A cellar must be closed by a door that provides both security and ventilation. For this, the slatted doors are often retained. Especially since this type of gate is manufactured with a minimum of tools.
In a cellar, the ambient air is often confined. However, to keep wine in good conditions, this place must be able to breathe. The wine cellar should not be closed by a solid door as leakage, containment and lack of ventilation can cause mold. Not to mention the risk of contamination by the dry rot. This huge fungus grows in humid environments and causes wood rot. The model of slatted door remains the ideal solution to promote natural ventilation. Moreover, this model of disjointed slatted door can very well be imagined for other uses (buildings, annexes, gates...).
A simple, solid, well ventilated door
The choice fell on softwood boards of second choice (no matter the aesthetics here). But boards falling knots are still to avoid to ensure the strength of the whole. If the wood can be left raw, planing facilitates tracing operations.
The original treatment is enough. However, cutting-edge treatment may be useful to prevent rotting of the wood. Here, the door is made of boards 27 mm thick, joined together by ties of the same thickness. The two vertical edge strips are first bolted to the end of the three sleepers. The intermediate blades, arranged and spaced regularly between them, are simply nailed. If the door must have an anti-intrusion function, make sure to place the nuts on the inside, history to be able to mater the threading and to prevent disassembly from the outside.
Articulation on hinges
The edge of the door is notched on the joint side with a wood chisel to allow the fixing of the hinges. The same operation is performed in the frame (fixed element) to seal the male part of the hinges. This work can also be done at the router. Two rafters are sufficient to form the frame of the frame, a cleat forming the rabbet on the side of the closure.
An anchoring and a plaster or mortar sealing ensure the fixing of these two amounts. In a single house, a simple latch is suitable. On the other hand, in the basement of a collective building, it is necessary to install at least two padlocks, at best a lock. Different systems can then be implemented from the simple deadbolt lock to a multipoint model.
- Begin by simultaneously drawing the two side jambs of the door according to the height of the opening of the cellar.
- Proceed in the same way for the three sleepers.
- Saw three sleepers to the exact length corresponding to the width of the cellar door.
- For this, use a handsaw or radial saw.
- Temporarily assemble the lateral crossmember assembly using clamps.
- Drill them, before assembling them simply with bolts.
- Arrange the intermediate boards between the two side posts already fixed.
- Then, bolt with a spacer.
- Finally, nail or screw the boards on the sleepers.
- Once the assemblies are completed, trace and then saw the top and bottom of the door after having reported the ground level, as well as the profile of the ceiling.
- Draw the location of the hinges.
- Make the cuts with a chisel.
- Then screw the female hinges.
- Do the same for those of the frame.
- Seal with plaster all the brackets and the two rafters forming the fixed parts of the door (rafters of good section) on each side of the opening.
- After sealing, put the cellar door in place.
- Engage the hinges of the leaf on those fixed to the frame. Adjust if necessary.
- Instead of ordinary hex bolts, those with round heads and square collars can be used. They lock in the wood when tightening and are unmountable if we take the precaution to have their round head on the outside of the door.
- Place large washers on the side of the nuts to distribute the clamping force of the nuts. A pipe wrench allows optimal tightening of the nuts.