler. A jigsaw equipped with a blade with strong teeth ensures a fast cut. Eliminate any splinters with abrasive paper.
A vertical slat is recovered on the previous fall. Removed from its original fixing points, it consolidates the last amount of the cut. It is fixed by a close series of screws.
The last panel serves as a gate. raised to the false-square, the angle formed by the trellis and the wall of facade is cut with the planer. It could also have been cut by adjusting the inclination of the jigsaw.
An improvised gate
Hinges used are classic models to screw. There are three: upstairs, downstairs and in the middle. The previous panel allows you to adjust their position according to the horizontal slats.
The gate panel is screwed onto the hinges. As these are arranged at the rear of the panels to respect the alignment, it is necessary to add small intermediate wedges.
On the side of the building wall, the gate is simply held by a hook. A more sophisticated locking system, such as a bolt or lock, is more difficult to put in place and is not necessary here.
A small metal hood, placed at the head of the poles, provides effective protection against rain. Moreover, it brings a touch of refinement to the realization. Nail or screw simply.