- You want to insulate your attic at € 1?
- A specific system of grooved profiles
- Resistant siding
- Integration of a pocket door
- Five tips for a successful pose
- Starting the drywall frame
- Fixing the wall jambs
- Dry wall: cutting and laying plates
- Passage of the electrical network in the plates
- Integration of the sliding door frame
- Info +
Easy to install, a drywall can also be insulating. Here it hosts a sliding beech door, which retracts into the thickness of the wall thanks to the integration of a special frame that makes the installation discreet.
Cost: about 50 € / m2 (partition only, chassis: 744 €, door: 700 €)
Time: 2 days
Equipment: meter, square, chalk line, large ruler, concrete drill and drills, hammer, drill, bit holder and screwdriver bit PZ No. 2, diamond saw, Ø 60 mm, miter saw, jigsaw, circular saw, folding bench, stepladder, stapler, scraper...
Drywall is a framework to be covered with drywall, ready to receive a finish. Thermal insulation and electrical ducts are easy to integrate into the thickness of the frame.
Same thing for the frame (Scrigno) of a communication door, including a pocket, like the model in beech (Rozière) installed on this site.
You want to insulate your attic at € 1?
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A specific system of grooved profiles
Most often metallic, the beams and studs of a framework can also be part of a specific system, such as these sections of 48 x 45 mm pine or chestnut laminated (Inno-Wood), which are used indifferently under form of amounts or reinforcements. Grooved, they assemble thanks to the tenons and mortises of their ends as well as to the special splints provided. These keys also make it possible to abut the shortened profiles, devoid of tenon and mortise. Pre-drilled at regular intervals, the profiles ensure the passage of electrical sleeves. Their implementation however has some peculiarities.
Standard plasterboard remains quite fragile. Increasing the impact strength of the partition is possible with thicker (BA15, 18, 25 mm) or standard (BA13) plates in double or triple thickness. High-hardness versions (Knauf KHD, Placodur...) or reinforced cement plates (Knauf USG Aquapanel, Fermacell Powerpanel H2O, Placocem) or plaster reinforced with cellulose fibers can also be used. The latter (Fermacell, with straight edges) are used here to separate a kitchen from a living room. The plates are easy to cut, shock resistant and compatible with heavy fasteners. Stapled, nailed or screwed into the frame, they are also glued edge to edge which dispenses to coat joints.
Integration of a pocket door
Wood-frame pocket door
Frame mounting on wood frame
|8||48 x 45 mm profiles|
Laying of the pocket
Metal frame pocket door
Frame mounting on metal frame
Five tips for a successful pose
- For all joints (profiles, keys, extensions) as well as the installation of the cladding (plates covering the framework), use anti-splitting screws Ø 3 mm (grooved point).
- To reduce the transmission of vibrations and improve sound insulation, lay the rails preferably on resilient strips. On the floor of a damp room, provide a waterproof tape or butyl seal.
- The profiles are available in 2.40 m (pine) and 2.60 m (chestnut). For ceilings longer than 2.60 m, use the longer ones as well as long keys and alternate assemblies.
- The spacing of the amounts depends on the width of the cladding faces, so that their junctions coincide exactly with the center of one amount out of two. For siding of 120 cm (standard width), provide a distance of 60 cm between amounts (4.5 cm of thickness), an interval of 55.5 cm (60 - 4.5 cm).
- Calculate the supplies needed for the framing using a table available on the manufacturer's website (inno-wood.com). It allows the doors to be counted and gives rounded results at the higher value, to increase by 5%.
Starting the drywall frame
Locate the location of the low rail on the ground, perpendicular to the starting wall.
Align it against the mark and drill the slab.
After drilling a hole every 60 cm, insert the dowels to hit with a screwdriver and a hammer.
Measure the smooth-ceiling height, cut an extension and temporarily assemble it with a key (C).
Drill the lengthened post against the support wall every 30 cm. Then fix it with pegs to hit.
