- Practical advice
- The backsplash
- The cuvelle
- Limestone blocks
- Cut the stone
- Draw circles and dig your throat
- Go down to the gradin
- To equalize the streaks
- Prepare the cheeks of the bowl
- Make a notch
- Realize the frontal stone
- Fix backsplash, cheeks and frontal stone
- Screw the tap
- Lay the welded grid
Decorative and functional, this small stone fountain fits into the decor, where there was only a tap. An interesting introduction to the work of stone.
Cost: about 60 €
Time: 1 weekend
Equipment: jigsaw and handsaw with big teeth, drill, step, chisel flat, gouge, railroad...
Fountains made of reconstituted stone are relatively expensive for imitation, which is often lacking in naturalness. So why not make it yourself in stone, a material that is finally quite easy to work with. In the eyes of purists, the methods used here will seem unorthodox, even frankly iconoclastic. But it's the result that counts!
Very simple design, our fountain consists of a backrest in one piece and a bowl in three parts assembled in "U". Coming to conceal an existing look of ground, it does not have bottom.
On the other hand, a grid "house" covers it. It allows to put watering cans and buckets and facilitates the filling.
Fixed on the wall of the house, it is crossed by the water pipe ended by a tap. The existing exit is 55 cm above the ground. Its position determines the dimensions of the stone, here 74 x 38 x 8 cm. The back splash is cut from a recovery block using a saw with a big toothed saw. After tracing with a dry-point compass (radius of 19 cm) the cut of the rounding is done with the jigsaw taking precautions. The finish is done with an old rasp.
Several areas are delimited to be carved and give relief to the stone. From the center of the round, two concentric circles (4 and 6 cm radii) are drawn and form a rosette. On the inside of the stone's handlebar, a 4.5 cm-long band (14.5 cm radius) extends along the sides and stops on a line 25 cm from the base.
The rosette has a throat carved with gouge around the small circle of Ø 8 cm. The entire area between the large circle and the outer path is dug 5 mm at the step and refined with flat chisel. Finally, a hole 25 mm in diameter is drilled in the center of the rosette to allow the passage of the water supply.
It has two lateral cheeks closed by a frontal stone to delimit inside a space of 30 x 24 cm.
Both cheeks are drawn from stones with two asymmetrical cut sides. reduced to a height of 20 cm, each is cut 45 x 45 mm at each end to fit with the other parts. They are joined at the front by the frontal stone of 38 x 20 x 9 cm.
The original valve is disassembled and replaced with a 15 x 21 mm threaded brass pipe section. The seal is made to the dough and the tow. The tube passes into the hole of the backrest itself fixed to the wall by two fasteners, consisting of modified shutter stops.
On the threaded end of the pipe a brass hubcap, a flat nut and a female-female connector 15 x 21 mm are located to receive the tap. The assembly of the cuvelle on the ground could be made with white mortar. But this system would bind in a definitive way the stones of the whole.
The fountain must remain removable to access the plumbing concealed behind the backsplash. The connections are provided by long screws of 120 mm. They fix the cheeks by means of 8 mm dowels inserted into the dorsal and frontal stones.
In 15 x 15 mm angles welded to the arc, the grid consists of two longitudinal bars joined by two ties welded flat. Treated with clear antirust, it is supported inside the bowl by the head of four lag screws.
The limestone blocks come from the demolition of old buildings, such as these door jambs. Elements of the same kind are found in old material recuperators.
Cut the stone
The dorsal stone placed on the sides, the rounded is cut with the jigsaw equipped with a long blade with big toothing. This soft material saws well at low speed, without forcing too much.
Draw circles and dig your throat
Delineate the reliefs by drawing the two circles of the rosette and a margin of 45 mm around the perimeter. Dig the throat with the gouge around the small circle. Work in small steps.
Go down to the gradin
The digging parts are "down" on the step. Be careful not to skid near the sculptures. Maintain a sufficient angle of attack so that the tool does not slip.
To equalize the streaks
The size stops at 25 cm from the base (a straight line has been drawn). Equalize with a flat, wide chisel that acts like a chisel to remove streaks left by the step.
Prepare the cheeks of the bowl
Prepare the cheeks of the bowl in the massive stones. Without modifying the sections, the base is ground to the railway (sort of planer stone) to reduce the height to 20 cm.
Make a notch
To allow the cheeks to be interlocked with the other parts, make a notch of 45 x 45 mm with two coarse cuts.
Realize the frontal stone
Make the frontal stone 38 x 20 x 9 cm. To soften the corners and allow better continuity with the cheeks, make two small bevel cuts with the saw at the front.
Fix backsplash, cheeks and frontal stone
Secure the backsplash to the wall with two fasteners with screw feet. Install the cheeks and the frontal stone over the existing flow. Assemble using long, flush head screws.
Screw the tap
On the extension pipe through the rose, place the hubcap, a flat nut and a female-female connector of 15 x 21 cm in which is screwed the tap to the tow.
Lay the welded grid
The fountain receives its welded grid before commissioning. Differences in the grade of the stone due to the work performed and the nature of the materials will diminish over time.