Hardness of the wood, dirt and sand on the bark blunt the gouges - or teeth - of the chain of a chainsaw, which ends up not to cut any more. Sharpening them guarantees safety and efficiency.
Sharpening consists of reshaping the gouges, either with a small grinding wheel driven by an electric motor, or manually with a round file mounted on a device where the settings take into account some grinding parameters provided by chainsaw chain manufacturers.
If we observe a stretch of chain, we count, in order: a left gouge, a coach link, a link, a new coach link, a straight gouge, and so on throughout the closed chain assembled by rivets.
Mount the horse grinder on the guide, center and screw the two jaws of the chain clamp over the rivets.
Adjust the bevel stop screw on the file holder guide and wedge the file axis to the center mark (red).
Adjust the grinding angle of the upper plate by adjusting the horizontal sector to 30° with the knurled screw.
For square gouges, unscrew the throttle from the vertical sector, lower the file handle to -10° and lock.
Using the knurled knob, adjust the height of the file, which must exceed 1 / 10th of its Ø the upper part of the gouge.
Block the stop behind a gouge. Sharpen one side.
Then, sector on 30°, pass the file on the opposite gouges.
One sharpening out of three, file the depth limiters: place the gauge on a gouge and round the front beak.
To sharpen easily
When the chainsaw chain dies in full action, sharpen it. If you do not have the right equipment, the only way is to take the unit to a dealer. While to avoid this, it would be enough to own a sharpening kit...