The Content Of The Article:

Unsightly ducts are better hidden. In addition to masking, in the case of piping "noisy", a formwork ensures a good sound reduction. And for more aesthetics, you can dress it with a tile.

Hide pipes by forming a tiled formwork

Necessary material

  • spirit level,
  • square,
  • metre,
  • notched spatula,
  • raclette
  • sponge,
  • tile cutter,
  • Sandpaper,
  • scraper or laminated claw,
  • screwdriver drill,
  • jigsaw,
  • puncher,
  • grinder

Difficulty: 2/4
Cost: 15 €
Time: 1 day

When necessary, networks must remain accessible. This is the case, for example, solenoid valves of a heated floor. If it is pipes or ducts without any equipment (purge, electrical box...), it is possible to achieve a fixed form, as here. The thermal insulation (and / or sound) obtained with such forms can even be improved by placing insulating sleeves on the pipes.

Which materials to choose for a formwork?

Wood-based panels and drywall or gypsum board are suitable for formwork in dry rooms. In a bathroom, the ideal is to opt for tiling panels that offer a better grip surface. The choice also depends on the falls and tools available. It is for example quite simple to use plasterboard cutter cutter. To fix the panels, planed cleats or rough sawn battens are very suitable. These connecting pieces are fixed by screws and dowels in the masonry. In the case of very light formwork, it is possible to fix the brackets and panels simply by gluing or using brackets.

A cut to the card

All tiles must be cut to size by providing a joint 1 to 5 mm thick, depending on the case. We use a tile for simple cuts and a grinder for more complex cuts (notches...). Any drilling is done with a diamond saw, at very low speed.

Cutting of parts for formwork

Measure for formwork

  • Counting wide: the depth of the formwork is here determined by the height of the skirting boards.
  • Take into account the thickness of the support panel (19 mm): the pipes must not be cramped.

Scrape the glue on the melamine panels

  • Tile glues adhere poorly on melamine panels (here falls).
  • Sand or scratch the surface with a scraper or laminate shoe.


Make a sketch for the formwork

  • Even for a simple formwork, it is better to make a sketch.
  • It serves as a memory aid when cutting parts and avoids errors in setting up.
  • For example, the headband comes under the tablet that caps it, not the other way around.

Cut the melamine

  • If there is no circular saw, use a jigsaw.
  • Even if it produces some chips on the surface of the melamine chipboard, it does not matter, the support being covered.

Trace the cut of the tiles

  • Directly mark the markers for cutting the tiles (again, a remnant of the soil renovation project) by presenting them at their intended location on the formwork.

Measurements on chopping tiles

  • Then connect the marks with a cut line drawn with a carpenter's square, a grease pencil or felt.

Using a tile

  • Use a tile to cut the tiles.
  • Make a superficial incision along the entire length of the cut, then press the tile to break.

Facade panel must absorb skirting overhang

  • The façade panel must absorb the edge of the skirting boards sealed on the panel, but also on the tiles that will cover it, the layout is made directly from a plinth element.

Cutting the tile with a grinder

  • On the tiles, cutting is done with a grinder equipped with a diamond disc.

Formwork assembly

Draw the boundaries of the location of the support panels

  • Temporarily place the support panels in order to trace the limits of their location on the wall.
  • It will then suffice to shift these features of 19 mm (thickness of the panels) to align the brackets intended to support them.

Cut the cleats

  • Cut the cleats or battens.
  • Drill a few holes, evenly spaced, to the diameter of the screws.

control of the horizontality of the cleat

  • After piercing the wall and inserting the anchors (adapted to the nature of the masonry, for hollow or solid wall) following the path, screw the first cleat, then control its horizontality to the spirit level.

Drill the soil through the cleats

  • Drill the soil through the cleats using a drill with a concrete drill.
  • Use a Ø 5 mm drill, then widen the hole with a Ø 8 mm drill bit.

Screw the panels on the cleats

  • Screw the support panels together and on the cleats (screws Ø 4 x 50 mm) after having made pilot holes and milled the holes so that the screws do not protrude.

Lay the tiles

  • Glue the surfaces (panels and tiles) with a toothed spatula whose characteristics depend on the type of glue used (classic tile glue, two-component glue or putty-glue).
  • Put the tiles in place, then make the joints.

Supplies for making a tiled formwork

  • Wood-based panels (or drywall or tiling panels)
  • Cleats (30 x 30 mm) or battens (30 x 40 mm)
  • Wood screws 5 x 70/4 x 50 mm
  • Pegs Ø 8 mm
  • Wood glue
  • Floor tile
  • Tile adhesive
  • Joint cement

Video Instruction: How to Build a Foundation