- Practical advice
- Preparation of dressing boards
- Replacement of damaged blades
- Take off the cross
- Reproduce the molding
- Replace the blades
- Reproduce the oblique
- Adjust and paste
- Saw what exceeds
- Replace the cross
- Fix the lock
A portal exposed to bad weather often deteriorates in the lower part: the water trickles, infiltrates the joints and disjoins the assemblies. It then becomes necessary to replace some pieces of wood.
To improve wood preservation, treat it with a mixture of equal parts linseed oil and turpentine. Then pass two coats of paint.
Instead of vinyl glue, you can use a polyurethane glue that gives excellent results in wet environments.
Handcrafted, this door was made from fir parquet strips assembled by rabbet and tongue and nailed on three oak sleepers. Featuring two leaves, it is equipped with bayonet locks that engage in the upper part in a metal frame and, in the lower part, in hooves (bumpers sealed in the ground). Over the years, rain and moisture have caused the wood to rot. The fasteners of the lower locks then gave way. These are the locking points and the bottom of some panels that are redone.
The two doors of the door are taken up by hinges on a metal frame sealed to the masonry. Each wing is composed of two leaves.
● The first job is to break a flapper and lay it flat. The screws of the three flat hinges are then removed to separate the two leaves. To cut the damaged blades, the bottom rail must be removed. This is achieved by removing the four lag bolts that secure it to the hinge. Then a flat chisel slides between the crossbar and the blades by levering to separate the crossbar. We can then judge the damage caused by the wood rot.
Preparation of dressing boards
The panels here consist of section blades 70 x 24 mm with, along their length, decorative half-round molding made with a special plane. Given the impossibility of getting such a plane, the trick was to groove new blades 10 mm from the edge with a small flat mill 1.5 mm thick. Then the edges were slaughtered with a triangular scraper. The trick can reproduce fairly faithfully the original half-round. In the blades thus prepared, all that remains is to cut the pieces of wood necessary for the repair.
Replacement of damaged blades
The part to be changed is cut at an angle at the crossbar. The angle of cut does not matter. Its role is simply to increase the bonding surface. By positioning a prepared blade under the door and postponing the outline of the cut, one is assured to have a correct junction. This method is repeated for the next blade if it is also deteriorated.
● Gluing is done with vinyl wood glue. Coat the surfaces in contact and place the press assembly with clamps. The next day, it is possible to reclunk the piece of wood.
● The new blades are then trimmed and sawed in the alignment of the bottom of the door. The bolts find their place of origin: the bayonet must engage in the hole of the hoof-floor stopper.
● To compensate for the thickness of the cross member, a shim of 145 x 70 x 24 mm is interposed between the bottom of the dressing boards and the sole of the lock. Last step, the lubrication of the slide locks to facilitate their maneuver.
Take off the cross
Removal of the hinges separates the two adjacent leaves. The cross member must be removed to cut the blades. With a flat chisel, peel off the crossbar.
Reproduce the molding
To reproduce the molding on the boards, use a special planer or milling cutter. Here, a bleeding is practiced at 10 mm from the edge to the flat cutter. To finish with the triangular scraper.
Replace the blades
The blades next to the lock must be replaced. Delimit the damaged site with an oblique line. Cut slowly with a jigsaw and eliminate the maximum rotten wood.
Reproduce the oblique
To reproduce the slant on the new blade, superimpose the old one, respecting the rabbet and tongue sides. Trace and cut carefully following the line.
Adjust and paste
Perform setup tests and adjust if necessary. To improve the collage, stripe the edge of the cuts with the back of a rasp. Then coat them with exterior vinyl glue
Saw what exceeds
Taking the collage allows time to position the pieces in the same plane. Place two large clamps across. Saw, with a handsaw, the tips that protrude from the bottom
Replace the cross
Reclose the crossbar to its original location. To reach the initial thickness, screw a 145 x 70 x 24 mm fir-tree shim on the bottom drop.
Fix the lock
Secure the bayonet lock with six screws that should not be bothered by others. The bolt shank engages in the hoof hole. The door must not show any play back and forth.