Fixing the wall jambs
Remove the key to more easily fit the lug of the high rail in the extension of the upright.
Get help to support the other end of the arm.
Replace the key inside the starter post and its extension.
Reassemble as much as possible, down to the bottom of the upper arm then screw it on again.
One end of the high rail being held by the starting post, a light stay can support its other end.
Postpone the required interval to the second amount (60 cm).
Fit the latter in the upper arm and screw the 2 pieces together.
Thread a 30 cm key at the bottom of the upright and fix it.
Check the height of the upright and measure the length of the extension.
Cut out the extension from a fall (if possible at the miter saw).
Present and screw the extension onto the key.
Recheck the plumb of the upright and screw the key into the low rail.
After fixing the first amounts, screw a key at the end of the first high rail.
Thread the next bar on the key.
Support the high rail (amount, stay...) and screw it into its key.
Continue laying (every 60 cm) to the location of the door box.
Dry wall: cutting and laying plates
The first plate must be crossed by an electric sheath.
Mark the corresponding notch at the square and make it with a jigsaw.
Present the first plate, resized 10 mm shorter than the ceiling height. Lay it on shims of 10 mm.
Place a spirit level against the edge of the plate, in good contact with the wall.
Keep it steady (with the pliers) until it is fixed to the frame: by nailing, screwing or stapling (the fastest method).
Press the center of the plate (120 cm wide), if possible with a cleat, or as here directly with a spirit level, to keep it in contact with the frame during stapling on the uprights.
The plates are easy to cut with a guided circular saw (rail or ruler).
Wear a mask because of the release of dust.
In order to make the plates perfectly integral with their junctions, place a special bead of glue on the upper edge of the already laid plate.
Glue the top plate and then shave the excess after drying.
Wider than the interlocking between uprights, pack the insulation to insert it into the groove of the low rail.
Then staple on the height.
Passage of the electrical network in the plates
After fixing the insulation, pass the electrical sleeves from one amount to the other. They are left waiting in anticipation of the plugs and wall switches of the future kitchen.
Cut two holes (Ø 60 mm) at the hole saw for each multi-station recess box.
Then join the two holes with the jigsaw (or the saw with a window) and grind the edges of the cut with a rasp.
Even if the boxes are mounted later, try one of them to make sure it fits properly. Pass the sleeves.
If possible, use a construction laser (on a tripod) to locate the following box locations at the same height: along the entire length of the partition, or even around the room.
Integration of the sliding door frame
The frame takes place on a raised rail with spacers to match the finished ground level.
Add a mounting post on each side of the frame and check the plumb.
Oriented back to the frame (groove to the outside), its mounting amounts each receive at the top a vertical reinforcement. It allows to screw a crosspiece.
Reinforce the frame above the door with two sections of studs screwed to the center.
Re-cut and add the trim plates on one side and then the insulation. Do the same at the bottom.
Before starting the laying of the second "skin" (see Info +), place the position of its stiffeners on the right side of the door frame. Then extend the marks on the new plate and screw it into the stiffeners.
Apply a primer or undercoat on all surfaces.
Remove glue burrs with a scraper. There is no point in coating the joints.
Screw the suspension brackets and the rear stops. Install the door. Add the stopper.
Finish by adding the sleepers and studs around the opening.
Thicker than the frame, the frame of the door requires to compensate for the difference by adding a second "skin" on the entire surface of the partition, including frame. For now, the first skin stops flush with the frame, hence this plate cut in L.
• Chestnut frame profiles and keys
• dowel pins Ø 6 mm
• Anti-splitting screw Ø 3 x 35 mm
• Self-drilling screws (Fermacell) Ø 4 x 30 mm
• Gypsum board reinforced with cellulose fibers (Fermacell), special glue
• Thermal insulation (mineral wool, recycled cotton...)
• ICA-3321 sleeves and electrical conductors, flush-mounting boxes...
• Sliding door frame and plasterboard cladding
• Sliding door