- Necessary material
- From the roof depends the rest
- Optimal insulation for the shed
- What authorization to mount a shed?
- 1. Realization of the base for the shed
- 2. Assembly of the timber frame
- 3. Laying plasterboard in the shed
- 4. Laying insulation in the cabana
- 5. Wall cladding
- Tips for DIYers
- 6. Installing the cover for the shed
- Why choose extruded polycarbonate?
- 7. Realization of the finishing of the cabanon
Lit by the roof, this small building clad with larch clapboard can be used as a greenhouse, workshop or shelter for storing gardening equipment. Its wood frame and polycarbonate design is designed to last.
- Spirit level
- Great rule
- Japanese saw or knife for insulators
- Bell saw
- Screwdriver drill
- Circular saw
- Miter saw
- Pneumatic stapler (rental with compressor)
- Cover (Dhaze) polycarbonate kit, ep. 32 mm
- Lumber 40 x 120 mm
- Chevrons 75 x 100 mm
- Half herringbone 40 x 60 mm
- Parquet or panel
- Waterproof plasterboard
- Wood wool insulation 120 x 1,220 x 575 mm
- Rain film
- Insulating tape
- Larch cloves
- Opening frame 640 x 450 mm
- Door 730 x 2050 mm
- Aluminum corners 30 x 30 and 60 x 60 mm
- 60 mm corrugated stainless steel tips
- Staples 10 and 40 mm
- 4 x 30 wood screws, 5 x 70, 6 x 100 mm
- Stainless steel screws 4 x 30 mm anchor bolts
- Concrete screw 7,5 x 152 mm
- Self drilling screws 3.5 x 16 mm
- Reinforced mounting brackets 80 x 80 x 60 mm
Cost: 2,800 € (excluding concrete slab, electricity, interior fittings)
Time: 5 weeks (including three for drying the slab)
When you want build an annex (cabanon, shed...) on its ground, it is necessary to anticipate the building site to conform to the regulations in force in his commune and select the right products.
From the roof depends the rest
For this project, the dimensions of the structure are determined by those of the cover elements, that it is better to order before the beginning of the works. The dimensions of industrialized products such as extruded polycarbonate sheets are standardized: in this case, they are delivered in widths of 125 cm and lengths of 2 to 7 m, cut at the factory.
Cutting in width is not recommended because it eliminates the reinforced edges. It is therefore necessary to precisely determine the dimensions of the roof before deducing those of the construction. The plates, profiles and seals assembly forms a coherent system. On this site, it is a kit manufactured in France and ordered through a specialized site (toitureonline.com), which offers a technical follow-up by phone. In order to determine the dimensions of the timber frame, the total width of the roof must be taken into account. By taking care to integrate the dimensions of the plates, expansion joints between the plates and edge profiles.
Optimal insulation for the shed
The construction technique is similar to that of a wood frame house, which ensures longevity and quality.
The frame - which rests on a wall - is made of lumber section 120 x 45 mm screwed together. It is counter-winded by water-repellent plasterboards. Insulation is ensured by wood wool panels (120 mm thick) which fill the thickness of the walls (Isonat, Steico, Paraflex...).
In addition, ventilated air gap and one rain barrier protect the insulation from moisture. The structure rests on a plane support which insulates it from the ground to avoid the rise of humidity. The solution chosen is a reinforced concrete slab cast on a hedgehog (bed of gravel); we can also build a shed on concrete pads, then make a floor.
What authorization to mount a shed?
The surface of the construction determines the formalities to be carried out. If the footprint (its surface including the elements that protrude, such as awnings, terraces more than 60 cm high...) is less than 5 m² and that it is not in a protected sector (historic building, natural area...), no formality prior to its construction is required.
On the other hand, it is imperative to comply with the rules laid down in the Local Urban Plan (PLU) of the municipality, especially concerning the area of implantation on the parcel. If the surface of the building is less than or equal to 20 m² and that it must be built on land that already has a building, only one authorization request is necessary.
In the case of a higher surface area or where there is no existing building on the cadastral parcel, obtaining a building permit is mandatory. For a treehouse perched in the trees, the surface taken into account to know the applicable regulations is that of the ground projection of the hut.
Finally, above 5 m², even for a tool shed or shed, a development fee is due. It depends on the municipality and the surface of the building (more information on: //logement.gouv.fr/calcul-de-la-taxe-d-amenagement-571).
1. Realization of the base for the shed
- Mark the location of the foundation slab with shuttering boards, then make a hedgehog.
- Scrape (Ø 10 mm) and tie at the intersections.
- Make a concrete dosed at 350 kg / m³.
- Spread it evenly with the rake.
- Then pull the slab to the ruler. Use the formwork as a guide.
- The complete drying of this slab 10 cm thick requires waiting 21 days before continuing the work.
2. Assembly of the timber frame
- All lumber used is Class 3.
- Cut along the posts and the rails (120 x 40 mm).
- Assemble the structure flat with wood screws 6 x 100 mm.
- Provide spacings between amounts adjusted to the dimensions of the door, the window...
- Rigidify the structure screwing provisional struts.
- For avoid rising damp, it is necessary to insert a band of adhesive arase (tarred or rubber) under the low rail before its installation.
- Place the first big side.
- Place a polyane strip along the jamb at the junction of the masonry wall or glue a strip of arase.
- Fix the low rail on the slab, either with an anchor bolt (type Fischer FBN II 10/30), or by pulls and dowels, or by chemical sealing.
- Place a anchor point every 60 cm about.
- Against a wall, insert an insulating strip.
- Check the plumb of the upright and fix it with knocking pins.
- They are efficient and easy to use.
- Continue with the presentation perpendicular wall.
