- Basic notions
- A protected network
- 1 ASSEMBLY OF EQUIPMENT
- 2 CHOICE OF TOOLS
- 3 INSTALLING CONDUITS AND HOUSINGS
- Facilitate sliding
- 4 CONNECTING THE OUTLETS AND SWITCHES
- 5 ASSEMBLY OF LIGHTING
Without worrying about the aesthetics, connecting plugs and switches in a workshop or a wooden garage is within the reach of all, as soon as the installation is apparent. It only takes a little method and some notions of electricity.
Cost : 200 €
Time: 1 day to two
Equipment: drill, drills, screwdriver, framer saw or miter box, wire stripper, wire cutter, spirit level, chalk powder marker, hammer, screwdriver, pencil, felt
To equip a wooden annex (garage, shed...), it is not necessary to embed the electrical circuits. The solution goes through an apparent installation under rigid PVC sheath. Available in different diameters (16, 20 mm...), it is designed to connect humidity-proof equipment (switch, plugs, etc.).
Before starting installation, a scale plan must be established to position the power supply, switches and outlets.
But some notions of electrical installation must be acquired.
For the catches, the simplest is to position them one after the other. The phase wire (red) runs from the plug from one socket to the other to ensure continuity.
Same principle for neutral (blue) and earth (yellow and green) wires. This parallel connection also applies to the luminaires, except for the switch which only takes the phase wire. In either case, the circuits must be earthed and protected by 10 A circuit breakers for luminaires and 20 A for outlets.
A protected network
Connecting the garage to the house is done here via a trench dug in the garden. The circuits (three 2.5 mm wires2 to power the plugs and a 1.5 mm cable2 for light) are protected by a red corrugated sheath.
This leads to the concrete slab of the garage, to be put in a junction box, which will serve: 6 outlets (on the left panels and bottom of the garage); 3 compact fluorescent strips and the line dedicated to the halogen placed above the bench. These last two circuits are controlled by switches, next to the entrance door.
1 ASSEMBLY OF EQUIPMENT
Get all the accessories: tubes, fasteners (lyre collars) and fittings must be the same diameter (here 16 mm).
To assemble a switch, place the gray module in the housing, cover it with the intermediate plate and the lever. For a plug, place the module in the case and cover it with the flap cover.
2 CHOICE OF TOOLS
A screwdriver without mandrel facilitates the mounting of the lyre fasteners in the crosspieces of the wood panels. Use a magnetic screwdriver bit to hold the screw heads.
A framer saw, or if not a miter box, is ideal for cutting IRL tubes (insulating ducts). The cut obtained is more straightforward than with a simple hacksaw.
A wire stripper has two calibrated knives. Select the correct notch to discover the thread about 8 mm.
3 INSTALLING CONDUITS AND HOUSINGS
Trace the location of the tubes with the chalk line by attaching its metal end with a nail. Stretch the string, impregnated with powder. Pinch it before releasing it to mark the wood.
At the outlet of the duct, slide the cables of the different circuits, left in standby, in an IRL tube Ø 20 mm up to the junction box.
Position and screw the first housing under the ceiling. Cut the rubber from the sealed outlets to the diameter of the IRL tubes. Slide the cables corresponding to the circuits. Push the tubes into the housing until they protrude 5 mm.
Install the other housings by aligning the top part to 1,10 m from the ground. Two wood screws are enough to fix them.
To thread the wires into the tubes, place the three coils side by side and twist the ends of the wires together. So that the strand does not get stuck in the tube, cover it with adhesive tape. In case of difficulty, spray a little silicone oil at the entrance of the tube to facilitate sliding.
4 CONNECTING THE OUTLETS AND SWITCHES
Pass through a tube, the cables that connect the switch to a junction box located above. Insert the assembly into the removable bracket of the housing and into the wall brackets. Connect the live wires (red) to the terminals of the switch.
The round boxes fixed on the bottom panel are a variant for making a bypass (socket, switch) from a line. They replace T-fittings and simplify assembly when there are many wires to be housed.
insert the live wires (red) into one of the terminal blocks and screw. Do the same with the neutrals (blue). The ground wires are connected to the male pin.
In the junction box, connect the jacks and luminaires to the corresponding jacks using the terminal block. Respect the color code.
Finalize the installation by placing at each intersection a clip-on coupling formed of two protective shells. Press firmly to assemble them.
5 ASSEMBLY OF LIGHTING
Align the three compact fluorescent strips. Disassemble the elements that make up the luminaire (transparent cover, fluorescent tube support...) to screw the bases with two screws per strip.
Connect the terminal block of the first strip to the cables that come from the main junction box. Go back to the terminal block to connect the second strip, then starting from the latter, proceed in the same way for the third luminaire.
Replace and lock (two wing nuts ¼ turn) the tube holder. Put the fluorescent tube in place and position the transparent cover.
Attach the halogen projector stage to the workbench. Connect it to its dedicated line controlled by a switch. At each 90° elbow of the circuit, clip the corresponding connectors.
• 3 fl uocompact strips
• 1 halogen floodlight 300 W
• IRL tubes Ø 16 and 20 mm
+ lyre + elbow and T fasteners
clipsable • 6 outlets 20 A 2
+ T waterproof type
• 2 waterproof type switches
• 3 reels, red, blue,
yellow-green H07 V-U in 2.5 mm2
• Cable U 1000 R2V or H07 RNF
3 x 1.5 mm2
• 1 junction box 100 x 100 mm
• 3 round diversion boxes