The Content Of The Article:

Aesthetic and durable, zinc gutters adapt to all facade styles. Their implementation, however, requires some knowledge of welding to carry out a project without any other difficulty.

DIY: a tutorial to successfully secure the gutter

Difficulty: 2/4
Cost: developed gutter 25 cm: about 15 € / m (accessories included), birth + double elbows descent: about 20 € the unit, descent: about 20 € / m (accessories included)
Time: 1 day approximately to two (excluding implementation: aerial platform or scaffolding)
Equipment: cord, spirit level, sheet metal shears, roofer's hammer, zinc iron, perforator, forklift or bucket (rented)...

A gutter consists of at least one channel and a down pipe. This one usually meets a look connected to an underground pipe. But it can also end with a dolphin when the rainwater is discharged on the surface.

The closed channel at the ends of a gutter

Rolled on itself, the front edge of the gutter forms a hem or circular pudding. Although small, its diameter is enough to reinforce the rigidity of the gutter. The ends are closed by inserts (heels) of identical profile, prefabricated or not.
When the gutter is more than 12 m long, a dilation bag must be placed at the junction of the two sections, in reverse slope.
This makes it possible to direct the water towards each end and, in the case of zinc, to absorb its movements of dilation and shrinkage caused by the changes of temperature.
But you can also insert an expansion joint and keep a single gutter slope.

Hanging or worn?

Depending on whether it rests on hooks or directly on the roof, the gutter is said to be hanging or, on the contrary, worn (with the Havre, Nantes, etc. variants). On some architectures, it can be carried by a cornice (entablature) or the top of a wall (gouttereau).
Only made in zinc, the book then takes the name of English gutter. However, if it has a structure (wood) dressed with zinc, it becomes a gutter.

Slope and downhill

Apparent or hidden, the descent does not always connect directly under the gutter, but via a funnel-shaped part, called birth or stump.
In addition to its profile profile (half-round, square, ovoid...), a gutter is characterized by its length and especially by its section or development.
Originally, it is a strip of metal (zinc or copper) which, after bending on itself, gives birth to the gutter. The width of this band (in centimeters) always defines its development or developed.
This is called a gutter of 16, 25, 28, 33, etc. Even when it is PVC. The section, or development, is dictated by the area of ​​the roof and the area where the structure is located.
These data also condition the number and the diameter of the descents as well as the way of integrating the slope of the canal. Up to 12 m long, it is customary to provide only one slope from one end to the other. Beyond 12 m, a slope can be provided from the ends to a central point, or from the central point to the ends. This slope varies from 0.5 to 1 cm / m and must take into account the requirements of NF DTU 60.11 *.
* Building work - Calculation rules for plumbing and stormwater installations - Part 3: Stormwater drainage.

Do we have the right to have a gutter that flows into the neighbor's gutter?

Christian Pessey's answer:
It is forbidden to dump your rainwater at your neighbor's house.
It is therefore necessary to install a gutter directing the water towards its ground.
But if the natural slope directs water to the neighbor's land, he can not say anything.
To evacuate rainwater to the sewer, it is necessary to inform itself of the possible existence of a separate network.

Gutter PVC: what advantages?

Choose a PVC or zinc gutter

More than thirty years ago, the arrival of PVC in the field of gutters helped to democratize their implementation.
Much cheaper than zinc or copper, it is tinted in the mass and its pose is much simpler: no need to know how to handle the soldering iron, a tube of glue is enough. Although its longevity remains lower than that of zinc, it resists better than its main rival to difficult conditions (oxidizing pollution, sea air, etc.).
Except at altitude where it is forbidden to use it above 900 m.
To know more: Copper PVC gutter

1 Fixing the hooks of a gutter

1 Fixing the hooks of a gutter

Push the square-tipped hooks from one end of the roof: just under the overhang of the tiles and into the top of the walls.

Tutorial: How to fix a zinc gutter?: tutorial

Fix the second hook at the other end or, as here, halfway along the wall, to create a double slope.
Tie a line between the lowest points of the two hooks.

Tutorial: How to fix a zinc gutter?: gutter

The objective is to obtain a slope of 0.5 to 1 cm / m from the end hook to that fixed at mid-length.
Check with a graduated spirit level and, if necessary, adjust the hook tabs.

Tutorial: How to fix a zinc gutter?: tutorial

Determine the interval between square brackets (here 60 cm) according to the DTU requirements.
In addition to the section of the gutter, it takes into account the mechanical stress induced by the snow.

Tutorial: How to fix a zinc gutter?: tutorial

Press the loaded tips to hold the following hooks: each must penetrate 10 to 15 cm at the top of the wall.

Tutorial: How to fix a zinc gutter?: tutorial

Then align each of the hooks under the cord by adjusting it with the help of its shaft.

2 Welding of the heel and the birth of the gutter

2 Welding of the heel and the birth of the gutter

While the soldering iron heats up, fit the heel to the end of the gutter.
Add a little zinc stripper or hydrochloric acid in solution at the junction of the two elements.

Tutorial: How to fix a zinc gutter?: gutter

Lay the iron tip in the inside bead-gutter angle (from the middle outwards).
Melt the solder in contact with the tip.
At the edge of the gutter, finish the joint by going back to the other edge.

Tutorial: How to fix a zinc gutter?: gutter

Gutter turned over, place the birth (prefabricated too) about 10 cm from the end that remains open.
Center and trace its outline in pencil on the gutter.

Tutorial: How to fix a zinc gutter?: tutorial

Flip the gutter and smash it into the center of the heel with a sharp tool.
Enlarge the hole in the sheet metal shears by cutting in a spiral pattern.

Tutorial: How to fix a zinc gutter?: gutter

Strip the edges of the birth.
Then start with the breakdown of the iron in contact with the zinc and solder, while placing the birth against the gutter.

Tutorial: How to fix a zinc gutter?: zinc

Welded on half of its circumference, the birth holds enough to finish the other side.
In case of thickening of the seal, smooth it with a damp cloth.

3 Installation of the gutter

3 Installation of the gutter

Turn the gutter on itself to go under the overhang of the roof.
Then check its alignment with the end of the roof.

Tutorial: How to fix a zinc gutter?: zinc

Fold the front and back tabs of the hooks inside the gutter.

Tutorial: How to fix a zinc gutter?: tutorial

The second section fits on the first, respecting the flow direction of the water.
Braze.

Tutorial: How to fix a zinc gutter?: gutter

Assembled between them, the elbows and backstops provided at the beginning of the descent can locate the location of it on the wall (here, a little away from the junction of the original construction and its extension).

Tutorial: How to fix a zinc gutter?: gutter

Push in the ankle and screw on the clip used to hold the start of the descent.
Four bindings are provided for the entire height: one every 2 m or so, except the last, which is 80 cm above the ground.

Tutorial: How to fix a zinc gutter?: tutorial

Of special shape, the self-locking rings corresponding to the fasteners simply slip around the descent.

Tutorial: How to fix a zinc gutter?: gutter

They then lock on the arrowheads of the fasteners without preventing the movements of the zinc.

Supplies

• Zinc gutter, heels, birth...
• Hooks and special points
• Descents, elbows
• Fixings and dowels
• Remover for zinc, hydrochloric acid or zinc chloride in solution
• 40% Tin solder


Video Instruction: Gutters 1 Components and How to Splice