- Here the gable wall has a reservation for the passage of the water networks.
- It is drawn directly on the low rail.
- Make the cut and leave this frame on hold.
- The big side of the construction will be winded by a plasterboard before placing the perpendicular pinion.
3. Laying plasterboard in the shed
- Plasterboard, here water-repellent, is used to counteract and rigidify the structure.
- Cut them to the cutter, guided by a ruler.
- On a wooden support, fix the plates with special screws (trumpet head) or staple them (40 mm staples), using the pneumatic stapler.
- We can now put in place the perpendicular module against the plasterboard and the head uprights.
- Check plumb, clamp and screw (6 x 100 mm wood screws).
To fix heavy decorative elements (mirror, coat hook...), think of sticking at the right height plywood falls against the plasterboard, then screw the element directly on the wall and avoid the use of special dowels.
- Screw the frame of the opening frame between the uprights, then the window sill.
- Remember to groove a drop of water at the outer end of its underside.
- Continue placing the plasterboard to close and contravene the two walls.
- Then, place the frame that includes the entrance.
- Logically, there is no low rail at the door.
- Maintain a precise gap and alignment by clamping a ruler against the low rails.
- To connect two aligned structural elements in the same plane, screw (wood screw 5 x 70 mm) a connecting piece (a fall of lumber) against the high and low rails
- The part of the building located above the masonry wall is isolated from it by a floor nailed on joists.
- Preferably use a pneumatic nailer.
- Arrange the four chevrons supporting the cover according to the spacing determined by the positioning of the support profiles of the cover kit (here, 126 cm).
4. Laying insulation in the cabana
- The wood wool can be directly set up between the amounts.
- Their standard width is provided for a center distance of 60 cm.
- Dig grooves in the insulation to integrate the pipes. Arrivals of water are thus protected from frost.
- The electrical conduits can be clamped between the plate and the insulation.
- To cut them out, use a Japanese saw.
- Unroll (horizontally) and staple a rainscreen over the entire structure.
- Cut the strips with the cutter, the strips must overlap on at least 10 cm.
5. Wall cladding
- The cladding is based on half-chevrons (40 x 60 mm): screw the first on the low rails, then put two spacer pins to fix the following with a regular gap.
- The last batten follows the slope of the rafter against which it is screwed (screw 6 x 100 mm).
- Continue fixing the half-rafters all around the building.
Tips for DIYers
- To protect the tongue during assembly of the clapboard, insert a wedge-martyr (a fall of wood) before using a mallet or hammer.
- If blades are slightly arched, straighten them using a clamp.
- Bridle a ruler under the lower batten to provide a positioning stop for the clapboard.
- The first cladding blade is planed in length to remove the groove and offset from the thickness of a lap (20 mm) outward to cover the perpendicular clasp.
- Nail using stainless steel tips 60 mm.
- Cut the top of the cladding into place on the sprocket wall, squeezing the circular saw's guide ruler in line with the rafter or on the fly with a jigsaw.
6. Installing the cover for the shed
- Cut the rafters carrying the cover so that they are covered by the clapboard.
- Using a ruler, check the overhang of the profiles that should cover the clapboard.
- Fit the seals on the profiles, allowing them to protrude by about 1 cm, then screw the brackets forming the end stop, maintain a gap of 1 cm.
- Screw a profile edge against the back side of the clapboard wall gable.
- Fix the rafters against the high rails with brackets, then the intermediate profiles.
- Drill and mill Ø 4 mm holes along the support profiles every 30 cm.
- Screw the support profiles onto the rafters with stainless steel screws (4 x 30 mm).
- Close the free space between rafters, cover and top rail with spacers adjusted in width and length, so that ensure the airtightness of the room.
- The boards can be held by screwed brackets.
- Complete the insulation with strips of wood wool covered with stitched rain shields on the high rail and the spacers.
- The U-shaped profiles (supplied with the kit) are placed at the ends of the polycarbonate panels.
- In the center of their underside, drill (Ø 4 mm) for attachment.
- Remove the protective film by identifying the outer side, treated anti-UV.
- Close the cells with a micro-perforated adhesive tape, then place the shutter profiles.
Why choose extruded polycarbonate?
The extruded polycarbonate offers a mechanical resistance and thermal performance interesting because of its honeycomb structure. Adhesive tapes and specific profiles are used at the end of the panels so as not to completely close off the cells.
- Lay the plates on the lip seals of the profiles, the lower part abutting on the screwed brackets.
- Light, the plates are manipulated to a person.
- The glazing beads cover the junction of the plates.
- Drill on their axis every 30 cm approximately (Ø 5 mm),
- Then place stainless steel screws and sealing washers (delivered by the manufacturer).
- Screw the edge profiles closing the sides of the roof.
- Two aluminum angles were added to the kit: one between the clapboard and the edge profile and another at the top of the roof.
7. Realization of the finishing of the cabanon
- After laying the cover, place the cladding and the door and window frames.
- This makes it possible to adjust more precisely the height of the clapboard under the polycarbonate plates.
- Before barding around openings, set up the door and adjust the frames formed by the clapboard or planks.
- To clean the roof, use a mild or specialized cleaner.
- If you have to walk on the plates; insert a large panel to distribute the weight.
The huts feed the imagination, decorate the garden and create new uses. The book is for all DIYers, novices or experienced. Whether you want a cabanon for tidy up your tools, a shaded relaxation area or a perched hut, the diversity of projects will surprise you and inspire you. Generous in tips, tricks and photographs, this book also invites you to the kingdom of recovery: openwork hut in pallets, porthole sliced in a barrel...
"A little hut in my garden", Denise Crolle-Tersaghi, 96 pages. Rustica editions.