- Practical advice
- Partitions with openings
- Install the lintel
- The support pole
- The panel door
- Safety first!
- Trace the contour of the cut
- Cut out the wall
- Perform the vertical cut
- The essential lintel
- Bend and secure the anchors
- Bring lintels and uprights together
- Block the lintel
- Amounts of support.
- Drop the wall
- Connect the panel head and lintel
- Seal the base of the pole
- Seal the legs of the pole
- Finish opening
To widen the passage between two rooms, it is to decompartmentalize the spaces by obtaining more surface and light. From now on, the entry opens largely on the living room.
Cost: about 100 €
Time: 1 day
Supplies: 9 x 13 cm framing lumber, sealing feet, framing connectors, screws, plaster, cement
tooling: hammer chisel, screwdriver, hand saw, plaster tile saw, level, trough, plaster trowel, bricklayers, square
Bearer or not?
Before starting the site, precautions must be taken. It must indeed determine if the wall is carrying or if it is a simple partition. Soundings on both sides of the ceilings showed that the floor floor beams rested on them. It is therefore a supporting wall, hence the need to support both sides.
Mason's candles and bastaings temporarily support the load until consolidation. on the contrary, a partition is not meant to support. More or less light, it often separates two pieces, goes from wall to wall, but the structure does not rest on it.
Partitions with openings
In the past, the interior of most houses was organized in the same way: access to the different parts was done through an entrance hall or corridor. Almost every room had a chimney, hence the tendency to partition to conserve heat.
Since then, the concept of habitat has changed. We favor large volumes, unhindered circulation, an atmosphere bathed in light brought by large glazed surfaces. many transformations are possible to improve an old building: tear down partitions or widen openings, as is the case for this site that will allow free access to the lounge.
Install the lintel
The strength and recovery of loads are guaranteed by a piece of fir tree 9 x 13 cm section. It rests on one side on a standing foot and on the other on a notch practiced in the wall. The new opening 135 cm wide and 215 cm high is not symmetrical with respect to the initial door. It is deported to the left to a cutaway of the wall that limits the width of the enlargement.
Everything starts with a line on the wall, above the top rail of the door frame. It is a 20 cm high rectangle extending to the left to the edge of the cutaway, and to the right overflowing 15 cm above the door jamb. The part of wall delimited by this route is then demolished with electric hammer taking care not to move the props.
A vertical cut of the plaster wall and clinker (the ancestor of the plaster tile), sawing large gear, defines the left side of the passage. The amounts of the old door extend to reach the upper floor. Caution when cutting, because the wall is weakened. Drowned in the plaster, these amounts will not be totally removed but sawn to allow passage to the lintel.
The lintel is provided with bent lugs in the upper part and is inserted into the groove and rests on the top rail of the door. It is immediately attached to the ends of the amounts of the old door by four flat connectors galvanized perforated sheet. The upper space of the lintel is then filled by both sides with the plaster prepared rather tight. As soon as the seal has set, the equalization scraping is done with the edge of the trowel or, better, with a trowel "berthelée" (two-edged special for this work).
The support pole
Located on the left, it defines the opening and supports the end of the lintel. On the right, the door jamb will remain in place after cutting the top rail of the frame. now disconnected from the rest, the wall block can be removed by tilting it. The 9 x 13 cm post, with three bent legs on its side, penetrates 7 cm into the ground and rests under the lintel. It is attached to each side by a connector plate. Reservations made in the wall allow the plastering of the brackets.
The finished work, the opening receives on each side a dressing in BA 13 plasterboard, fixed by sticks of mortar glue and screwed on the wooden frame. The edge of the cut is concealed by screwed strips and the angles are reinforced by the armed band. The finishes are successively to coatings large and fine with final sanding paper 150. Finally, a specific underlay for gypsum board precedes the two layers of decorative paint.
The panel door
The panel door is a classic of the 1900s. The doorframe, whose jambs have been removed, is extended by two studs that join the floor.
The wall contributes to the support of the upper floor. Brace each side with bastaings under the ceiling and foot. Hold the key of the props firmly.
Trace the contour of the cut
Trace the contour of the cut to be done by helping you to a great level. The lower line is at the top rail of the frame. The upper line 20 cm above.
Cut out the wall
To clear the inside of the outline, you can use a chainsaw equipped with a material disc. Disadvantage: dust. It is better to work with a hammer chisel.
Perform the vertical cut
The vertical cut, very close to the edge of the wall, is made with a special saw for plaster tiles or with a big-toothed hand saw. A saber saw can also be useful.
The essential lintel
Saw the two jambs of the frame at the top rail and about 13 cm higher. This dimension corresponds to the height of the lintel and allows its passage.
Bend and secure the anchors
Sealing tabs are bent to the vise at the rounded portion. Spread the carp tails and attach three legs to the top of the lintel.
Bring lintels and uprights together
Use a flat sheet metal connector and Ø 6-35 mm screws to join the lintel to the top of the jamb. Do the same for the other amount and those on the other side.
Block the lintel
Here, on the room side, the blocking of the lintel is done by trowelling a tight tempered plaster. Press well on the sealing tabs. Fill and scrape the excess with a trowel.
Amounts of support.
Along the vertical cut, make three reservations to seal the mounting posts of the support post. The use of the chisel is practical in this case.
Drop the wall
Saw the frame upright in the right corner, just under the lintel. While one person tilts the wall, another holds it to rest on the floor.
Connect the panel head and lintel
Screw the sealing tabs onto the post. Check the vertical level at the bubble level and connect the head of the post and the lintel with two connectors.
Seal the base of the pole
The base of the post rests in a notch made in the soil concrete. Wedge down and then permanently seal with cement mortar. Tighten with the tongue-of-cat trowel.
Seal the legs of the pole
Seal the legs of the post by stuffing the plaster cavities. As soon as you take it, prepare the surfaces as best you can. On the left, the woodwork belongs to the frame of an old walled door.
Finishes consist of putting plasterboard on both sides of the walls (and the perimeter). Passage to the plaster, sanding and painting will complete the enlarged opening.