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Realization of a wooden bench

This is a real realization of joinery: how to realize a rustic bench in solid wood, with fixed assembly of tenon and mortise feet, and removable assembly of the other elements.

Necessary material

  • Metre
  • Grease pencil
  • square
  • Trusquin
  • Handsaw
  • Backpack saw
  • Plane
  • Drill
  • Wood presses
  • Wood scissors
  • Mallet
  • Abrasive
  • Sanding wedge
  • Wood glue
  • glaze
  • Milling bit

Steps

  1. Prepare the frame of the bench
  2. Trace and open the mortises
  3. How to assemble the bench
  4. Fix boards, ensure finishes

Prepare the frame of the bench

Taking measurements for the feet, high and low spacers.

Taking measurements for feet, high and low spacers

1. On a piece of 65 x 45 mm fir tree, locate the measurement of 450 mmit will be the height of the feet of the bench. Then take in the same section twice the measurement of 220 mm to form the two high spacers.
Prenred finally twice the measure of 270 mm to constitute the two low spacers.

Tracing cut at right angle.

Cutting trimming at right angles

2. On these landmarks, make plots of square cut. Make sure that the pencil lead is well trimmed, so that the line is reduced in thickness.

Cutting wood with handsaw.

Wood cutting with handsaw

3. With a handsaw, make the different cuts previously drawn.

Measurement for mortises.

Measurement for mortises

4. In the width direction, ie 65 mm, measure from the upper edge of the four uprights a distance of 45 mm. It will constitute the mortises intended to receive, by interlocking, the tenons of the two high spacers.

Trace and open the mortises

Tracing the depths of mortises.

Tracing the depths of mortises

1. In order to save time, one can perform two by two the lines of the depths of mortise. This work must be done using a square, in order to obtain perfectly adjusted cuts.

Adjustment of the truscan.

Adjustment of the truscan

2. Set the truscan to the thickness of the mortise studs. Then make the traces on the same side, but this time in the axis of the amounts.

Diagram of the bunching.

Diagram of the interlocking

3. Mark the base of the mortises on the lower part of the uprights and 75 mm from their lower end.
These mortises will welcome the tenons of the low spacers. Pay attention to their dimensions, 20 mm of depth and 65 mm of height, because these two spacers will be assembled on their height, unlike those of the top, which are assembled on their width.
The high line of delimitation of the spacer must therefore be drawn 140 mm from the lower end of each amount. Trace out the lateral delimitations of these mortises.

Scheme spacer high and low.

Scheme spacer high and low

4. On the 65 mm siding, and in the center of each lower spacer, make the outline of the mortise to accommodate a depth of 20 mm, the crossbar section of which is 55 x 30 mm for a length of 1060 mm.

Vertical section of the wood to release a post.

Vertical section of the wood to release a post

5. Using a pencil, draw braces on the pieces of wood that are to be removed, in order not to confuse the cuts. Then make a vertical cut with the backpack saw, in order to clear the tenon.

Horizontal cut to clear a post.

Horizontal cut to release a post

6. Depending on the plots, make the horizontal cuts to finish clearing the studs from the spacers.

Realization of mortises with chisel and mallet.

Making mortises with chisel and mallet

7. With a chisel and a carpenter's mallet, make the four high mortises of the uprights, which one will have previously begun to open by two parallel saw cuts.
Whenever possible, hold a chisel slightly smaller than the mortise to be dug.
Indeed, when one is not an informed professional, it is better to keep a margin of dimension rather than to expose himself to notch the amounts of the mortise.

Opening of low mortises of the uprights.

Opening low mortises of the uprights

8. Open the lower mortises of the uprights, to a depth of 20 mm. These mortises are intended to receive the tenons of the lower spacers.

Opening of the central mortise.

Opening the central mortise

9. Always at a depth of 20 mm, finally open the central mortise of the two bottom spacers.

How to assemble the bench

Blank assembly.

Blank assembly

1. It is important to do tests ofblank assembly to correct any defects. Then glue the tenons with wood glue. Bring a mallet and a wedge to make the final assemblies of the feet of the bench.

Maintaining assemblies using a wood press.

Maintaining assemblies

2. It is now necessary to maintain the assemblies in wood presses, the time that the glue dries, variable time depending on the product used.

Sanding finishing with fine abrasive.

Sanding finishing with fine abrasive

3. Complete this work with a sanding finish, using a sanding block and a fairly fine abrasive.

Assembly of sleepers.

Mounting sleepers

4. Position the cross member by fitting its two ends into the central grooves of the two bottom braces of the feet. Attention, this collage must not be realized if one has chosen to make the bench removable!

Drilling a low spacer.

Drilling a low spacer

5. Drill each lower spacer in the center. For this, use a wick 6 mm in diameter, to an average depth of 65 mm, whether for furniture assembly bolts or conventional screws. If you do not find this type of assembly accessories, use instead of 6 x 50 mm screws.
In this case, only the thickness of the spacer should be drilled to this diameter, ie 45 mm - 20 mm mortise depth. A pre-drilling with a drill bit of a smaller diameter, 3.5 or 4 mm, is then required for the remainder of the depth required: end drilling, in the wood of the central cross-beam of the bench.

Milling.

drilling

6. Then mill the hole hole, because the countersunk head of the screws must remain accessible, without exceeding the surface (disassembly possible) or be completely embedded in the wood and then covered with wood paste (case non removable bench).

Inserting the screw and tightening.

Setting up the screw and tightening

7. Insert the screw by pushing and screwing until tight. Applying a little soap on the thread of the screw facilitates its implementation and its possible subsequent extraction.

Fix boards, ensure finishes

Positioning the boards.

Planks positioning

1. On erect feet, position the two fir boards (1380x160x25 mm) that make up the board. Maintain a separation between them by a slight gap.

Fixing the boards on the high spacers.

Fixing the boards on the high spacers

2. Fasten the planks on top of the top spacers, with the same elements and in the same way, that the lower crossbar has been fixed. Always with both options possible disassembly / disassembly impossible.

Sanding the screw heads.

Sanding the screw heads

3. Reduce the edges of the bench planks to the plane before final finishing sanding around the screw heads. Depending on the chosen option (disassembly possible or not), the screws will be hidden or left visible.

Laminate the bench.

Lasurer of the bench

4. Finish this work by applying a decorative brush with a brush, but which will also have a fungicidal role. This stain, unlike a paint, leaves visible the veins of the wood.

Tutorial: How to make a rustic solid wood bench: tutorial

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