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Install a perforated panel to store his workshop tools

Tidy tools strongly help to achieve quality work. The classic toolbox is useful for transporting materials to the job site, but it is not suitable for permanent storage. The ideal is to have a perforated hanging panel, installed in front of the workbench. It has the advantage of always having everything at hand and to be able to find everything in a minimum of time.

Necessary material

  • Pencil
  • Metre
  • Bubble level
  • Tabbed box
  • Backpack saw
  • Plasterboard plugs
  • Anchors for plasterboard
  • Drill
  • screwdriver
  • Screwdriver
  • Hammer
  • square
  • Square tip
  • Clamp

Steps

  1. Mark the fastening points of the cleats on the wall
  2. Put the pegs in place and fix the cleats
  3. Fix the perforated panel

Mark the fastening points of the cleats on the wall

Measurement of the footprint of the panel to the wall

Measurement of the footprint of the panel to the wall

1. Place the panel in front of the workbench, if it is attached to the wall. Also provide a row of electrical outlets under the panel.
Take measurements of the footprint of the panel on the wall.

Post measures on the cleat

Post measures on the cleat

2. Postpone these measurements on the 30x20 fir tree cleats, which will form the framing of the perforated panel.
The layout must be done in pencil and square, to obtain cuts well perpendicular to the axis of the cleats.

Cut a cleat

Cut a cleat

3. The reduced section cleats are easy to saw. Use for this a backpack saw. Block the cleat in a cutting box with a clamp.

Draw a line along the cleat to locate its location

Draw a line along the cleat to locate its location

4. Position the lateral cleats on the wall, after verifying their verticality using a bubble level.
Locating the exact location with a pencil line, a laser level placed on the ground is also a relevant solution.

Mark the attachment points

Mark the attachment points

5. Mark the necessary fastening points in the center of the cleat, according to this positioning.

Drill the cleats

Drill the cleats

6. Drill the cleat and dowel holes in the wall, but this is undesirable because of the different materials of the wall and cleats.
So we worked in successive stages. We made the drilling of the cleats, the marking of the pilot holes and drilling in the wall. It will be best to use a vertical stand drill to ensure proper alignment and verticality of the holes.

Mark the location of the fasteners using the drilled cleat

Mark the location of the fasteners using the drilled cleat

7. Position the cleat once again according to the chosen mark.
Then mark on the wall, through the holes previously drilled, the corresponding locations with a small diameter drill bit.
If the support consists of plasterboard, also use a spin.

Drill with the drill the marking of the fixings

Drill with the drill the marking of the fixings

8. Remove the cleat.
Make holes, with a drill adapted to the material constituting the wall.

Put the pegs in place and fix the cleats

Push in the metal dowels

Push in the metal dowels

1. The support here consists of a doubling plasterboard. Press the metal dowels adapted to this material.

Engage the notch of the clamp under the screw head and tighten

Engage the notch of the clamp under the screw head and tighten

2. Slightly lower the screw, then fully engage the notch of the special "drywall" wall anchor under the head of the screw, tighten both handles securely.

Spring ankle screw

Spring ankle screw

3. Completely remove the ankle bolt, the metal flange now being pressed against the wall, near the positioning mark of the cleat.

Screw the cleats

Screw the cleats

4. Refit the cleat to the marked position, then engage the screw into the already drilled hole, and secure the assembly with a screwdriver.

Framing completed

Framing completed

5. Once the different cleats are in place, the frame is finished.
All that remains is to cut and fix the perforated fiber plate.
It will support the hooks where the different tools will hang.

Fix the perforated panel

Through the panel, locate the cleats

Through the panel, locate the cleats

1. Locate the exact location of the battens through the perforations to secure the plate to its frame.
Mark the wood with a square point.
Get help to set up the perforated panel.

Screw the panel on the cleats

Screw the panel on the cleats

2. Immediately tighten with an electric screwdriver or screwdriver to avoid losing the mark.
Be careful that the screw covers the hole of the plate, so that the fixing is sufficiently solid.

Perforated workshop panel fixed

Fixed panel

3. It remains to dress the perforated panel.
Choose the tools and their different locations, according to their work habits.

Placing hooks on the perforated panel

Placing hooks on the panel

4. Define the distribution of the selected tools.
Then position the corresponding hooks according to the choices made, the shape and size of the tools.

Hanging a clip

Hanging a clip

5. Depending on the tools to hang, choose the best hook model.
These hooks must be positioned so that they can be easily grasped and reinstalled without the risk of catching the tool next to them.
Note that several tests are often necessary to find the best position.

Workshop tools hung on perforated panel

Hooked tools

6. When all tools are hooked up and their placement seems definitive, memorize their position by bringing their profile back to the plate with a felt-tip pen.
Nevertheless, getting in the habit of storing each tool after its use, allows to find them naturally their location.

(photos / visuals: © DIY, except special mention)

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Video Instruction: French cleat storage system for hand tools